Susu, that spray has so little sulphur that it will not do anything for diseases I don’t think. You need a lot of sulphur to get an effect. Get either liquid (e.g. Bonide liquid sulphur) or micronized powder. Since CAR need to go from apple to cedar and back, if you spray Immunox one year you can wreck the cycle and you can skip a year or two of Immunox.
mmm…as a matter of fact, right now that cedar tree is on the ground horizontally with its roots in the air. it was in our front yard and we are doing an addition to the house. When they dug the new foundation, the tree was in the way and we had it dug up and put aside. it’s been sitting there for few days now. I was going to wrap the roots in burlap and replant it next spring after the constructions. my husband likes that tree because it’s tidy and keeps its shape. Maybe I should get rid of it then… 
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Thank you. I will get Bonide instead.
Also, can you take a look at the link below? this is the same as Surround right?
No, you need to get the version designed for fruit trees, Surround WP. Here is my source (good shipping price)
Thanks.
That is an exceedingly optimistic diagnosis and difficult to verify because CAR outbreaks have so much to do with spring weather. This year pressure was so bad that for the first time I had pretty bad CAR on my Goldrush even though they received two sprays of myclo at the time that has been effective for about 24 straight seasons (let’s hope this isn’t resistance). .
If you can break the cycle just by stopping the infections on your own trees, my hunch is that you are in a relatively low pressure area. Suburbia can be that way- as long as none of your neighbors have infected apple (including crabs), amalanchier or other host species. I have amalenchier in my woods, so there is no way to break the cycle.
My clients that live in suburban areas of controlled landscapes dominated by turf seem to have less disease and insect pressure than those with wild land nearby. The toughest orchards for me to protect are in annually mowed meadows that are a huge fad on the estates where I work. Somehow, many of my clients associate wild flower meadows with orchards and there is this myth that these meadows will produce predators that will more than compensate for the pest populated habitat that meadows create.
Gardening is essentially war against nature, no matter how much you love and respect your enemy.
I know it’s been mentioned before but I didn’t see it in this thread. How warm does it need to be to spray copper. It was in the mid 40’s here today but dry and sunny. I wanted to spray but didn’t have time. Looking at the next few days it will reach 60 on Tuesday buy a chance of rain. I mainly want to hit the peach and nectarine trees but have heard I shouldn’t do it if it’s raining.
Speedster looks like you are having the same weather as me. I haven’t sprayed copper on my peach yet, waiting until Tuesday, Wednesday close to 2 " of rain passes. Not sure how warm it needs to be or how many days after rain I should wait before spraying. Let’s wait for somebody else to enlighten us…
It appears there are so many variables about when to spray what and how. Michigan state has very good write up on how to maximize fungicide spray.
Anyway, I don’t remember what the experts here said about the lowest temp.
For copper, my lowest temp To spray is in the low 40. I spray on a dry day and no rain within the 24 hours after spraying. My logic is, water is used as solution, the higher the temp above freezing, the better to spray.
Some may say as long as the spray is dry, it should stay on the tree even if rain arrives soon after that.
If you use pinene as a sticker, which is made from pine trees, think pine tar, it’s not going anywhere.
No sticker, yes it will wash off, but you guys are probably using oil, I do not, I use lime sulfur with oil. Not copper, I use copper with a sticker. I use copper in late winter I prefer sulfur this time of year. I like to hit them with both, and is how I do it. I like to mix it up, different modes of action, etc, I think is a good idea. I do the same for brown rot using two, not one fungicide, and alternate applications. Both are effective against brown rot, but use different modes of action to kill the fungus. If some strains of brown rot survive one, the other will get them. So far it’s worked well with little to no brown rot. I have never seen peach leaf curl, ever, either.
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I would suggest adding monitoring for bugs to really get your timing down. Though this year I ended up losing enough fruit to June drop that I was able to bag everything before the second generation of CM.
Apple Pink Bud: Hang Codling Moth Traps for monitoring CM biofix. If you are using spinosad, I would do this. It doesn’t have a long residual, so you want to hit the growing degree day window spot on. If you are using synthetic chemicals, this method would also reduce the number of sprays you need to put on.
The NEWA site can also help tracking GDD if you have a site close-by. NEWA - Apple Insects
If it wasn’t god-awful expensive and only available in the concentrated quart+ volume, I would use Spinetoram for the increased half-life (Delegate WG). It is chemically modified Spinosad (not organically approved). The modification increases its lifetime on the tree and its toxicity to the target moth pests.
There are also traps for oriental fruit moth for peaches. I haven’t noticed any flagging on my peach tree, so I don’t worry about OFM. I have also heard that it isn’t present in my area.
Speed,
I’m not aware of any minimum temperature threshold for spraying copper, at least as far as potentially damaging the trees. If spraying oil with copper, I have read of minimum temps for oil, but I believe Alan has mentioned he’s sprayed oil below freezing with no problems. Perhaps he will clarify if I remember correctly. I know we’ve discussed it on the forum in some detail at some point.
Alan,
I think amelanchier gets a different strain of rust than affects apples. Agree with your larger point that there can, and frequently are, many hosts to spread CAR near wooded areas (i.e. wild crabs) just not sure amelanchier is one of them.
http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/cedarapplerust.pdf This is where I got my info, which misled me to believe Amelanchier was in the mix- it is not very well written, IMO, but has a lot of info if you read CAREFULLY.
However, this may be true- “Quince and hawthorn can substitute for the apples as hosts” unless Wiki is mistaken in their info about CAR. I don’t have time this morning to check on other sources. Around here, Quince is pretty common as an ornamental. Of course, most suburban sites have susceptible crab apple varieties nearby anyway, and CAR can travel quite a distance in the right weather.
Thank you for straightening that out- you saved me from permanently storing a piece of misinformation from my informational storage cabinet of declining space.
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Ok so today I was going to take the first step to edible fruits and spray copper on my trees. Went outside with my stuff and noticed its kinda windy. 50 degrees sunny but windy. Tomorrow 46 degrees no wind but 70% chance of rain at night about 0.15 inches. So I guess just showers. Should I spray today when it’s windy or should I do it tomorrow even though rain at night?
I won’t be able to do it until next weekend otherwise and I don’t want to put it off too much.
Unless you had peach leaf curl last year why not wait until early spring. Even if you did, a single spring app usually works well enough.
Bringing this thread back up with a follow up question. As you saw from the pictures I have mottled spots on twigs. When will they disappear? Does the winter kill the fungus and they disappear or will they go away after I spray the trees? If so how soon after can I see it’s working?
May want to consider adding oil to the dormant copper sprays. It’s inexpensive and helps get the copper into all the cracks. Also, several types of organic oils are available if that is important.
@Susu,
After I sprayed copper+oil+Nufilm today, I thought about new members who may want to know about spray program for their fruit trees.
Thus, I revived this thread. You asked good questions and got a lot of very good answers. Hope people who are new to spraying would benefit from reading this thread.
By the way, have you sprayed yet?
@galinas, have you been able to get your first spray of the season in yet?
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I sprayed copper only, decided to do neem next Saturday, when it is going to be warmer.
Ah…the good ol’ days when I tried to grow no spray fruit! 
Yes I did spray copper this spring but I’m going to do it again as soon as weather allows because my first spray was a very weak mix. I’m going to do it again just to be on the safe side. I also upgraded to Kocide 3000 this year so I’m hoping it’ll work noticeably better.
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