Brown rot is definitely in southeast missouri
I donât play music, I sing to them.
Gotta try that, but my voice probably lacks your magic.
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I threaten them, walk around with chain saws and axes.
Yeah, but you also have to spray for BR.
Yeah maybe I should, try honey instead of vinegar? I canât sing, but I could play them some vegetable songs?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTG4WohsMPw
I believe the peaches would prefer the peach song:
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I am getting ready to order my first batch of Surround WP for next year (never used surround before). I have somewhere between 30 to 40 fruit trees. Most are 1 to 2 years old so relatively small. Maybe 5 are medium sized peach tress with 1 towards the large size (15 ft wide 15 ft tall peach). Roughly 20 are peaches, 10 Apples, 4 Pears, 2 Cherries and a plum in there somewhere.
Plus my father has another 20 plus trees on his farm. His trees are a mix in size but none large as the soil is very poor.
How many pounds of Surround do you need per tree per season? I will spray Surround after petal drop through Japanese Beetle season - Somewhere from end of March through middle to end of July, Zone 7A - Piedmont area of Virginia,
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Has anyone tried bagging there fruit on the tree as an alternative to spraying? Thinking about trying these bags from Clemson Univ next year on some of my fruit.,
https://www.clemson.edu/extension/peach/commercial/diseases/clemsonfruitbags.html
Anyone have a better source for bags?
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Sud,
The most recent thread on this forum is called The Bagging Starts". People posted their bagging methods and comments including Clemson papaer bags.
Please check it out.
I know this thread is old but I am trying to plan for my spray program next year. This is what I am looking at using - I would like advice/comments.
- Spraying Copper at Thanksgiving and once before green tip for peaches. apple, pears and plums. This is what I plan to buy -
- For my larger peach trees I plan on using Imidan 70 (yes I know I said I wouldnât previously) starting after petal fall, when the peaches/apples/plums/pears reach nickel size. Is there any limit on the number of applications of Imidan? I plan on spraying for 6 weeks for PC. I believe 3/4 tablespoon = .12 ounces which means 4 ounces should allow me to spray 32 gallons. Do you spray the whole tree or just the fruit?
- For my smaller trees I plan on using Permethrin .36 starting after petal fall, when the peaches/apples/plums/pears reach nickel size. The Permethrin I am using now is Martins .10. The Martinâs bottle states that it can be applied 8 times to peaches, 3 to apples. Is this limit on the number of applications due to the chemical being toxic to the tree if applied to much or the fruit being unsafe to eat because of to much chemicals? Many of smaller trees will not produce or should not be allowed to produce. I plan on spraying for 6 weeks for PC.
https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_39&products_id=426
- For trees on my fathers farm I plan on using Surround WP starting after petal fall, when the peaches/apples/plums/pears reach nickel size. I plan on using Surround WP all season on his farm. My only concern about WP is will the power clog my Chapin Battery operated backpack sprayer? If not which backpack sprayer works good with Surround?
- After the 6 weeks is over the next bug threat that I am aware of is the yearly Japanese Beetle infestation, which usually starts the first week of June in central Virginia. This year I sprayed I Permethrin .10. Since I do not want to make fruit or trees toxic from to much Permethrin I will switch to Malathion and/or Carbaryl. The Japanese Beetles usually last through the end of July early August.
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/bonide-malathion-50e-concentrate-p-3615.html
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sevin-1-Gal-Concentrate-Bug-Killer-100047722/202102053
- For a fungicide I plan on using Myclobutanil , Eagle 20EW. The Eagle 20EW seems to be a much higher concentration of Myclobutanil than Immunox - anyone have an opinion on which I should use - pro/cons? Can Myclobutanil be mixed with Imidan, Malathion and Carbaryl? What is a good alternative to Myclobutanil as I do not want my trees to become resistant to Myclobutanil?
https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=21_46&products_id=478
I do not think what I have listed above will cover 1 pest I may have and one fungus issue. I may have one Plum tree with Peach Borers (I could not find the holes this year, so may be canker) and I have peach scab on on my Elberta PC damaged peaches. I donât think Myclobutanil is listed for Peach scab.
I am also going to try bagging some fruit - ordered the Clemson University bags -
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/peach/commercial/diseases/clemsonfruitbags.html
Any feedback/comments/alternative suggestions would be appreciated on the chemicals/approachâŚ
Thanks,
Spuddaddy
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Your description of spraying after petal fall sounded like too far after. With poison you apply it as soon as petals fall, although you may be able to delay first flowering species and wait until the last drops petals if your pests behave there like my pests do in the southern NY area. Also, Imidan probably has more kickback than any other pesticide on plum curculio. With Surround, you probably have less a window and probably should put it down as soon as first species drop petals and just spray everything then.
I would not use Imidan more than 2 or 3 times in a season. Buy some Assail or some more benign formula to protect against later pests if you can.
Of course Eagle is more concentrated than Immunox- it is packaged for the commercial applicator- mainly tree care companies. Rally is packaged for commercial fruit growers and gives you a more âwholesaleâ price than either.
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I can say from experience using a similar product (Cueva repackaged by Bonide) that Liquid-Cop will not be effective against peach leaf curl. I have used it the last two years, and sprayed it twice in fall and twice in spring this year. I still had terrible PLC on my Redhaven, which is reportedly tolerant of PLC (I think that means it doesnât suffer complete defoliation).
You need something stronger for PLC. Either Kocide 3000 or chlorothalonil.
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Ok so I will switch to Kocide 3000 -
https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/kocide-3000-fungicide-4-pounds-387
I am a backyard grower - what rate do you spray per gallon. The label shows the highest application rate for peaches and apples at 3.5-7.0 lbs.per acre. No idea what that equals per gallon.
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Hi Alan, I understand the need to spray a fungicide before petal fall, but I am unsure about the need to spray for insects prior to fruit formation (lets say nickel size). When can plum curcuilo damage occur? The only reason I am challenging you on this is that if I should only apply Imidan 3 times in a season and that is every 10 days than I have 30 days worth of coverage. If it rains I assume I need to reapply in between rains and I have less coverage. My goal was to have Imidan coverage for 6 weeks. Is my logic wrong (likely is 
) Maybe I need to do as you say and spray Imidan directly after petal fall and after 3 applications switch to Permethrin. As far as surround goes I will spray as soon as petal fall as you suggested.
One of the reasons I am using Permethrin, Imidan, Surround and bags is that I want to compare the effectiveness of all But I also want to get undamaged peaches off of some of my trees after the pc disaster I had this year. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
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Spud,
If you look at the top right hand corner on this page, youâll see a few symbols there.
Click on the symbols of the three small lines.
It will show all of the categories
Click on the Guides category
Then, click on the Spray Amount Guide.
It will have the info of most of the sprays forum members use, both organic and non-organic including all the chemicals you mentioned on your posts above.
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Never noticed that before, thanks!
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It has a lot of helpful info. Donât forget to check the reference category, too.
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So one thing I didnât understand about Imidan is that it is toxic to bees - arrgh! I was trying to avoid this. Look at old posts it looks like this has strong residual life - even in rain. Well my pack of Imidan arrived today so I am committed to using it. Read old posts from garden web about it being toxic to animals and slow break down. But then I read that it was ok for home use prior to 2000, Then another article that says it breaks down quickly. Sigh - sorry I am all over the place with this but it is confusing. I guess this is what I get for getting a History degree instead of a Horticulture degree
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It is difficult at first but so is riding a bicycle- you will quickly learn the ropes. Imidan is not so harmful to bees once it dries. When I used to use it and when I use the materials I use now I try to get customers to weed whack flowering weeds under fruit trees ahead of time, although just spraying early before the bees are moving is helpful. In my own orchard I do a pretty good job of keeping the attractive weeds down during spray season and I have an extremely vibrant population of native pollinators. They work for me and I work for them.
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