What % rooting do you get with this method? Seems I get cuttings to callus easily but many never form roots, or it takes a long time after callus stage… Does rooting hormone seem to speed the process or increase success?
I have it divided into 4 parts. There are about 100 pieces and about 10 varieties for each bathtub. Not every variety is equally successful in rooting. Some are a little harder to root
and some take root almost all. I already have experience for some varieties at what time to cut them and therefore right at the beginning after flowering, or wait a little before they become stronger. Well, by no means am I waiting for them to be woody. Then the success rate is very low.
I also used a hormone, but I found that the success rate for green cuttings was the same for my method even without a hormone.
If I make an estimate, then since I have been using very fine dew when rooting and creating a mist, 90 to 95% will be successfully rooted. In some varieties it is even more and almost everything takes root.
I often get hot in sunny weather, even when the temperature is shading to 40 ° C, and it’s there, like in a sauna. The cuttings take root easily and even release the roots even in the air. Here they take root in a mixture of zeolite and peat.
And here in zeolite
Wojtek is a vital growth, is a very fertile and extensive shrub with a tendency to lie down to the ground. And this is exactly the problem with the ripening of the fruit at the bottom of the bush. Such fruits did not ripen enough, they were of inferior taste and those that were near the ground often moldy me. I only really ripened the fruits at the top of the bush, they were sweet, but they lack aroma. Aurora has a much better and richer taste. I eliminated all shrubs of the Wojtek variety and replaced them with a much more promising variety such as Aurora, Blizzard and the like.
Wojtek is very fertile and there was a lot of fruit, so I made wine from the fruit.
good to know this, I was going to search for this variety but will pass now.
I had about 100 Wojtek shrubs. He was a good pollinator, but the Honeybee variety seems to be better than the Wojtek variety when it comes to pollination. The fruits are also more colored and are therefore better for processing than the fruits of the Wojtek variety.
I really appreciate all of the Honeyberry information that you and @TheDerek post. Thank you so much! I tried my hand at just sticking some hardwood Aurora and Tundra cuttings in my outdoor propagation bed this (early) spring (since I had nothing to loose). I was not able to pay attention to them the way that I would have liked, but some of them still took root. I am waiting until next Spring to plant them out. I would really like to try bulk cuttings so I’m going to go back and read through this thread again.
Of the green cuttings, the Aurora variety roots very well and is one of the most successful in rooting. 2-3 weeks after flowering, I start to cut the cuttings continuously. I had 6 shrubs of the Aurora variety, from which I multiplied about 90 plants, which I gradually began to plant. I alternate them with Honeybee and Blizzard. I have multiplied the Vostorg variety from Russian varieties and they are ready for spring planting.
If you want to reproduce it en masse, do a breeding room and get a humidifier. It was the humidifier that made it easier for me to multiply and I don’t have to pay as much attention to them. If I forget to shade and I’m not home, the sun won’t burn me anymore.
I’ve had good luck just sticking prunings in the ground under the mother tree and have them root. got 2 juliet cherry cuttings to root last summer with no care and a severe drought. currants, elderberry and aronia are even easier. will have to try the aurora haskaps next spring. my crandall currant needs some lower branches trimmed so ill stick them as well. i trimmed a few tiny branches of my 2 yr. old jeanne gooseberry. stuck them both in may and they took! they grew about 10-2in. last summer. now to find a spot to put them.
In small quantities, there are no limits to the possibilities. For example, put the cuttings in five bottles. And putting it under a tree can be forgotten and they can take root.
For larger quantities, it is necessary to avoid errors. That’s why I solved it with a humidifier that automatically turns on and off.
Of course, you could bend a limb over and root a cutting that way, moose.
What was the thickness and how long were the cuttings that you took from your Jeanne gooseberry? Where did you stick them?
I do have a small indoor grow room that I could add a set up to. We are going into winter in Ohio (zone 6a). When would you recommend that I start cuttings indoors?
I was out in the field today checking on some of the honeyberries that I planted in the spring. I decided to take a few cuttings from Blue Moon to experiment with. I put one cutting in my outdoor prop bed and the other I brought inside along with a willow cutting. I have them both in the same jar of water. It will be interesting to see what happens. Oh, I also took some cuttings of a unknown variety (I think it might be Early Blue). I just stuck them in the outdoor prop bed, It will be interesting to see if they leaf out in the spring.
As I have already written, Hascap I start pruning green twigs 2-3 weeks after flowering and in my conditions in the first half of May. Around vertically growing twigs about 20 cm long. I cut the top and leave 2-3 pairs of leaves. I do not give hormone or fungicide and thus I inject into the substrate.
The greenhouse or foil is best to shade in full sun and constantly create a very fine mist. I have an even smaller foil inside the foil tree, I shade in case of sunny days and it constantly moistens the plants with fine drops of water together with very fine drops that float. I even combined a centrifugal humidifier with an ultrasonic for a terrarium.
This is what it looks like inside. there is fog.
That was perfect. Therefore, I will not burn at high temperatures, but, on the contrary, will take root quickly with great success. At the same time, the steam reduces the formation of fungi, molds and putrefaction processes that would prevent rooting.
This often happens in indoor nurseries with very stable temperatures, artificial light and poor ventilation, and it is necessary to chemically treat it. Well, I didn’t reproduce Hascap indoors.
I use an air mixture of pure peat and 2-3 mm zeolite, or zeolite itself. Zeolite - Clinoptilolite, which is mined here where I live is excellent.
Edited to say that I did read your post about you starting them 2-3 week after flowering. I was asking about advise for late fall/winter starting as it seems that’s when I have the most free time to pay attention to propagation projects.
I was asking about advise for late fall/winter starting as it seems that’s when I have the most free time to pay attention to propagation projects.
It could work. Try to wake up the rooted plant in the container prematurely in the winter months in a warm room, for example in December. Let the green twigs grow to a certain stage. Remove the green twigs and let them take root in the nursery under artificial lighting. Winterize the plant in the container again. He will wake up again in the spring months.
It would be similar to what they do in-vitro, but I would move the isolation to a later stage. Well, I would isolate it from the plant in the container and not from the cut woody twigs. It could work. The condition is to have the plant in the container now, which I want to reproduce.
I edited the post. I hope you understand how I imagine it. I’m running it through a translator because I have a problem with English.
Your English is very good, much better than my (insert your native language here), lol. I think I understand what you mean and I appreciate the link that you posted. I will try it. Thank you!
trying something new, took some hardwood cuttings today, dipped tops in wax and stuck them in tilled dirt for the winter, not sure they will root but worth a try… some i pushed under soil level slightly, some left out a bit.
That should be interesting…keep us posted.