Im thinking I should have done the same as mine. I would like to keep mine as dwarf as possible. Hoping to be able to harvest as much as possoble without a ladder. In the 10046 being DV will grow larger, but three are spaced 12-15 ft apart. I will be tip pruning all 3 this winter i think.
I also have IKKJ, Prok, NG, and Izu not pictured.
@jabberwocky … I plan to add Dar Sofiyivky and Saijo next spring… have wild DV rootstocks ready for those.
The last two years I have added here…
Americans … Prok, H118, H63A, Barbara’s Blush WS8-10, Mohler, Rich Tooie.
Hybrids… JT02 Mikkusu, Kasandra, Nakitas Gift, Journey.
Asians… IKKJiro, Cardinal
My abundance of free nice wild DV rootstocks made it easy to collect so many in a short time. After next spring… think I will be done collecting persimmons.
TNHunter
Trying to distill this conversation down. I cut down several large male persimmons early spring. I then got a lot of root sprouts. We were in extreme drought and before I understood the problem the deer completely destroyed them. So I expect to get a lot of root sprouts next year. Can I hope for reasonable grafting success for scions onto green wood? (Anyone spare scion wood?)
I had really good luck grafting onto new green growth this past spring.
I’ve had near 100% graft takes on green wood.
But while the graft takes, it appears to die over winter in many cases.
That’s the one it is. I also have Cliff’s hybrid named Cardinal, but no pictures of it this year. I grow mine in a container since I doubt it would survive the winter here.
That’s a very interesting shape on the Takaka. I take it these are smaller than the nominal ones.
Yes, these were runted out.
you are the persimmon whisperer 
good job!
What type of persimmon do you guys think would do the best in Central Florida? We have very wet summers and early fall, dry winters and springs, and lots and lots of sun/heat. Humidity is also high, lower than coastal Florida, but we have no seabreeze. Actual temps throughout the year range from just below 30 to just above 100, and are below 45 chill hours are between 75-150 every year.
Could I grow Asian persimmons or the improved American persimmons in this enviroment? We have a native one, but getting a hold on a Florida ecotype d. virginiana isn’t easy and won’t be improved. I know the hardier tropical species will grow here, I’m looking for the more typical grocery store types. Because they are really good.
Idk if this is will interest you but I was just reading this article from Fruit Geek about a choice Floridian persimmon called turkey lake;
the original tree is up in gainesville and article has it’s location. It has larger fruit and good flavor according to author.
Can American persimmons be self fertile? I have a tall persimmon tree in my neighbor hood that doesn’t seem to have any mates near by but it produces fruit every year.
It is in someones front yard so maybe there is a male tree in the back, if they are insect pollinated maybe I just don’t know how far bees will go for persimmon nectar lol.
Its complicated. Persimmon is at an evolutionary transition from a dioecious species to monoecious. A tree can be female, male, female with occasional male limbs, or perfect flowered producing both pollen and fruit. This applies for polyploid members of diospyros. Diploid species appear to be dioecious with separate male and female plants.
I suspect you want self-fruitful. My H118 is self-fruitful but not self fertile. It produces fruit with no seeds every year. I have no Virginiana that flower.
As mentioned above it’s not an easy topic. If you plant a cultivated female tree you will get seedless fruits. As for self-pollination, female plants with male flowers or male trees with female flowers both can be selfed, some of EG family members are result of this type of inbreed e.g. Killen, Garretson, California (likly)
I collected 3 fruits of this lone wolf persimmon tree today and got some seeds. I have a suspicion some fruits were seedless too though. All the fruit I got were viscous gloop though so couldn’t even tell where one fruit began from the next to be sure.
Dried Hachiya astringent Kaki is coming along. Just massaged them once a week.
A week or so ago
Now
Can’t wait to taste that gooey honey syrup pulp inside.
Tony
Dried Kasandra after only a few days in the dehydrator. These were cored and peeled. In 2nd photo, seeds are removed from the fruit on the right.
Compared to fruits that are merely halved, these are easier to eat. Both the pith and the skin get hard when the fruit dries. It’s a nicer eating experience without those hard parts.
