Questions not deserving of a whole thread

I have a Keiffer Pear, and Ayers Pear. Are the following varieties compatible to graft onto them?

Duchess D’ Angouleme
Red Bartlett

Opinion on whether to Graft, or to root the scion?

I don’t know what it is.

I could just be fine. It could be a nasty soil disease.

Just in case of the later. I would plant them out on a spot you can abandon tree growing wise. (vegtible patch for example) keep them there 1-2 years to detirmine if their sick or health. And if their sick. Don’t plant new healthy tree’s on the same spot. Or at least switch species (stonefruit to pitfruit or vise versa)

You would be pushing it, but if you started them now you should get at least a small crop. is a source for several of them and they ship within a week.

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I didn’t get an answer elsewhere - When you are grafting pear onto a dwarfing rootstock, how high should the graft be? I also have grafts to do on rootstock tops on callery, and U want enough of each. I intend to remove from callery after rootstock roots.
My G41 apples I have left at least 6" above last roots, gave 6-8" of stock with roots. The G41/MM111 interstems I went with what was suggested on forum, 5-6" of dwarf with base to be buried.

what dwarf stock are you using? quince? OHXF ?

That’s a cool graft, I would keep it just for the novelty.

No long term experience to share yet but G41/M111 (and Bud9/M111) interstems I did last year I used 10" to 12" of dwarfing interstem and buried the bottom union about 3". I believe the consensus is that around the 8" mark achieves maximum dwarfing effect and I just went a little further to be sure. Pretty sure I’ve read that on here or somewhere at least…

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Deer fence question: I am starting a horizontal type espalier for apples. If I build a picket fence enclosure, and the picket fence is 4 feet high…If the pickets are 4 feet away from the espalier, is that adequate to keep the deer at bay? What if the fence is placed 3 feet away? They won’t be able to jump it, no landing area inside.

Discovered this damage on my new Potomac pear from ACN. It was sprayed with dormant oil and neem, then Surround a week later. None of my other pears look like this and were treated similarly.

I have OHxF 333. Wishing I had a few extra in case. I am going to graft the tops onto a callery that fell, and I will have it next year. Want to be sure I have enough on the actual tree first.

That’s what I did as well. It was somewhere here.

when bench grafting.

Think about the propegation method of your rootstock. If it’s propegation method rooted cuttings/air layer you can easily plant it 4+ inches deeper. (mm111 M9 B9 etc)

If it’s a seedling or tissue culture plant. It’s best to plant it exactly at the depth it was.

the hight above the “planting depth line” depends on the dwarfing and disease susceptebility.

Some dwarf stocks when grafted high. give more dwarfing. Some do not.
Usualy if they dwarf when used as intersem they also dwarf when grafted high.

Some rootstocks have disease suceptibility of “stem/wood diseases” like burr knots on M26/M111. So you want to graft these idealy 1-2" above planting depth. (maybey 4" if it might “sink” a bit after planting or you mulch heavy.

If these wood diseases are not a problem and you like the extra dwarfing effect you can graft higher.

OHXF 333. I have no acces to myself. So no personal experiance. But from literature. i can see no reason why you can’t graft it at any hight you might want. higher might give a little more dwarfing. might not give any extra dwarfing

Do all pear rootstocks have thorns? I have a rootstock that grew out from a lost tree. It has a few thorns and I wondered if that would identify it.

i am not sure.

But “most” seedling tree’s have thorns. Some “loose” the thorns when getting older.
And quince pear rootstocks have no thorns.

I think even if thorns would identify your pear rootstock. You’d still have a wide range of different attributes between the group it’s identified to. (it’s not likely to be quince if it has thorns. So it’s likely from the pyrus family) So it could be an OHxF or seedling. And anything in between.

it could also be a hawthorn (like name implies has thorns). Although id consider that rare.
Cottoneaster/amelanchier usualy don’t have thorns.

Once it leafs out. You can easily identify it to pyrus or hawthorn or genus level. Species usualy to. Variety gets really hard. (Genus is pyrus for example. species is the level of difference between EU and Asian pears. Variety is the difference between golden deliciuos and red delcious for example)

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Thanks. Was just curious.

I’ve watched this (Nanking cherry?) grow on the right of way in my road. Might it be worth transplanting?


It’s my understanding that most nanking cherries are propagated from seed and grow on their own root. I have one I paid for and one that I assume the birds gifted me(see they are not all bad). You could snack on a few berries this summer and throw the pits in some moist fertile soil and see what happens.


Is it normal for a light amount of sap to ooze from the cut end of a grafted scion?

I have a young cherry tree what was severely impacted by canker, which I aggressively pruned. I saved some clean scion from the cutting, and another cherry tree variety, and grafted them into the pruned scaffold. Now, as the buds are swelling and readying to bloom, I am noticing small amounts of sap at the cut end of the scions, and also the cut branch ends that were not grafted to. Is this normal, or sign of continued infection?

Never noticed any sap when grafting. you are going dormant grafting, right? Any wounded area is supposed to be covered by parafilm or something

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Yes, I cut the scions while dormant, and grafted to the tree while it was still dormant ( approx 1 month ago ) I did not seal the ends.