Is this a graft or a whole tree?If there is a question about being Plum Pox,(it could creep in possibly),maybe let your local extension service know.
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It is a grafted branch 5 years ago. There is Extension office about 45 minutes away. But the Extension Service more gear towards helping local farmers resolve agriculture issues, not toward the individual gardener.
I am pretty sure it’s not a herbicide issue. And I don’t think anyone near the tree sprayed herbicide
You can go to any states Extension website and they have a section called Ask an Expert. They usually reply pretty quick.
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Good point, I will try to go to their website
Refractometer question. I have several high end ones I bought ages ago for salinity testing reef aquariums. It’s amazing how inexpensive entry level ones are these days.
Does anyone know if there is a formula for converting salinity measurements into brix measurements? All of mine are percent salt on left side of view, and specific gravity of salt on the right side. It seems there should be a way to convert that to brix count?
I guess if I have to buy a brix one I could do a conversion for future reefers that later get into growing fruit…
Edit: I actually found one. Look out brix counts coming soon.
Relationship between Salt Solution and Sugar Concentration (Brix) and refractive index at 20°C
| Salt g/100g | Refractive Index | Brix % | Saturation |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 | 1.3330 | 0 | |
| 1 | 1.3348 | 1.3 | |
| 2 | 1.3366 | 2.5 | |
| 3 | 1.3383 | 3.7 | |
| 4 | 1.3400 | 4.8 | |
| 5 | 1.3418 | 6.0 | |
| 6 | 1.3435 | 7.2 | |
| 7 | 1.3453 | 8.4 | |
| 8 | 1.3470 | 9.5 | |
| 9 | 1.3488 | 10.6 | |
| 10 | 1.3505 | 11.7 | |
| 11 | 1.3523 | 12.8 | |
| 12 | 1.3541 | 14.9 | |
| 13 | 1.3558 | 15.1 | |
| 14 | 1.3576 | 16.1 | |
| 15 | 1.3594 | 17.2 | |
| 16 | 1.3612 | 18.4 | |
| 17 | 1.3630 | 19.5 | |
| 18 | 1.3648 | 20.6 | |
| 19 | 1.3666 | 21.7 | |
| 20 | 1.3684 | 22.7 | |
| 21 | 1.3703 | 23.8 | |
| 22 | 1.3721 | 24.9 | |
| 23 | 1.3740 | 26.0 | |
| 24 | 1.3759 | 27.1 | |
| 25 | 1.3778 | 28.1 | |
| 26 | 1.3797 | 29.2 | |
| 26.28 | 1.3802 | 29.5 | 0 °C |
| 26.31 | 1.3803 | 29.5 | 10 °C |
| 26.38 | 1.3804 | 29.6 | 20 °C |
| 26.50 | 1.3807 | 29.8 | 30 °C |
Will strawberries being shaded and crowded by another plant ever turn red? The color on the strawberries that the kids have been writing observations of has been stuck on green for weeks. I don’t want to transplant the strawberries now and mess up their observations with three whole days left in the school year but I suppose I should move them to the southern side of the milkweed for next year. Any hope that kids visiting the school garden during the summer will see red berries if I just leave it for now though?
We planted the strawberries years ago so I don’t remember the kind but I think they’re probably June bearing. The school garden has been crazy awesome this year.
Thanks!
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I’ve never heard of strawberries not turning red. Just give them time.
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Does anyone have thoughts on what is going on with this Arctic GLO nectarine? It seems like a healthy tree. But every year the fruit splits hard.
I thought maybe irregular or to much water. My springs are usually pretty wet. But on top of the damage which looks like thripe on steroids I’ve noticed a fairly large uptick in leaves dropping. Thinking back it did that in the previous years too. Never enough to leave the tree looking bare, and it comes back strong every year, but more than you’d expect to occasionally fall in stiff winds.
Did you spray it at all?
Pear people: At what point can folks tell what variety a pear is (or make a good guess) based on how the fruit looks? I also have pictures of leaves and blooms and bloom times. Though so many of the pears seem similar so I’m not sure how helpful it is.
I have lots of pear trees. Many of them have zero or very little fruit because I didn’t know what I was doing (didn’t spray with hort. oil at correct time last year) and because of a late frost. However, I’d like to start figuring out what types of pears they are! I’m going to try and get my small number of fruits to hang on - if only so I can figure out what each tree is.
That is really bad cracking. I think at least part of what’s going on is a bad case of bacterial spot. Bac. spot will defoliate some trees, and crack fruit. Some fruits really crack badly in rainy climates.
Some bad crackers for me were Sweet Scarlet, Indian Free, Sweet Bagel, BuenOs II (the worst). I hate to tell you this, but it’s best to get rid of peaches which regularly crack in your climate. There is no fixing the problem, unless you can grow the peach/nectarine in a hoop house or green house.
The goo coming out of the peaches may simply be from the cracking, but it could also be insect damage. It looks like you have some spray residue on the leaves. What are you spraying?
Arctic Glo is known to have this issue in some climates.
@warmwxrules do you still have your Arctic Glo?
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How funny is that, I commented on the thread that you posted. Back in 2017 I thought it may have been something to do with the tree still being potted. O sweet sweet past me. So full of hope.
I’ve struggled with peaches and this nectarine. I’m getting a hang of the apples and cherries but lost one peach tree this year which only leaves the Majestic and Arctic Glo. The Majestic seems resilient where disease is concerned but flowers to early so I’ve lost everything on there to frost so far. Not to mention deer savaged the tree not to long ago so it is recovering.
I follow the same spray pattern with my stone fruit that I have with my apples with timing being the main difference. This year I did miss the copper dormant spray on the Arctic. By the time I got on it there were blooms on the tree so I decided to skip it.
Once the shucks were ready I hit it with Immunox, Serenade, Monterey Garden Spray, Regalia, and Surround. 10 days later after 3" of rain sulfur, Immunox, and Surround. This was the point where the Reliance started to droop so I worried that I murdered it. I also noted that the fruitlets on the Arctic were showing webbing which only reinforced the idea that I did/have been doing something very wrong. Hopefully if that is the case I will learn from it and others can avoid similar mistakes.
Just as an fyi, sulfur can cause russeting. Mixing with oils, or high temps makes it more likely. I’m not sure if combining sulfur with Surround would increase the chance of russeting or not.
If the soil was extremely saturated, it might possibly be the amount of rain which caused the droop, but you’ve probably already thought of that.
I’ve mistakenly mixed oil with sulfur before so I’m at least cautions about that. I figured with the heavy drenching and the span of 10 days I was safe to hit them. Maybe I was wrong. It would be nice if there was an indicator beyond time that you could look to when you make that switch. Maybe there is and I am just unaware.
The rains have been weird this year. That heavy bout was basically all we picked up over the past month. The next forecast rain is on Saturday at least.
Why struggle endlessly with growing fruit that isn’t going to thrive in your climate. Try grafting an alternate fruit such as shiro plum (or other) that will likely do well in your climate. I had my heart set on peaches, apricots, and nectarines, but I’m now converting the majority of their scaffolds to plums, (which grow far more reliably in my climate).
Just saying, sometimes it’s just not worth the effort for a once a decade bountiful crop return.
I agree. If possible I’ll graft something else in. The tree seems like it is in good shape to harbor grafts. I did attempt some stone fruit grafts but none of them took. Well thats not true, my cherry grafts took.
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I think that should be sufficient to reasonably identify a common pome fruit genus.