Questions not deserving of a whole thread

There is a very old, mature crab apple in front of my house. Crab apples were planted as a tree lawn plant in front of many of the house on the street. Most of them have been long ignored and are full of water sprouts and dead wood. Most still manage to flower nicely each spring. The all get terrible scab fairly early in the season and are usually defoliated by mid-summer. This makes my property look terrible. I’m wondering if it is worth trying to spray this large tree. If all the other crabs are getting bad scab, blowing diseased leaves into my yard, is spray even worth it? We’re on pretty small (50x100 foot) lots here, so they trees are very close to each other.

Thanks!

Megan, have you considered grafting your tree to disease resistant edible varieties?

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Not so much a question as an observation, and none of the more directly related threads have been alive in a loooong time.
I have two Pawpaws currently in my house that I have marked for grafting and frankly wanted to get a bit of a jump on that process since they came from a slightly lower elevation zone and weren’t in the ground yet.
They are in two different rooms, but each had a couple flowers on them that I let blossom. Although I could not smell anything, a small colony of fruit gnats of unknown progeny certainly could once they got close to pollen stage. I bent one up to look at it last night and there must have been fifty gnats come out of it. I’m thinking one could get pretty creative with just a couple of male-stage flowers as bait in a trap.
I’m not sure how much pollen they would carry along if they went flower to flower though. Someone like a ladybug going in after them might do the trick.

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Are you sure it’s not fungus gnats? Those buggers can wreak havoc inside on new seedlings. Obviously if your pawpaws are blooming they aren’t tiny plants so they should be ok…

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I couldn’t say. I have a lot growing inside this year, including a couple of “potato” species. I don’t see a lot around damp soil or new plants. They seem to prefer what shouldn’t still be in my sink, sweeter drinks, and occasionally nostrils. They are attracted to the humidity in the bathroom, where most just drop dead in the tub or sink. The pawpaw I noted them on is in one of the bathrooms with my attempt to overwinter tomoato and pepper plants. (Those aren’t growing yet, but there is still “tension” in the stalks.) And they are not obviously going for the basket of onions on the kitchen counter, although nothing has quite made it to a stage of breaking down.

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Ryan, I have thought about it, but I have some reservations. Our immediate neighbor has reported several folks on our block to the city (including us) or police for various perceived slights. She also harassed us for weeks after we took down a sugar maple in our backyard that was badly weakened from borers (and overhanging the garage and house). So, I have some concerns that she would cause trouble. Our city code requires a permit to trim or otherwise alter trees in public areas (tree lawns are included here - and actually spraying is included as well). While I doubt the city would care much, I’m not sure it’s worth the headache.

Here’s a picture of the tree in bloom in 2019 (right after we moved in):

In March of 2021

And defoliated in early September 2021:

We’ve changed the yard quite a bit since we moved in!

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Hmmm… having a legal aspect definitely changes things. Still, if you have to get a permit to spray, you might as well just apply for a permit to “trim” at the same time. I bet there aren’t regulations about adding branches to your trees…

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I’m new to pruning trees and now that I’m planting a few of my benchgrafts I’m very, very confused. I have a few standard sized apples going in the ground in what will be pasture, so I want the lowest branches to be fairly high up and out of sheep range, which is the opposite of how most people want to shape their trees and not how any pruning guides seem to advise. Any tips on pruning? I don’t know how to begin, and how to predict at what height the branches of my tiny trees will end up as the tree matures.

I’ve a minor nuisance question. Ultimately it doesn’t matter, but I can’t find the answer so I am going to ask it to close the matter in my head. I received scion wood from a variety of places this year, and a good bit of it came in long slender zipper bags clearly designed more with the purpose of such things and the labeling in mind. My scion fridge would be much more orderly if I could standardize my efforts. What are such bags sold as / where are they sold? A basic search just gives me all the options I can pick up in any grocery or dollar store. Refined efforts give me everything from fabric pots to body bags, but nothing closer than standard freezer bags.

@Mtncj
It may help to say what size you are looking for ?
Try Uline Products
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Heavy-Plastic-Reclosable-Zipper/dp/B003ZZY8YQ/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2GATHPGT6YUGC&keywords=Uniline%2Bziplock%2Bbags%2C%2Btall%2Bnarrow&qid=1650320423&sprefix=uniline%2Bziplock%2Bbags%2C%2Btall%2Bnarrow%2B%2Caps%2C310&sr=8-18&th=1

I put my scions in a big soda cup that is as tall as my bags are wide , cut them at the top of the cup , they all fit in the bag .
Then in boxes with a master label .,before being put in refrigerator.
Helps with organizing , not so much shuffling…

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I can’t say as I truly have a size I am looking for yet. There has not been that much consistency in what I have received beyond it being better than what I pick up off the shelf locally. As you mentioned, scion can be tailored to fit the packaging. I received scion everywhere from 3" - 14" this year and I generally only want a couple sticks of anything.
The U-line page had a lot closer to samples I have/had. I didn’t spot the ones that were longer & narrower, but I’d be surprised if that’s not where a lot of those I recieved came from. A deeper search might find some closer to what I see in my head. Probably 3" x 10" or 12" with a label field would be about perfect for my needs, although consistency is mostly what I was after. Gallon sized freezer bags forced a lot of diagonal packaging, and I opted not to recut anything I had until I was ready to use it. At some point, I’ll be collecting primarily from my own plants, so I’ll make my initial cuts in line with whatever I have set up.

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Doesn’t match the imagined bag but I don’t think it could get much closer than that for the imagined purpose. Still a little curious as to where those using them got theirs, but not curious enough to call them all and ask. :smiley:

Keep it to a single stem until your above sheep height then notch (cut bark 1/3 of the way around trunk on spring) to force the buds where you want branches…Skillcult has a good tree training video on youtube

No problem:

Near the beginning of May, we notice little thickets of apple-trees just springing up in the pastures where cattle have been,–as the rocky ones of our Easterbrooks Country, or the top of Nobscot Hill, in Sudbury. One or two of these perhaps survive the drought and other accidents,–their very birthplace defending them against the encroaching grass and some other dangers, at first.

In two years’ time 't had thus
Reached the level of the rocks,
Admired the stretching world,
Nor feared the wandering flocks.

But at this tender age
Its sufferings began:
There came a browsing ox
And cut it down a span.

This time, perhaps, the ox does not notice it amid the grass; but the next year, when it has grown more stout, he recognizes it for a fellow-emigrant from the old country, the flavor of whose leaves and twigs he well knows; and though at first he pauses to welcome it, and express his surprise, and gets for answer, “The same cause that brought you here brought me,” he nevertheless browses it again, reflecting, it may be, that he has some title to it.

Thus cut down annually, it does not despair; but, putting forth two short twigs for every one cut off, it spreads out low along the ground in the hollows or between the rocks, growing more stout and scrubby, until it forms, not a tree as yet, but a little pyramidal, stiff, twiggy mass, almost as solid and impenetrable as a rock. Some of the densest and most impenetrable clumps of bushes that I have ever seen, as well on account of the closeness and stubbornness of their branches as of their thorns, have been these wild-apple scrubs. They are more like the scrubby fir and black spruce on which you stand, and sometimes walk, on the tops of mountains, where cold is the demon they contend with, than anything else. No wonder they are prompted to grow thorns at last, to defend themselves against such foes. In their thorniness, however, there is no malice, only some malic acid.

The rocky pastures of the tract I have referred to,–for they maintain their ground best in a rocky field,–are thickly sprinkled with these little tufts, reminding you often of some rigid gray mosses or lichens, and you see thousands of little trees just springing up between them, with the seed still attached to them.

Being regularly clipped all around each year by the cows, as a hedge with shears, they are often of a perfect conical or pyramidal form, from one to four feet high, and more or less sharp, as if trimmed by the gardener’s art. In the pastures on Nobscot Hill and its spurs, they make fine dark shadows when the sun is low. They are also an excellent covert from hawks for many small birds that roost and build in them. Whole flocks perch in them at night, and I have seen three robins’ nests in one which was six feet in diameter.

No doubt many of these are already old trees, if you reckon from the day they were planted, but infants still when you consider their development and the long life before them. I counted the annual rings of some which were just one foot high, and as wide as high, and found that they were about twelve years old, but quite sound and thrifty! They were so low that they were unnoticed by the walker, while many of their contemporaries from the nurseries were already bearing considerable crops.

But what you gain in time is perhaps in this case, too, lost in power,–that is, in the vigor of the tree. This is their pyramidal state.

The cows continue to browse them thus for twenty years or more, keeping them down and compelling them to spread, until at last they are so broad that they become their own fence, when some interior shoot, which their foes cannot reach, darts upward with joy: for it has not forgotten its high calling, and bears its own peculiar fruit in triumph.

Such are the tactics by which it finally defeats its bovine foes. Now, if you have watched the progress of a particular shrub, you will see that it is no longer a simple pyramid or cone, but that out of its apex there rises a sprig or two, growing more lustily perchance than an orchard-tree, since the plant now devotes the whole of its repressed energy to these upright parts. In a short time these become a small tree, an inverted pyramid resting on the apex of the other, so that the whole has now the form of a vast hour-glass. The spreading bottom, having served its purpose, finally disappears, and the generous tree permits the now harmless cows to come in and stand in its shade, and rub against and redden its trunk, which has grown in spite of them, and even to taste a part of its fruit, and so disperse the seed.

Thus the cows create their own shade and food; and the tree, its hour-glass being inverted, lives a second life, as it were.

It is an important question with some nowadays, whether you should trim young apple-trees as high as your nose or as high as your eyes. The ox trims them up as high as he can reach, and that is about the right height, I think.

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@Mer
quote=“Mer, post:2762, topic:10530”]
I want the lowest branches to be fairly high up and out of sheep range,
[/quote]

This is easy to remedy. …

Plant the sheep very deep !
Extra deep,… they will not be able to reach even low branches .

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In a nutshell build a tall heavy wire fence around the saplings,. Keep the saplings to one central leader. Finally lob it off a foot or two above grazing height and let the beaches develop.

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This thought has popped into my head as I’ve read assorted threads. It does not really affect me much, but I find the range of potential answers, given my lack of education in the matter, to be fascinating. I’m sure many of you can easily narrow the field of directions my mind wants to go…
For interstem issues where there are graft union fail potentials, or a shifting of results as nutrients flow up and down through the multiple unions, could a strip of bark/cambium across both grafts be removed and replaced with another, essentially second interstem, strip of bark of another variety to rectify the difficulties or strengthen the unions with a different cambial reaction?

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Is there a resource that tells the colors of apple flowers?

My aunt has given me free reign on grafting this funky apple tree of unknown cultivar in her front yard. It has very light flowers. I was thinking I could maybe graft different cultivars on different sections of the tree so that there would be swaths of different colors when it flowers. I can find loads of resources that help ID an apple fruit but nothing solid on flower color.

There used to be a multi-grafted tree near my work years ago. It had one half of the tree (crabapples) with a very light pink flower and another half with a very dark and striking flower.

More people asked me about that tree than just about any other plant.

Scott

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