Peach graft update

I have a handful of possible takes:

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I haven’t done my peach grafts yet. April has been unusually cold. Next week looks promising though.

I’ve held off also Susu. No period of warm weather since peaches woke up.

Congrats Bryan on peach graft taking.

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I’m just south of you, and there was one five day period that was decent, and I used it.

Still, I only have 4 of 15 I feel moderately confident about, and 3 more I’m at least skeptically confident about. So best case is still under 50% success.

This was top working (bark and cleft grafts), not grafting to young rootstock.


6 of 8 takes on Ernie’s Choice:
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Only 1 of 7 Glenglo (a possible second)


Bottom pic is hard to see. One pushing bud at the base of the scion closest to my hand.

I did Glenglo first, then EC.

I got better at making my cuts as I went along, which makes me think that might be the reason why the EC is doing so much better.


Actually getting some Glenglo takes. Need to re-parafilm the top of one.


14 of 15 Scions now pushing.


Great stuff, Bryan.

Cut back to the most-vigorous bud, or, rub off the growth on the others if they’re lower on the scion. Get your stakes in place! In 1-second a bird could rob you of a graft. You need some tall stakes electrically taped to your scaffolds where a graft is growing.

Since you did it right, using multiple scions at each location the scaffold branch should heal entirely. What I’m saying is the other grafts will allow all the xylem and phloem to conduct normal business. Here’s the opposite when the entire ring around the top of a graft doesn’t callus all the way around.

Good job, Bryan!


And the side that stayed alive. This cleft-type graft needed (2) scions or (1) larger. You allow both to callus in, select the dominant bud on each as I stated while removing the others (you can keep two but pinch the other back at 1/2 or so and it will develop a bud as your back-up) should anything happen between now and later.

Had I had (2) scions in place, the full circle around this rootstock would have callussed and the dead side would still be supplying the xylem and phloem for the remainder of this (pear) tree’s life. Now, it’s gotta engulf itself and grow around all that dead area which will of course rob the tree of valuable resources, and, time.




I only have one graft not taking. It’s one of two on a cleft graft, but the stock is fairly thin so hopefully it heals ok anyway.


Congratulations, for peaches that percentage is awesome!


Now if it would just warm up enough for them to grow a little faster.

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Dax, my cuts weren’t great in my mind, especially for tempermental peaches.

For the cleft grafts, the clefts themselves were fine. The scions typically had one “good side” of the cut, so that worked out OK, since you only get contact on one side.

For the bark grafts, I felt good about the bark flap cut, but the scionwood was sketchy getting a good, straight cut, but it seemed to work.

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Yep, I keep telling people ‘bark grafting is so-so easy.’

It’s totally forgiving.


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I can’t even tell how you get cambium contact, but it works.

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pretty easy stuff


So Dax, I accidentally snagged one of my scions on my sleeve and broke it. I didn’t break the callous, it snapped off above that. So I assume it should still help the wood callous around the full circle like you were saying. Thankfully, the scion with the strongest growth is still intact.

Only one of three scions (Glenglo peach) on this bark graft ended up being a “true” take. One shriveled and one snapped off.

This one is growing out well. However, while the scaffold I used as a stock is at a good angle, the shoot itself is growing exactly 90°, straight vertical/

Should I try to bend it down somehow? Or hope it throws a side branch I can cut back to in order to force a better growth angle for the new Glenglo “scaffold”?

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