is it sticky? Is it thicker? Or runny like water? or slightly amber coloured? could be gummiosis. natural defense system of the prunus family response to stress. Althout it can also be an indication the tree is fighting somthing. that can be almost anything but around here (EU) is usualy silver leaf fungus. or pseudomonas bacteria.
It is clear very very light honey color . Some cuts have very fine pinprick droplets. One cut had a amount about the size 1/8 inch round and it was hardened. It looks to be coming from the region where the bark / cambium meet, rather than the wood or on the bark itself.
if it was hardend i think it is gummiosis.
first google link
https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2011/7-13/gummosis.html
You could google some more or wait for others with longer cherry growing experiance to chime in 
I totally agree, and since I have plenty callery trees I can use for future rootstalks, and since I’m at least going to try and keep that strange graft/tree alive until winter so I can harvest a new stick or two of scionwood with which I can make a new, more normal tree, I am going to leave this odd ball and see what happens. In fact, I’ve got plenty of room so I will probably just leave that graft (minus the stick or two of scionwood I take off the tip this winter) for the long haul and just see what kind of tree it makes in a few years. Most likely it will break at some point, but its so odd that it will be fun to see what happens
I have a Bartlett Pear, about 5.5’ tall with flowers that just bloomed today. It’s basically a twig tied to a piece of bamboo. I planted it last fall and it clearly doesn’t mind its new home, but should I snip off the flowers or remove any formed fruit to have its resources placed on growing wood instead?
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No or later doesn’t matter. At least you can look at the flowers a while longer and dream of things that might have been.
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If it’s a skinny tree just planted last year, I would remove the flower. It takes a trees a lot energy to carry fruit to maturity. That’s why a lot of trees will take a break after a fruitful year (biennialing)
Not that your tree will go bienial but why not allow your tree to put its energy to grow and establish first?
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@mamuang - Along these lines . . . I don’t recall any advice about how to nudge grafted branches to thrive, as far as removing growth along the grafted branch - between the graft and the trunk? Should all leaf shoots, etc. be taken off to favor the graft?
Yes, anything below your graft needs to be removed.
A graft will grow if there is no competition of energy. Also, it depends on other factors such as a location of your graft on a tree, a variety of scionwood, your rootstock, etc.
If you choose to graft on a small twig, lower on a tree, it won’t grow much compare to a bigger branch higher up. If you ever graft a Beauty plum, you will find out what “grows vigorously” means.
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OK. thanks! I’m ON it!
Yeah,I use Beauty as a place to put grafts.
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Between gooseberries, jostaberries, red currants and black currants which are the most shade tolerant? I want to plant something on the north side of my house in Zone 5B.
From what I’ve read, they’re all quite shade tolerant. That being said, they’ll produce better (quantity and quality) with at least some sun.
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A question about using foil, shiny side out, to wrap grafts to protect for intense heat (80s and up?).
I know many of you use foil. I was told by a local orchardist to do this every time I graft, so I do it as a matter of habit. Temps are variable in the spring. One day it might be 40s then a day or two later it’s up in the 80s.
The foil is a little assurance the grafts don’t get cooked after your done grafting and you aren’t thinking about how hot it is actually getting out there.
So my question is, when it’s colder, like mid 50s or below, does having the foil on actually hinder callus formation because the union doesn’t get as much heat as it might otherwise, and might need to callus more quickly?
Also, do you wrap only the graft union area, or the whole scion and graft union?
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I think the question needs a decision tree rather then a yes or no. Some species need more heat the others and in different regions some need additional heat others need protection. Some places it could vary from season to season while other its stable. Also grafting wax and wraps come in colors. Black wax would be better for gathering heat and white for repelling but green and red are choices too.
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i have used foil a few times. But am certainly not an expert. And have different growing conditions.
But i used foil mainly to protect from sun. The Alluminium reflects IR really well. And visible light decently (but blocks virtiually all)
So the graft stays a bit cooler, but mainly looses less moisture directly from the light hitting it.
If the envirment is really warm, the alluminium foil does little to insulate it.
I however last year experimented with painting over the parapfilm warpped grafts with interior latex paint. Even the non thinned (water) paint, put on extra thick. Did not seem to hinder the buds braking trough. And it was way less hassle. Just wrapping in parafilm and painting, set and forget
In all cases i wrapped/painted the whole graft union and scion. Since the main reason (in my mind) is to slow down it’s dessication.
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I have this volunteer tree grow in my yatd. I think it is some sort of fruit tree. I would appreciate someone identify what type of tree it is for me so I can graft it over and make it useful.
Cranberry Bush Viburnum (as has been shared with me on this forum) is another shade tolerant choice, along with wild northern raisin (another Viburnum) and honeyberry.
Also possibly Saskatoon serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia)
I am positive I just pulled two of those out of my planter.