Bought some of those bagged strawberrie roots local. 10 for $4. Does anyone have any experience with those? Are they worth buying any more?
looks like pear or quince. Round leaves with fuzzy underside makes me think quince, serrated edges make me think pear.
Do you think it’s the rootstock and can you remember what rootstock you thought it was?
Thanks @benthegirl, I am sure it is just root stock, so the most likely possibilities would be. Provence Quince or OHxF87.
I have tried those a few times. Every time they died. Once, the ones on the outside of the bag looked kind of alive but when I got it home and opened it, the whole thing was completely dried and dead.
I’ve never actually gotten any that looked as good as bare root strawberries in the Nourse videos for example (which have planting instructions). So maybe if they looked okay, they’d work.
I’m pretty sure OHxF 87 aren’t hairy on the bottom. So I think quince.
Just in case, the link has pictures of OHxF 87 leaves.
That is what I was hoping given where it is growing. Thanks again!
i grew out 6 of those plants 2 years ago. between the bunching onions, walking onions and potato onions, ill never need to buy onions again.
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I’m looking to get potato onions to add to the “forever onion” gang. when is the best time to plant and where should i get those? I’ve had them before and I’m a fan.
i have a lot of the catawissa and egyptian walkers going already. best to grab bulbils late summer and replant then or in fall. are potato onions a spring planting though?
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i got mine from someone on here from idaho. i would think you could plant them anytime.
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They fruit on wood that is 2-5 years old. After year 5 they are in productive. Some take a little longer tho if they don’t grow big enough. My poorman is fruiting this year for first time and it’s 3 years in ground.
The main thing about gooseberries is good air flow and pruning out really old wood when they get old for the cane rejuvenation.
My suggestion is let them run wild first few years.
Between thorned raspberry and blackberry, which are more deer resistant? Or neither?
There’s plenty of wild wineberry and blackberry near me that fruit with a lot of deer pressure. I would be surprised if there’s that much of a difference but I’m not 100% sure
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I just planted a Cox Orange Pippin on M111, and now I’m learning all about how susceptible it is to disease and feeling some buyers remorse.
Down the line, if it isn’t producing very well, can I topwork it? And if so, will the disease-susceptibility affect the variety I graft onto it?
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You can top work it. Or even graft a second variety on now or next spring.
You should ask in your regional chat or tell us where you are. For apple recommendations- zone 8 is really different in the south vs the west, etc.
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I’m in the PNW, Portland specifically. So pretty wet spring season.
The Cox orange has a reputation, but you may be heartened to know I planted one in NE NC which is a very hostile area and the weather between 2002-2008 while growing the tree was truly awful. I was told by the seller it probably would not live to bear. It grew and it bore fruit.
The Cox Orange is a low vigor tree, but not as low vigor in the south as the Honeycrisp or the Northern Spy. I found it to be more blight resistant than many other varieties such as the Red June, Williams Favorite, Hewes Crab, Albemarle Pippin, Esopus Spitz, Blue Ridge King. It sees less scab than the Caville Blanc d’Hiver. It will certainly need fungicide.
M111 is probably the ideal rootstock to experience the COP. It will probably end up being a 12’ tree instead of an 18-20’ tree.
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Cox’s Orange Pippin on M111 (planted in spring 2016) has been quite vigorous for me. I have to do a lot of summer pruning to keep it in check. Otherwise, it has developed a great, solid framework on M111 and is a really nice-looking tree. I have trained and pruned it to an open-center shape.
As far as its reputation goes, mine gets some rot in my no-spray program, and I’m planning to prune the new growth more aggressively to improve airflow.
My tree also seems to be a shy bearer. I’d love to see more flowers, like I get on my other apple trees.
A couple of weeks ago, I added some grafts just to include more varieties and, hopefully, get more fruit.
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i have a 4 yr. old hybrid minuchin aronia i grafted over to pear over the last couple years. went to prune it today 3 of the 2 yr. old grafts put out 4-5ft. of growth last summer! my 5 yr. old mtn. ash to pear barely out out 12in. i know you guys south of me have had that type of growth on mulberry and such. ive never seen growth like that on any tree other than black locust. 2 of them grew so long the shoot weighed itself down into a horizontal spiral. i should of took a pick before i cut it. ive never fertilized this tree. just mulch. maybe hybrid vigor? got about 20 fruit buds on them. had to cut them back to 2nd year wood or the new growth would have broke those branches this summer for sure. its ok as its at 7-8ft. now which is high enough for me. very cool tree. the bark is whitish gray like its aronia parent. it was ivans belle i believe. mtn. ash / aronia cross.
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Dug up some garlic that was left from last year. They were clumps of single bulbs with new growth. I separated them and replanted. Will they form cloves?
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Anyone had problems with winter loss of Chuchupaka persimmon? I grafted three last summer, all three took. One showed sluggish growth of 12-16 inches but the other two grew 3-5 ft. All three died this last winter. All other varieties grafted have survived and most have put on 2-3” of growth already this spring. Winter low was around 5 degrees.
I also unexpectedly lost 4 dwarf everbearing mulberries, (the only survivor was a potted one outside all winter), and my only Gerardi appears dead. The everbearing were supposed to be my rootstock for several scions I purchased.
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