Starting to wonder if I got bad scionwood. I would think even a failed graft would be trying to wake up. At least the Apple.
Most of my pluots and plums grafts showed green leaves now after two weeks.
That makes me feel a bit better, but it’s been in the 70s most of this week. Just on temperature alone, I’m surprised nothing is happening after a week.
What have your temps been like?
I grafted at 60 degrees for a week and a half and the last few days in the upper 40s. Warming up on Monday again in the upper 60s.
I’m not sure about that. I did a William’s Pride Apple graft more than a week ago. The wood was as fresh as it comes since I harvested from my other tree and grafted within 10 minutes. I haven’t seen any movement on those yet.
Apples are slower than stone fruits can be. My apples are only now showing micro signs of movement and they were done before yours.
On the other hand peaches I grafted last Saturday already have a few starting to move! There were only a couple days of good weather but it was absolutely perfect with relatively warm nights due to clouds moving in.
One of the problems with peach wood is it goes bad quicker than other wood. So if there is nothing after two weeks it is time to get concerned.
So if the stock directly below the scion is pushing green buds (on apple), I should remove those?
Yes. If the stock is huge you can leave a few of those on but on a smaller stock I remove them all. And keep removing them after the graft gets going!
Be patient. Sooner or later you will find out.
You also will find out, too, that after a graft leafs out, it could wilt and die a few weeks later. And after it grow swell one year, it could die the next year. And after, it grows, flowers and fruits, it could still die a year or two after that due to delayed grafting compatibility.
How do I know this? I have firsthand experience of them all. Relax and see how things go and grow.
The main concern I have is that the one of the Apple grafts is on the central leader of the tree. I’m trying to make a multi-variety tree.
I have been plopping off any buds below the scion…so if it fails, I may not have a leader.
Apples grafts are easy takes as long as you wrap a graft union tightly. Lots of time grafts fail because new grafters are afraid to wrap the union tightly.
In about a week if you still see no movement I would let one bud grow out on the stock as your insurance policy.
I looked at my apples this evening and maybe 1/3 of them are going. Its only micro movement and the kind of thing I would not have realized was a take when I started. Now I know exactly where the first growth will start and how it will distort the Doc Farwells etc.
Yup! Not definite yet but nearly so there.
My apples really took off today with the warm weather, the vast majority of the grafts are moving. Peaches are maybe 1/4th moving now.
On the peaches I can see the effect of wood quality, I grafted different varieties together to give me lots of options and the same varieties are taking first in the different places… its not the location, its the scionwood. The wood also looked better on these when I started. Harvesting vigorous scoinwood is important on peach and not as much on other things except perhaps persimmon.
The recent cold spell caused the peach grafts to stall. That is not a good thing as they can’t be stalled for too long before they give up. Some look like they have resumed growth but I would not be surprised if it did in a bunch of things.
Started grafting about 4 weeks ago as my trees were leafing out and the weather still a little cool, so perhaps I was too early. Nonetheless, my four grafts on an Asian pear are all leafing out. The peach and nectarine grafts don’t look promising. One toothpick sized graft pushed two blossoms which I removed thinking they would sap energy from the graft, but nothing more happened. I did a few side grafts that I knew were challenging and one has taken an looks healthy. The rest of my bark and whip and tongue grafts are not doing anything. Perhaps the price I pay for not waiting for warmer weather. I still have scions in the fridge and hopefully I can get something going.
As I recall from past years I started grafting early and had 90-95% success with apples and at least 50% on plums/pluots. Grafting Peaches and Nectarines have always been frustrating for me. I hope grafting in warmer weather does the trick.
My early peaches and Nectarines have finished blooming and I have started thinning fruit.
Peaches: 10 takes out of 12
Apricots: 9 out of 18 (4 are showing blooms opening, so I am not counting them as takes yet)
I will not consider anything a failure till a month passes by.
Very high peach take rate. Did you do cleft, WnT, or else?
All cleft grafts, but I modify it cutting the scion to a T shape rather than an “inverted triangle”. The second modification is that I make the part of the scion to be inserted in the understock’s cleft about 2-4” long and 1-3 mm thick, so as to maximize the chances of cambium contact. Other than that, I followed Scott’s recommendation to do it when the temperature is in high sixties to high seventies.
Warning : Making the T shape involves moving the blade with one hand towards the other hand that is holding the scion, which is very dangerous, requiring ultimate care and attention. I also strongly recommend cut resistant gloves.
Late last spring I grafted peaches.
May have been to hot.?
In late summer I put chip buds in some,
They all appear to have taken, most are pushing growth