Were the mulberry in pots or in ground?
@Robert I am no garlic expert but I have some elephant garlic and it grows like that in year one, then does the clove thing in year two.
I also planted some bulbils last year and they are supposed to have just one clove in year one- but I haven’t dug them up yet to look.
So maybe they will take two years?
the four that died were in ground, the only one that survived was in a 3 gallon pot and much smaller than the others. The original was planted in 2023, the others were from cutting started and planted in 2024. There Gerardi was grafted to one last spring. The potted one is probably root bound since it been potted since summer of 2024.
mine do- that’s how i replant mine. i don’t buy new cloves just replant single old ones or split up the clump of babies
it’ll be next year they’ll have cloves, they need the winter to form those.
I planted my Chuchupaka in 2024 and it survived the last 2 winters unprotected, with lows of -12F last year, and -8F this year. It is late to push buds in spring, but that is an extremely desirable trait to me since most of my other persimmons get hit by late spring freezes so easily.
anyone familiar with the regulations around germination rates on packages and when theyre required? a bunch of my seeds came without them from a supposedly reputable company and ive been having REALLY bad germination rates with them. some varieties 0%
So when next year would they be ready to pull?
I’m a little surprised at how each leftover has so many single bulbs clumped together. If I continued to plant like that it seems like the better way to do it. It would actually increase the supply.
Ugh. I just ordered one on sale to replace my diy tower of doom.
That’s very neat! Are they all European pear? I’m wondering if Asian will work.
I got some perlite to try and lighten soil up, I can only think maybe the deep parts are staying wet? Feels like maybe drip irrigation daily in well draining soil should help solve the problem
European Pear Rust, maybe?
Not a ton of infected fruitlets yet, so is my best option to just remove the infected ones from the tree and hope for the best?
yes. i do have a housi i plan to graft a euro to. and vice versa. they usually are compatable.
I mean Asian to aronia?
im sure it could. if euros. take asians should as well. its not a pure aronia. a Russian hybrid of mountain ash and aronia. the same breeder also did a mtn. ash / hawthorn cross. the one i have is even more vigorous than the mtn. ash which grows pretty fast here. its also very tolerant to wet soils like both its parents. loves my heavy clay but i did start it on a mound.
summer, same time as regular ones. they make the split into cloves during cold weather then get fat through about mid summer.
I’m intrigued. You have pear tops grafted on sorbaronia roots, is that right? Where did you source the aronia x? I’m not getting very good results in my searches. It’s not a hybrid I’d heard of before, but sounds like it might be a good match to our soil here.
Sorry. It was my only idea! Mulberry in 6b seem to have a lot of wood die, but not roots. Also I don’t know specifics about Gerardi - maybe someone else can chime in.
yes. it came from one green world. called ivans belle. i didnt like the berries so i grafted to pears. ivans beauty was crossed with hawthorn. ivan minuchins babies. i also have pears on american mtn. ash. his were w/ euro mtn. ash. i think shipova pear is one of his crosses as well. i need to get some wood of that one.
I’m in the process of consolidating and culling my apple tree situation, and have a GD tree that is very blight prone. It’s probably on a M106 or M7 and is 18 years old. Does it make sense to over-graft or topwork this tree with more blight resistant varieties, or would it be more sensible cut the damn thing down and plant new trees? I have no experience topworking sketchy trees that may have latent blight all over. I’m proposing over grafting with Hawaii and Chehalis. I’m extremely impressed with the Hawaii in terms of vigor. Such an awesome variety thus far but is it worth the risk?
You could graft it over and plant it’s replacement pretty close. Who knows how much life the original has left, but you will get fruit a lot quicker with it than a new one. I love Hawaii. Have two trees of it and they are all stars in every way.
Need recommendations for a pot for a citrus tree that came in a tree pot. Something a bit larger, but more importantly, something that won’t tip over. I don’t think the standard 3 gallon (or whatever 2.5gal) nursery pots are tall enough.
How good/bad are the bags of Miracle Gro Citrus/Cactus potting soil at the big box stores for making up the volume difference?
Tree is a Yuzu on US942.
