I would regraft low with JT-02 because it can handle the cold to -26F and usually died beyond that low. Sosnoskya is another hardy one you can try.
Tony
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Glad to hear yours recovered so quickly. Losing the leaves during a heat wave is never fun, but vigorous new growth is always a good sign. These definitely seem to establish fast, so hopefully we’ll both be harvesting sooner than expected.
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Appreciate the suggestion, pretty confident that would work here because I doubt my area will ever get close to -26F. I’m happy American persimmon is used as the rootstock because at least everything survived to be regrafted rather than starting over completely. My Prok was planted quite late season (mid-December) and it was my first time planting anything in December here but it survived just fine even though it was quart sized. Looking forward to getting some Lehman’s Delight grafted too next year.
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I was quite surprised with how quickly it bounced back, it arrived in quite dire condition and I planted it straight into the ongoing heat wave that week. Most of you know this probably but shade cloth on the south side during the worst of the heat wave helped a lot. I heavily mulch everything here and watered it in deeply as usual so that helped too. In my case I grabbed the wheelbarrow and stood it up to block some sun just for the few days it needed to start perking up again. I learned to never count out the durability of our native trees, I even planted a pawpaw during the same drought and it surprisingly took off like nothing happened.
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Here they are. I think the tips are quite ok. But let me know what you think.
(Don’t mind about the weeds. It has not been easy to take care of everything 
)
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A couple of questions for the experts. Has anybody tried planting 2 persimmons in the same hole? What’s the latest you have tried grafting?
@zendog .. hate that.. my Cardinal did that recently. It has one fruit still on.
How old is your Nikitas Gift tree ?
Mine is in year 4 now and is still holding 7 or 8 fruit. I checked it today. It has not dropped any since mid May.
I have heard NG is bad about dropping fruit and for some that continues for several years.
TNHunter
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Easier to plant multiple seeds in the same hole if you want to go that route. Latest graft I did was in July couple years back. Depends on your climate
The pic below shows this year’s growth from a scion that I topped just above a bud. As you can see, the limb is doing it’s best to nullify the topping and I am guessing if left alone I will be back where I started with growth going straight up. Should I do anything about that or just let it go for now and deal with it later?
I would cut now. Less resources spent growing, and it won’t put on new growth this season. Plus, the leaves left will get more sunlight.
Cut in that new growth?
Productive and nice looking fruit for a bright side of looking at it. Keep it if the fruit tastes good. Btw, I regraft all of my 4 DS imposter to the real Dar Sofivivky. I left one branch just to see how good the fruit is.
Tony
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Thanks for the feedback, Tony!
This particular tree seems to love its planting spot. It’s already about 14 feet tall with an almost ideal branch structure all the way around. It set four fruits this year, although two dropped shortly after petal fall.
On the bright side, every tree I grafted with this scion in the spring of 2024 came through our Zone 6b winter unprotected and without any dieback, which is very encouraging.
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Yea, but up to you on how much, since below the newest growth is still the same season growth
Will do. Thanks!
Hi Darrel,
Curious as to why? Do you suppose that mounding them with soil that encourages growth of feeder roots to the new soil surface for a growing season would make them more adaptable to transplant? (A layering method)
Dennis
Kent, Wa