Questions not deserving of a whole thread


#1885

Do these leaves look like gooseberry? The fruits do. The tree looks way too big to be a gooseberry. Could it be a hybrid?


#1886

Looks like Hazelnut


#1887

@nil
I would guess a type of hawthorn, crataegus sp…
many kinds


#1888

I was going to say that gooseberries do not grow as trees but then did some googling.


#1889

I have 3 paw paws that have been limping along for the last 4 or 5 years. They are only about 2 feet high. I fertilized them and made sure to weed around them as faithfully as I could. They still look rather pathetic . . . but we had our first bloom this year! Sorry . . . it’s a little blurry. But, very interesting blooms. I’d never seen one before. And, at first, I didn’t know what it was!!!


#1890

If you have another flower from a different variety then hand pollinate it with a small paint brush so you can get the fruit this year. If no cross pollination then the flower will drop in several weeks. Unless it is a self fruitful Sun flower variety.


#1891

It was my one and only bloom. And the ‘trees’ are not even 3’ tall. Sigh. Thanks for the suggestion, though! Maybe next year.


#1892

I planted Shenandoah and Mango pawpaws in 2015. Shenandoah has bloomed since 2017. No pollination partner. I tried getting pollen from other people’s pawpaws. It did not work.

I’ve not quite mastered the timing for cross pollinating pawpaws yet. It is not as easy as cross pollination other fruit flowers.


#1893

Received this Carmine Jewel Cherry from Spring Hills Nurseries. Roots were quite dry and leafing out sickly yellow. Immediately put it in water and then got it planted. Should I immediately ask for a replacement or do you think it will survive ok? ThanksIMG_0947


#1894

From what I can see, it looks fine.

Scott


#1895

Can maypop (passiflora incarnate) grow up this tree, or does it need a structure with thinner supports? What about magnolia vine (Schisandra chinensis)?


#1897

What kind of tree is this? Yes they would both be able to vine up it with some guiding and depending on how much sun you have those may need more than just partial shade.


#1898

It’s a magnolia tree, doesn’t quite get full sun but it was pruned recently so has few branches. I’d like to hide the pruning a bit and utilize the structure.

How would you help guide them up?

I’m in the PNW zone 8a.


#1899

Very gorgeous tree and nice blossoms! I very much like the bark. I would use a bamboo stake or a small log to guide them up into it or maybe onto the pergola (unless that spot is taken). Both of those do good in partial shade but produce much more with sun. Since your in PNW more sun the better i think? You can wait till they get longer growing them towards the sun and then go wrap them where you want them and their tendrils will grab on to it in a day or so for the maypop the shisandra is much slower to wrap and needs more time as it does not have tendrils (that i have seen) like the maypop.


#1900

Thanks I do love this old tree but I’m sad about the pruning, around the other side are some stubby branches that I’d like to cover and if whatever grows there would arch out over the pathway that would be nice. That’s what the climbing rose on the trellis does, and it forms a kind of a tunnel through there with a nice humid woodland microclimate.


#1901

I don’t find passiflora incarnata to be a very reliable climber. Sure it vines and will ramble, it really doesn’t cling well for me. (at least not where I’ve wanted it or encouraged it) It also is deciduous (dies to the ground yearly for me, granted I’m in zone 6b)

Magnolia vine will climb a tree (especially if you help it along). The vine does lose its leaves for me, but continues regrowth from where it left off for me from year to year.

Scott


#1902

I have kind of an Odd question and I can’t find that much information to answer it. I have been doing mostly whip and tongue grafts with my My fruit trees. The idea is to try and put more than one variety on the tree by grafting a new variety on to a developing scaffolding branch. I know this is widely done on this website and everywhere else but my question is where the graft is attached does it make the branch weaker? So for example I have purchased a Oh Henry Peachtree and plan to do four scaffolding branches one of A different variety than all the rest. Oh Henry, Haro diamond, Cresthaven and elberta. Am I going to end up with a bunch of trees five years from now that have weak scaffolding branches where it is grafted?


#1903

Yes, probably.

I’ve been told how to whittle the interstem (the branch) prior to attaching the graft, as though it were crucial to maintaining the ultimate strength of the graft union to make either a horizontal or a vertical cut, but I can’t remember which is correct. In fact, I believe I’ve seen both ways advocated vociferously, so I’m just gonna leave this here and enjoy whatever controversy ensues.

Some say that your scion will fall out if you make a vertical cleft. Others say that your interstem will split under load if you make a horizontal cleft. I sort of lean toward making a vertical cleft.


#1904

Well dang! So would there be a better way to graft scaffolding branches on to the tree??


#1905

Do you think it would be better to basically top graft a new section on the tree every year and pick one scaffolding branch from each section? so in the end it would have four small sections grafted into the trunk. So then the graft originates in the trunk of the tree and not wear it there is a weight pushing down in it?

Like this but 4 times.