I don’t quite know if I did this, correct but I do have a question that doesn’t necessarily deserve an entire thread.
What is the “why” behind cutting off downward growth specifically. I am currently pruning peach trees, and just thought about it. But this would really apply to any fruit tree.
I totally understand, cutting upward growth that is shading you’re more vertical scaffolding, branches, and sub branches as you want those to grow to develop into permanent branching. But when it comes to downward growth, it would make sense to me to cut the downward growth about a 4 inch section. With two side lateral branches, that could produce fruit and further short sun branches. continue this until it either Dies back, or is not producing.
I will try to post a picture of what I am talking about but if we try this with the fruit not to ripen properly? Would the branch day off because it is not getting sunlight? Why not keep Stubbs on the bottom of the branches to produce fruit?
According to Mike Parker’s peach-pruning videos from NC State Extension Service, downward growth will be shaded by the branch above (at least) and thus should be pruned off. Similarly, upward growth will shade the branch below (at least) and should go as well.
Twigs that grow downward inside the crown and/or on lower skeletal branches are inferior in terms of nutrition and lighting. They rarely develop well and are mostly a nuisance. It is a different story if the branches are growing downwards or are bent downwards (hanging) on the outer part of the crown or on the top.
Just got a few feathered trees that are about 5 feet and each has a few 6 inch (or so) branches that were pruned at the end—should I leave it alone for now? I have only received fully-branched trees or whips, but none feathered like this and want to make sure I approach it appropriately.
I would try to use the structure that’s already present as much as possible. The buds will grow from the pruned ends and it will eventually look like one continuous branch.
I think those little peg will dry up and wither. To me, it looks like the tree is posturing to send its growth to the top, which has a lot of buds. That’s good if you want a taller tree.
It’s Castleton (euro plum) on Myrobalan. I would prefer it to start branching a lot lower, but I’m hesitant to cut it because of the lack of visible buds.
@evilpaul
You said one of the branches has a visible bud, so that ought to be enough insurance to cut as low as you want given you leave that one branch with visible bud… If no other buds form along the trunk after the cut, that one bud will become your trunk which sets you back a bit but it’s okay. I think it’s worth the risk if you want a shorter tree.
Does anyone know if Morris Plum is a Biannual producer?
22’ was the first year it set fruit (aside from a few in 21’) - a large amount from a heavy blossoming tree. I did not thin any, but an animal knocked them all off, and nearly the entire tree over at 50% ripe
23’ the tree appears to only have 20-30% of its usual blossoms.
It looks like there should be more blossoms from what appear to be spurs, but they are just sending leaves.
Biannual production or result from the animal damage?
I want this guy to come by my house and prune my 4 peach trees. He will be done in about 20 minutes as fast as he prunes. I waste too much time looking at what to do rather than just making the pruning cuts.
Can anyone confrim/deny that this is fireblight? I’m in zone 5 central-eastern new york, I am pretty certain some of the trees have it, I did not plant these, a week ago I removed the top half of a tree I am fairly certain had it in the bark, and pulled out a tree that had died behind it. Trees are just starting to leaf out and I want to start taking care of these trees. It has been extremely dry hot this spring, yesterday we hit 86. Mostly the uppermost leaves on the branches dead, is this just drought/heat stress of FB?
new growth. this was the first apple to leaf/bud out zone 5. tag says its a winesap, I have definitely seen unhappy/unhealthy leaves in several of the groups of trees here but I only started learning recently and taking care of these trees.
edit: I apologize,did not realize there was a disease/insect id thread, have posted theree
If several different trees have same issue then it suggest an issue with that shared location. When were these trees planted? Were they sprayed with anything?
Fireblight is prevalent in warm, humid weather, was it humid where you are? You said it was dry…
“Fire blight is most damaging during warm (70°F), humid weather.”
I have a cleft graft question. I’m doing some cleft grafts with skinny apple scions onto ¼ rootstock. I’m unable to get a thin taper on the scions the end of my wedges are a little thick when I put the scion into the split of the rootstock there is a little gap at the bottom of the wedge to the split in the rootstock. The deeper I insert the scion the more the rootstock splits an the small gap is still there because of the thickness of the end of the wedge. If I wrap it really well and there is canbium contact on one side will it heal an fill in the gap?
