OK… I found a few purple leafed seedlings popping up and just wondered about it…t.hey must be spice zee because that is the only purple leaf i grow.
Now that I’m up to around 120 trees, it just doesn’t make sense for me to be buying those little bottles of immunox at Lowes anymore- surely there is a better way. Can anyone tell me a source where I can buy the same ingredient in immunox (myclobutanil) in bulk quantities at lower prices. Thanks.
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Eagle 40EW is what I use. The standard places that sell pesticides online should be selling it, I think I saw it at Martin’s Produce for example.
I have not used it too much and I am on the same bottle I got around ten years ago. This is for my 1/3 acre.
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Keystone is where a lot of folks here get their supplies.
https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=428
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Thank you both. I have ordered from keystone before. THey no longer sell Eagle EW but I think they do have a generic equivalent. I really hadn’t thought about them for some strange reason. BTW, @scottfsmith your recommendation for using myclobutanil against black rot in my grapes was an amazing success. Even though I started it too late, all the leaves since the day I started using it look great, and all the fruit that hadn’t already been infected still hasn’t been. Amazingly, even some of the fruit that had tiny black spots on them have sort of overcome it. The spots stayed the same size while the grape got larger, and in several cases the original little black spot can be scraped off or just sort of falls off.
I had used captan up to the point of getting your recommendation, and it was no where near as effective. SO thanks. Now if I can just do something about this unbelievable breakout of brown rot on my peaches!! (at least next year). It’s devastated my already small crop (from late freeze).
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Kevin - you might want to review Alan’s advice on brown rot before ordering the myclobutanil.
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Kevin,
Myclobutanil does not work with brown rot. I wish it did. I use Indar. Others use Monterey Fungi Fighter and other chemicals.
Glad you act now. With brown rot, the longer you let it go without intervention, the worse it gets. That’s my experience.
Well now I’m confused.
Virgina Tech’s peach guide says immunox (myclobutanil) is “highly” effective against it, though says it can eventually build resistance. https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/450/450-721/450-721_pdf.pdf
Pudue university says immunox is one good thing for it: BP-45
University of Missouri also lists it to be used against peach brown rot: http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G6010-7
So do many, many other sources I read recently. They all said it also should involve cultural practices (mummy removeal, clean understory, disposal of affected fruit and wood, etc) but they all list immunox/Myclobutanil as one of the best things to fight it with. Oh well.
I think several people here don’t think myclobutanil work against brown rot. Maybe @alan, @scottfsmith and others who have use myclo against brown rot can chime in.
I saw Alan’s post and always appreciate his expertise, Its just frustrating that so many universities and extension programs recommend it. So…sounds like I’m going to have to buy large amounts (because I have lot of trees) of:
Copper
Horticultural Oil
Captan
Myclobutanil
Carbaryl
Imidan
Indar (or other 4 Brown Rot)
Thats over $500 worth of stuff at the quanitities and prices I get from Keystone and I’m sure I’m leaving something out. Boy, this is getting to be an expensive hobby. I’ve spent over $3,000 for my trees, and looks like I’ll need to spend $400-$500 every year or two for sprays. For someone who doesn’t sell any fruit, that’s getting pretty costly!
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Kevin,
Don’t forget sticker like Nufilm or Tactic.
Why you need cabaryl when you use Imidan?
Can you get by with Captan and skip Myclo?
You should probably look for formulations packaged for homeowners. You are purchasing way too much material. But you must already be aware of this.
Current guidelines given to commercial growers only recommend Rally for early blight- which is a condition I’ve never seen when BR destroys flowers.
Here’s and example of what I’m seeing. http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/sdhi_fungicides_for_protecting_fruit_from_brown_rot_infection
You are right! I do have Nufilm sticker and will have to keep buying it as well.
I definitely need carbaryl and Imidan both. Imidan has been highly effective for me in combating PC and OFM, but not good at all on Japanese Beetles. Though J-Beetles are only active here for a few weeks, when they arrive they absolutely destroy some of my fruits and fruit trees/plants. Grapes, grape vines, and peaches are at the top of that list with blackberries being lower but also susceptible. I find soapy water to be only good for those I hit with it, but useless at preventing those that arrive even a few minutes later. Sevin dust (carbaryl) also works best when sprayed directly onto them, but it also provides some level of protection for a few days after its applied (or until the next rain). So I don’t need it in huge quantities like I do imidan, but I certainly need both.
Thanks for that Alan, but actually that is why I’m posting this…homeowner packaging just isn’t enough for me on some things. For example, just last winter I bought a 5 pound bag of imidan and its almost gone now (1 full season and 1/2 of another). I have gone through 5 bottles of the Immunox over the last season and 1/2, so that is why I wondered if I’d be cheaper to stop buying those small homeowner bottles at Lowes. I do still have a good deal of the Kocide 3000 bag I bought from Keystone, but if I’d been using homeowner packaging bottles I’d have gone through a few. I have used almost 1/2 the 1.25 gallon of sticker (pinene II (generic Nu Film) even though it only calls for 1/2 tsp per gallon). Remember, I’m spraying about 125 trees, 50 bushes/brambels/other fruit plants, and several hundred garden plants in a 1/2 acre garden. Of course not all sprays are used on all plants, but it really adds up every 2 years.; Thats why I’ve tried to go to larger, more commercial quantities when possible- especially on things with a decent shelf life.
BTW…I was really interested in what you said about not seeing BR destroy flowers. Everything I’ve read the last few days about BR talks about how it starts with flowers and how important it is to get it on before the flowers bloom…but just like you, I’ve NEVER seen it do that at my place. It only hits peaches that are starting to ripen.
The two sprays mentioned in the link you provided that I keep seeing over and over on lots of different sites are :Luna and Indar. I understand (a little bit) how they are different, but both seem to get a lot of attention. Sounds like you wouldn’t recommend Rally or even Myclo, so would you recommend Luna or Indar? If so, which one? If not, what would you suggest. I’ve seen you mention several things you do not think are effective and/or not used commercially, but I’ve missed where you recommend what SHOULD be used. Thanks.
One way you can save a bit of money is to order through Martin’s, they have the best prices I have seen, often 20% less. I haven’t ordered from them myself but recently regretted not doing so (Regalia is much cheaper there but I found that out too late).
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Thanks Scott…that may help a lot.
You’ve probably posted it before, but could you please give me a link to the Martin’s place you are talking about. The only “Martins” I can find via google has very, very few products. Thanks, Scott!
EDIT: Disregard. I found it. Feeling pretty dumb now since it was listed above in this very thread.
I use pristine as the alternate to Indar, because it is labeled for apples as well. But I transfer the expense of materials to my customers who are glad to pay.
I can cover 50 full sized semi-standard trees (say 15’ tall with 15’ spread) with 25 gallons of spray, but I think my airblast hand gun with only a 4hp engine which comes out at about 180 PSI when the gun is fully open is the perfect power level to penetrate foliage without wasting extra spray.
Of course the commercial packaging is MUCH less expensive if you can use it up.
I don’t have to do much spraying after the 2-3 sprays I put down in early to mid-spring, which is an advantage to being further north.
I don’t need to use cabaryl for J. beets. Anything that controls PC should be strong enough to adequately control them, IME, just don’t expect the instant knock down- but they do stop feeding. But as I say, in my experience- and alternatives also have more residual control.
By far, the cheapest insecticides are the pyrethroids, but most commercial formulations require an applicator license for purchase- I assume because they are so concentrated. They are relatively safe otherwise. Permethrin may be an exception in your state. .
That was a particularly helpful post, and since your posts are always helpful, that is really saying something. You also brought up another reason why my chemical usage is probably quite a bit higher than you may have expected…I have absolutely learned for certain- and learned the hard way- that I have to spray for PC and OFM every 10-14 days. I understand you might find that concerning and perhaps even think it is overkill, but I promise you that if it rains a lot, even though I DO USE A STICKER, if I go longer than 14 days and my insects get to the feeding stage at the end of that 14 days and a good rain, my fruit will absolutely get hit, and probably hit HARD. I’m not guessing about this, nor am I basing my conclusions on just one or two experiences. Nor am I just going off of one or two experiences. This is from repeated observations. In short, this means I have to spray at LEAST6-8 times in a season. And really its more like 10-12 because if I don’t continue to spray for OFM and PC after harvest, I will get very little meaningful growth on my trees because the insects will bore into ALL (I really mean ALL) the tender tips on my trees, causing those tips to die and therefore stop to growth for several weeks.
What all this means is that I really do require a lot more spraying than it sounds like you do. That’s why I’m suddenly shopping around and becoming more cost conscience. Thanks again for all your help!
Yes you have a much worse issue with OFM than I do and mine is the worst of orchards I manage- some set in suburban type lawns don’t require any applications for OFM at all. I assume your problem with flagging is only on peaches and nects.
One way to reduce spray for OFM when the issue is only the shoots is to spray only the shoots. In my nursery I do that with Assail in a hand-sprayer. Thorough coverage is completely unnecessary for me here to keep my peaches growing properly. I can cover a 100 nursery trees with a gallon of spray.
Years ago there was a pyrethroid baited paste you could dab around the orchard that had OFM phermonal attractant which seemed to completely control the pest. The poison in the attractant seemed to work the whole season somehow. For reasons I don’t understand, it was taken off market. Someone suggested I try a home-made version, which would likely be illegal.
https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=358
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