My personal experience with my elderberry patch is that the first year canes only get about 6 to 7 ft tall max. And then the second year sometimes they put out more growth and berries, but they die after that second year I think. And the growth in the second year isn’t much in terms of added height I don’t think. I think they focus heavily on fruiting if they make it to the second year.
These are wild elderberries in zone 5B though. Not sure about your zone with those cultivars. But as far as my experience goes there’s really no need to prune them, they self-limit pretty conveniently. I just go into the patch in the spring when their buds are swelling and break out all the canes that aren’t showing signs of life.
Asian persimmon cuttings seem to root reasonably well, at least compared to a lot of other types of trees (anyone with experience please correct me if I’m wrong), would a Fuyu type on its own roots grow much different than Fuyu on American persimmon seedling rootstock like most nursery trees? I don’t need to produce hundreds of trees to sell every year like a nurseryman or lady looking to earn a living, so I’m trying to work with what I’ll already have. if possible.
do you mean true seeds (need to pick bulbils out of the flower with a tweezer to even get those)
Or do you mean the bulbils (tiny bulbs in the flowerhead)
The bulbuls taste the same in my experience. Although i would harvest them earlier, since harvested mature, they get the same protective skin, bulbs have.
replanting the bulbuls will yield you clones of the mother plant. And some people believe will yield you better planting stock with less diseases. It however takes a year from a bulbil to go to a clove, and then another year to form a bulb with multiple cloves
I would recommend however to harvest the flower stalk before it starts twisting and becomes woody. You can pull it out of the plant. And it feels stretchy/rubbery when pulling. These are called garlic scapes. And have a garlicy taste. But differ somewhat from cloves/bulbuls.
But am planning on sowing some seeds of it this year.
From what i read diospyros virginiana, is more vigorous and can handle more frost and different soils than diospyros kaki and lotus. (this made me specifically search for D virginiana instead of kaki/lotus seeds)
Based on that alone. I think it is likely you will notice at least some difference in own rooted or grafted tree’s. If that difference is large enough to matter for you, i can’t answer.
Is there a grand long list of apple varieties that describes if they are spur bearing or tip bearing? I’m looking for Sierra Beauty, Co-op 29 and Wickison Crab specifically.
not that i know off. Mostly you will just have to google or search the forum for the cultivars your interested in.
Keep in mind though that a lot of the “tip bearers” can also form spurs. Not that many that are purely tip bearing. So with some pruning to promote more spurs you can also grown tip bearers like they are spur bearing.
Assuming it’s one of the semi-tip bearers and not on the heavy tip end of the spectrum
Looking at my young wickson I was thinking it was spur bearing. That is encouraging for the Sierra beauty. I was afraid I was pruning it too hard. Does it develop alot of branches for you, or does it just like to grow solitary limbs?
as a partial resource on whether trees are spur/tip/partial. (Also good for pollination groups.) They don’t have every variety and are incomplete on some that are there. If they have it it’ll be at the bottom under ‘Characteristics’ → ‘Fruit bearing: Spur/Partial tip-bearer/etc’
To encourage spur formation I think you’d just want to Summer prune long lateral branches to 2-4 buds? Then they’ll either branch out, try to keep going, or develop a fruiting spur.
