That’s one telephone pole of a persimmon tree! Amazing how straight the trunk is.
@RUenvsci Some of mine need severe pruning this winter. I pruned sparingly because I was afraid I’d cut off potential fruiting branches. Who knows? I might even like some of the varieties once I taste the fruit.
Its a monster. That’s a size 13 boot. There were a few down there I found. This was the biggest. Pretty cool to see. Don’t think the fruit is worth a damn, but the deer and hogs sure think it is.
It rarely dips below 20. Every now and then it does. Hot as hell in the Summer. This is in Ehrhardt, SC. And yes I believe that is the correct name for those.
I definitely think you did the right thing! I did the same until this past winter. Honestly, I was shocked how little fruit my trees held onto after being topped off. But it was the right thing to do for me. For now on, it will be more ‘steady state’ pruning because I will have the desired size.
Persimmon tree’s should be pruned the modified central leader. Object: Early fruiting!, trying to keep it at 9’ max.
Nature at work, nice pruning job, thanks Polar Vortex.just don’t come back. Come spring just keep what you like.
A side note grafting persimmon, some native persimmon tree’s have long running roots that start new sprouts. These are no good for grafting. First you have to cut of root from the mother tree, no taproot.
In drought condition they are vulnerable. It’s supposed to be a low maintenance tree. It just need some nitro way in the early spring, 10/10/10., it does like manganese after bloom.
The only way to tell if your rootstock grafted tree’s are in line coming out the ground. These runners could be very long. If you see a bunch of little shoots growing around a large tree.
This year’s grafting isn’t as successful as previously. A batch of rootstocks I bought locally have been rejecting the grafts. Those from another source took with no obvious issues so far. The leaves on the scion that buds out start developing black areas and then the whole thing wilts. Removing the grafting rubber reveals blackening around the area of interface between the rootstock and scion with no solid connection or abundant callous tissue. I’ve already lost 1 Ichidagaki, 1 Sestronka, and 1 20th Century this way even though they had a couple inches of good looking growth before they died. This one looks like it’s on its way out too.
@PharmerDrewee I am surprised you lost Sestronka too being it is hybrid! Those must be some picky rootstock! Thats too bad!! I hope you dont end up loosing too many!!
It’s very strange. Sestronka and 20th Century took very easily on my other set of rootstocks, while another hybrid of Rosseyanka took over a month to start showing signs of life. I likely won’t have any Ichidagaki since I only grafted those to the “bad” set of rootstocks.
I will grow most of the American varieties at my new acreage home next year. I hate keep on loosing productive Hybrid persimmons to the Polar Vortex every 8 to 10 years. I will concentrate on MB#3, 100-46, H-118, and a few JT-02 Hybrid persimmons that survived the Polar Vortex of -29F this past February. I will dig them up next February and plant the graft unions a foot below the soil line for insurance. Btw, my 4 potted Tam Kam non-astringent Asian persimmons are loaded every year and that is plenty of Kaki for me to enjoy each October @PharmerDrewee sorry to hear about those grafts that died but you still got the most Kaki varieties grown in the East coast.