Do you have a favorite among those feijoa?
Do you give any protection to the Chilean Guava?
Do you have a favorite among those feijoa?
Do you give any protection to the Chilean Guava?
Haha! It is an addiction! I started on 1/16th of an acre but when I planted 2 fuzzy kiwi, I realized I was running out of space so we made the plunge.
For strawberries, I enjoy one called Whopper. It is really big and taste great but it needs to be weed free to really perform. Iāll confess that most of ours are planted in one big strawberry bed and have really grown together so I have a hard time distinguishing one from another. I usually like the taste better of the June bearing than the everbearing but I have both so we can have a long harvest.
For blueberries, my favorites are Spartan, Pink Lemonade, Sunshine Blue, Bountiful Blue and Patriot. There are lots of other great ones but these have all been prolific and do great here. If you donāt want to fuss with soil PH, Sunshine Blue is famous for being more tolerant of higher PH than typical blueberries. Being in rainy Western Washington, Iāve never tested for soil PH and never had problems. They do seem to fruit heavier with good moisture.
My most reliable peach has been Frost. I do spray and still get some PLC on the other cultivars. The best Peach Iāve ever grown flavor-wise was Flavor Top but it did take a consistent PLC spray.
This reminds me that I donāt think Iāve shared photos on here of my little Chilean guava bush after our freeze. Mine was unprotected other than any snow cover, and looks like it just got burned a little on the top bits, but plenty of healthy leaves still:
So far, my best has been Mammoth. Followed by Cooledge and then Nikita. Nikita has been really small so far but still tasty. I have protected some of the Chilean Guava plants that are exposed in the past but nothing more than a bit of Remay. Iāve never lost one entirely but I have had them cut back close to the ground. My tallest is about 3ā tall and wide. I didnāt protect them at all this year as I had over 12" of snow so they were call tucked in under the snow cover. Anything that stuck out did get cut back but most of the bush was under cover. Even the tallest one was weighted down enough to be mostly protected. There will be some dead branches but most of the structure is fine.
cdamarjian, will you please share your almonds under cover set up? Does it completely eliminate PLC? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for starting this thread! Iām just outside Vancouver, WA and enjoy growing fruit here. Although, after last summer Iāll be using more shade cloth than Iād have anticipated previously.
In my small yard there are:
Apples - Liberty, Wynotchee Early, columnar Urban Red
Plums - Bavayās Gage, Early Laxton, Coeās Golden Drop
Persimmon - Saijo
Fig - Olympian
Elderberry - Ranch, Nova
Blueberries - Draper, Duke, Earliberry, Legacy, Spartan
Currants - Jonkheer Van Tets, Glorie de Sablons
Lingonberries - various
Grapes - Interlaken
And more to come, eventually.
Any under cover setup will completely protect peaches, almonds, and nectarines from PLC. Since the fungal spores need wet conditions to germinate, covering the trees between November (after leaves have fallen) and mid-May will prevent infection. But, from experience, even a pinhole overhead opening will cause nearby leaves to curl! Covering does not need to be complete, just overhead and halfway down sides.
My preferred structure is salvaged EMT-type pipe with purchased connectors to make a shed or gable structure. Structure can be covered with heavy plastic sheeting (inexpensive), bubble wrap (this fitted ghouse wrap was on sale last year), or Solexx (pretty expensive). Of course, in the end, your peaches are way more $$$ compared to buying a box in July from Yakima, Washington!
Hi webfoots! I live in Portland, and grow:
Yuzu ichandrin, in sheltered south-facing spot outdoors
Autumn Olive āAmberā (Eleagnus), though looking to rehome it
Asian Pear āChojuroā, trained to Ann Ralphās āGrow a Little Fruit Treeā method. Looking to rehome it because I donāt have enough sun for it.
Asian persimmon Ichi Ki Kei Jiro, used mesh fruit bags with success
Desert King fig
Raspberries Cascade Delight & Honey Queen
Mystery yellow (Gage?) plum grafted to Krymsk1 rootstock and trained to āGrow a Little Fruit Treeā size
Silverberries
Chilean guavas
Pineapple guava, grown for edible flowers, not fruit
Evergreen huckleberries
Persian mulberry
Annual veggies, self-sowing greens
Future: Maybe grapes
Geeshā¦ i need 4.5 more acres.
Do you have problems fruiting the feijoa. Iāve recently learned of a farm in Hillsboro called Vial Farm that has āu pickā feijoa operation. I called and they told me they grow varieties nametz, nakita, takara and Coolidge all with great fruiting success.
For your citrus are you familiar with the sudachi? A sweeter less seedy fruit than ichandrin.
Have you watched Bob Duncanās videos on growing citrus in British Columbia?
Im in kitsap.
Apples, E/J plum, pluot, pluerry, asian pear, pear, persimmon, jujube, olive, sweet cherry, mulberry, peach, almonds, currents, gooseberry, elderberry, blueberry, honeyberry, raspberry, strawberry, pineapple guava, kumquat, limes, lemons, oranges, capers, paw paw, sea berry, goumi, autumn olive for nitrogen.
chilian guava, Cornelius cherry (probably butchered the spelling of these last two)
Hello I live in Vancouver Washington I grow apples, pears, plums, blueberries, blackberries and raspberries, figs and grapes, will be planting some gooseberries this year.
Capers! I need to hear more!
I saw capers listed in Wanderlustās plant catalog, but convinced myself it was one of those things Iād never bother to harvest or prepare. Iād love to hear success stories to convince me otherwise!
im new here and forgot this was a fruit forum - ha but I made a circle of alternating lavender and caper around my olive tree. Raintree and OGW sell them or at-least sold them. I planted them this time last year. Little things. They didnāt grow that great but they did flower. hoping they take off this year and maybe next year they would be big enough to try to harvest and cure. I also grow saffron - that does great here.
Itās 4x4x9ā. Iāve attached grommets to bottom edge to wrap to frame. Can be taken down in Mayā¦ But have to keep branches tied up to fit!
SE Portland. Quince, feijoa, rhubarb,and caneberries.
Hello, Iām Paul from Willapa in SW Washington near the coast and Willapa Bay. Iām trying to establish a somewhat modified food forest with fruiting trees and shrubs scattered over a 15 acre area surround by timber forest land and bordered on two sides by creeks. My emphasis thus far is heavy on apples, plums, figs blueberries, grapes, and persimmons along with several other odds and ends. My intent was to share with friends and wildlife, but the wildlife donāt seem too keen on sharing. I am particularly interested in apple varieties developed by Albert Etter and have obtained several thus far. It seems that a regional forum could be really useful.
have you considered some pomegranate. there are varieties that do well in the Willamette valley. It really depends how close to the coast you are. If you are too close for pomegranate you are probably close enough for yuzu to be less impacted by inland cold. As far as figs I have clones from the most prolific producer Iāve ever seen in Oregon. Itās a green fig when ripe and yields thousands of figs. The tree is very old and about 20ā across. I have 20 clones for people if they want them.