Thanks, all! I’ll keep an eye on it and hope that higher-up bud pokes out some leaves to compare with. I’m pretty sure that it’s regrowing the grafted variety but wanted the extra eyes over it! This unfortunate tree has had a rough start.
If this is its first growing season after being dug up from the nursery. a single bud is all it needs. You will likely be amazed at how quickly the roots push a bigger tree than the one you thought you were getting to begin with. One season, I mean.
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How would those of you that have grafted pawpaw and multiple other species rate the early vigor of pawpaw grafts to other species.
I ask this because my pawpaw are very very slow compared to my persimmon. I was curious if this was common or it is just my current grafts.
Thanks
Anyone have any idea what kind of mushroom/fungi/growth this might be?
This is at the outer ring of the dripline of a blue spruce. The growth is hard and not spongy in any way
After a time these things turn hard and black (I’ve seen them before)
Scott
I thought so too… it’s just not near any of the commonly listed species.
Is it possible to graft non-dormant fresh cut scions? I would like to graft sweet cherry to an existing scaffold and root stock, and peach to a topped nectarine, but have not saved any scion wood at the time of dormancy and so would be using cuttings that are currently growing.
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I would think that summer/greenwood budding would be an option.
I have done very little T-budding, and that was early in my fruit-growing career, mainly with mulberries, but it worked OK.
Never had any success summer budding pecans/hickories with the ‘coin-purse’ budding technique that John Brittain used at NRNTN. But, I did do a mid-summer 4-flap ‘banana’ graft with a freshly-collected scion of J.Yoder #1 shagbark hickory on pecan, back around 1998, that is still alive today.
Whatever technique you use - budding or grafting, I think it’s probably essential to remove leaves and employ some strategy to diminish dessication (parafilm, plastic bag, aluminum foil shield, etc.)
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I cut a canker on my cherry tree, and I tried to keep the cut bits from falling but some parts fell to the soil and on other leaves, what should I do from here, will the tree get more infected now?
Spray your fungicide. A little on the soil wouldn’t hurt either. But otherwise do t worry so much 100% sure you never able to find all the cancers, anyway.
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Ok I was thinking on removing 1 inch of top soil and replacing it would that do it because I don’t really have fungicide
Got milk? You have a fungicide.
There is another thread about milk as fungicide in the forum and I do not know if its actually effective on blackknot but it shouldn’t hurt. Removing the soil is not however a good solution.
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Alright, I’ll try milk, but is moving soil bad because I am not sanitizing it? Because I was trying to just remove the particles off the top soil
Blackknot is not systemic it grows at the site of infection and is carried by the wind and rain. knots you drop could still mature and release spores but spores on the ground are not going to grow on the ground.
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This for me is I suspect bacterial canker
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It’s not ideal but it does sometimes work. Use some aluminum foil to keep the hot sun off of the scion. Remove the leaves.
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I picked up a Golden Rose Apple and Strawberry Guava at a CRFG meeting last week. I’ve never grown either, but plan to keep them pots for a couple of years at least.
Any pointers on growing these?
SoCal Zone 10b
Thanks!
Would snipping 2/3 of each leaf off help a plant that isn’t made for excessive heat survive a few 99 degree days? Aside from the part where the plant does actually need leaves…
If it’s small enough, just give it shade with a tarp or something to defuse the light.
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