Pawpaw Varieties


#121

So question to any Pawpaw expert, I have two trees that are a cultivar from Miller Nursery, “BT130 PAWPAW”. Any idea what the real name might be?


#122

Vincent, would you be interested in sharing a little pollen with me? I have two trees of the same cultivar, so they don’t pollinate.


#123

Hi Andy. I don’t have any experience how to save or transfer pollen to far away
I just offering to some one in my local areas only. Sorry for that.


#124

These should do very well in Seattle. I saw several Paw paws in Mt.Vernon loaded with fruit. They are much colder than here.


#125

Really good news to me ramv. I am so happy. Thank you so much.


#126

Thanks, I’ll keep looking and hopefully find some before the blossoms turn from female to male…


#127

Wells pawpaw leaf out nicely.


#128

Just be careful. Pawpaw and mulberry do NOT like to be transplanted. The roots are very fragile and sensitive.

Pawpaw are natural understory trees and can survive fine in crowded conditions.

I understand your wish to give them more space to thrive, but just be careful. Sometimes a slow growing pawpaw is better than a dead pawpaw.


#129

I’ve dug up one year old pawpaw seedlings in the wild and gotten them to live…dug with my fingers. No tools even. (Kinda like digging ginseng).


#130

Yeah, I know… but they really needed to move. Hopefully they will pull through. I will know for sure in a few weeks.


#131

Needs a bit of nutrition/or shade cloth if in mostly sun/full sun, Vincent. The yellowing of the leaves is an indicator.

Newly planted pawpaws in mostly sun to full sun need shade cloth for 2-3 years and after that they are good to go and actually grow better in sun.

As for nutrients if sun is not the case, just a dash of granular fertilizer will help or Miracle Grow for example until the leaves green up.

Dax


#132

Ozymandias,
I uprooted a pawpaw this spring and moved it also. I tried to keep the root ball and dig as deep as I could to keep the taproot. I failed at this and pretty much had a bare root tree when I planted it in its new hole. The new spot is pretty shady and the tree has never looked better. Hopefully yours are doing well too.


#133

Thank you Dax.
I dont know how often i sbould water them.
In Seattle a lot of cloudy day. I will more careful to take care of them as your advice. Really appreciated Dax.


#134

I just looked up Seattle’s average rainfall as compared to where I live in VA where paw paws grow natively and was surprised to see we get more rain in Fairfax County VA (about 42"/year) than you do in Seattle (about 37"/year).

Still, those numbers are awfully close and I wouldn’t think a paw paw in Seattle would need much if any watering. I would just make sure you water occasionally if you get a long hot stretch with no rain, and even then once they are established they should be fine with little to no care.


#135

The Summers in the Seattle area are usually almost a drought situation.The rainy time is from November to April. Brady


#136

Hi Vincent,

If your multiple pawpaws are in full sun or all day afternoon sun then you need to put a shade cloth in front of them on the south side while they are growing. You can take away the shade cloth of course once the leaves have fallen off.

You shouldn’t over water them or any of your woody plants either fruiting or ornamental. Woody plants like to dry out somewhat between waterings. It could be the case that the yellowing is too much water. It could be a lot of reasons and another is poorly drained soil. In that instance the roots are standing in a puddle and rotting and yellowing is the effect.

I don’t see burn but take my advice if each are in a sunny spot. And it still isn’t a bad idea contrary to what many folks believe to throw a bit of fertilizer on from time to time. I would do so if I saw yellowing like that and if I was over watering I would simply cut back.

It’s up to you now to decide how to proceed.

Do what you think’s right.

Dax
P.s. after mid-August you should stop fertilization. It is okay to fertilize when the trees go dormant and you definitely know that winter has begun with a fertilizer with low nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium. You won’t need to do that every year but it’s probably a real good idea to do so the first year.


#137

Thank you so much Dax.
This is first time planting pawpaw i need a lot of advice.
Thank again. Will updating later. Vincent.


#138

Early fruiting forming of my sunflower pawpaw


#139

I received a bunch of seedling pawpaws from the Missouri conservation commission and I had heard people say they had poor survival from transplanted seedlings from them. So I planted them in rows, about 4" apart one row about 15 feet long in one location and one row about 4 long in another. I was figuring that I’d pick a few winners from whatever few survived. Whoops, they all survived.

So now I’m planning on grafting to known varieties and seeing which grafts take and grow well and culling out the weaker or failed grafts. I’ll just cut off the “loosers” at the soil line and cut them back again and again if they re-sprout until they give up.

So I’m wondering if people have had luck T-budding pawpaw or if I need to wait until dormant grafting time and use whip and tongue, etc. Thoughts?

If I can T-bud, maybe I can find some bud wood from someone locally this summer.


#140

I have good luck chip buding and whip and tounge .
Best on strong root,but you have little to lose by trying.
Either they will take or not, you will still have the rootstock to try again