OK, I’ll find another spot. So should I cut the limb back to the IF to provide the most for it? As I stated above, I don’t think the IF took off since it’s on the shady side of the tree and I let it grow a peach on it last year to make sure it was IF.
Been wondering about this… here’s a pic (the first one) of a failed graft on my cherry tree last year. I made the mistake that we are talking about here. But noticed how the other 2 shoots below it are so close to it. They shot out just last year. Now contrast that with the other picture of my peach. Notice how far the cut is from my IF graft from a couple years ago. This gives me at least some hope that cutting close to the IF may in fact work after all, so it’s at least worth a shot. Then again, perhaps there’s a real significant difference between cherries and peaches where what I’m planning isn’t going to work.
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There is no harm in trying. I would say the odds are still reasonably good. The IF will compete with the graft but its small. And the sap flow will still be pretty good close to the IF.
I should generally clarify that while I think it helps to behead things right before grafting, its not the most critical thing on most fruits, and even on peaches I have done pretty well not doing that. So, I would recommend doing it when feasible but not going out of the way to do it. Another thing I do sometimes is a partial beheading, take off most of the tree but leave a couple feet and some shoots. Then finish it off at topworking time.
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I began my grafting “career” after I had partially cut down an apple tree, intending to cut down the tall stump when I felt like getting my chain saw. Never got around to it and instead grafted a year later after it had sent out extremely vigorous growth (didn’t seem to be any lag in its return growth- but that was a long time ago). Grafting on a few of those super-charged one year shoots (nearly branches) proved so successful that most of my grafting has been on vigorous one year wood since. It is the vigor of these grafts that has forced me to use hinges more than anything else, because the grafts get big so fast they can get away from you. By the time you realize it they would snap if you tried to bring them to more horizontal position without a hinge.
Question: Is there any chance for a peach grafting to take if the budwood used is not dormant? I realize it might be a little late in the season, but hoping to Bark graft Evas Pride peach to an August Pride hopefully, any thoughts ? Here the weather is creeping into mid 80s. I have successfully grafted other varieties before, albeit with dormant wood and when trees were starting to wake up.
- A separate question, would plum scionwood graft and take on a peach ?
Zone 9 A, Houston Texas.
Thank you much in advance!
Peaches with non-dormant budwood is not going to succeed. You are better off waiting a month or two for some new buds to be produced and budding them. Apples and pears I have gotten to work if the buds are starting to extend, but even that often is a fail.
I have never grafted plums to peaches… it is supposed to work in some cases. I graft apricots to peaches, that usually works (but the one I am trying this spring so far is not – I might need to graft it on another apricot).
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This is a pretty old thread. I looked back at some of the comments. I think we all have more grafting experience (and confidence) under our belt now.
Imo, Scott’s comment about waiting a bit and summer budding is the best advice since you are down in Houston. That’s how all the southern nurseries do it. Here is a video with Bob Anderson explaining how to summer bud. The video is long, but very thorough. Bob Anderson was a distinguished horticultural professor at Cornell, MSU and Clemson. During his career he was a recognized expert in stone fruit breeding and culture. I mention so you know this isn’t some random youtube video by an amateur.
If the wood you are grafting is too big, you will have to try chip budding. Otherwise you should be able to T bud. Also, being in Houston, you’ll want to try to do it before it gets smokin hot. Temps above 90F aren’t good for summer budding.
Yes it will. A century ago, all Euro plums were grafted on peach roots. When I was growing plums, I grafted all Euro plums on peach with good results. Just make sure you have very good drainage, as peach roots don’t like overly wet soil, at all.
I always planted the grafted tree below the graft, so the plum portion would have a chance to root out. I can’t remember if the plum portion of the grafts rooted out or not. But my thinking in planting the graft below the soil line was because peaches are known to be much shorter lived than Euro plums.
Asian plums also do well on peach roots.
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Chipping in my 2 cents on Mark’s reply about plums on peach. My experience is that plums take very well to peach. In fact, plums are so vigorous on peach that a plum graft will out grow it’s neighboring peach branches considerably requiring careful attention to pruning to keep the plum in check. Interestingly, most of my plum grafts have fruited the following year from grafting. Here are some pictures:
Dapple Dandy and Friar on Rio Oso Gem peach:
Empress, Coe’s Goldendrop, Petite D’Agen, and Vision on Indian Free peach:
A bunch of European and Asian plums on O’Henry peach:
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Really appreciate this information! Did about 15 chip buds of Evas Pride peach on August Pride peach today as well as Bark grafted dormant Hollywood and Mariposa plums onto the August Pride peach. (My Scarlet beauty plum somehow died on me after the unusual freeze this year. That as a result left me with only my peaches to graft the budwood that I had obtained in winter)
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Thank you for this information with pictures of growth, very encouraging i have to say and BEAUTIFUL Yard and how it’s landscaped…
Please keep us informed. I have a low success rate with grafting peaches so I’m very interested in your success considering the warm temperatures.
I’ve wrapped the chip buds with aluminum foil and the then the bark grafts I wrapped with moistened single sheet of paper towel wrapped around scionwood and then double bagged with clear plastic bags inorder to keep moisture inside. This helps budwood from drying out. Then loosely tied plastic bags to the original tree with string . This method for bark grafting worked well for me with Persimmons, pear, apple and figs. Bud growth was achieved in 12-15 days with moisture. First time trying on peaches, hopefully will have success and grafts will take.
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Thanks Deric!
Impressive yard and trees! Which rootstock do you have on the peaches?
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They are all on Lovell.
I grafted successfully Santa Rosa to peach.
The graft grew Abt 4’ first year, then plums second ripened second year on plum Scion grafted to peach.
My question - will the reverse work?
Graft same peach to Santa Rosa?
thanks!
Plums are extremely vigorous on peach. All of my results are like yours - vigorous growth the first year followed by fruit the second year. Unfortunately, I have no experience with peach on plum root.
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Kevin
I’ll let you know how things turn out.
I grafted Peach to Santa Rosa today.
I don’t have high success grafting peaches, so I hope the results aren’t determined by bad technique, instead of compatibility.
It seems logical (without any data to confirm) that if Santa Rosa can be successfully grafted to peach, then the reverse may be true, or is that too simplistic?
Comments welcome!
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My success rate with peaches is low as well. Plums do very well and apricots do well also. Peaches are difficult. I wish you lots of success Fran.
@Franp @SpokanePeach I have only grafted 1 peach onto a plum rootstock. Don’t know what kind of peach it was but was put on wild Chickasaw plum. Has had vigorous growth. This is its 3rd year and the first time it has fruited.
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