Ranking of varieties of cherries, only "high quality" varieties

My goodness, you have the Rootpac-R rootstock from Agromillora available at the Burchell nursery.
That rootstock is a fucking wonder, it’s vigorous and resistant to everything.
An intermediary graft of the Adara plum tree is carried out, which is within the reach of many people in this forum, and a good variety of cherry tree on the Adara , and that is the “NON PLUS ULTRA” of a cherry tree.

I will explain how to do it all in one year.

Regards
Jose

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Great stuff as usual @Jose-Albacete

I revisited the Adara thread and see besides a few folks here, others have had trouble finding it for sale.

If anyone knows or finds a US source please post. My brief attempts at even searching g the name adara really only brings up the aforementioned adara thread from this forum.

I’d be happy simply to source the tree itself and use cuttings for myself and anyone who wants it.

Hi guys .
What was promised is debt, and today I will explain how to double graft the cherry tree all in one year, without wasting time establishing the rootstock on the ground.
First of all I clarify some concepts.

  • The cherry tree is a very very rustic fruit variety, which needs very little care (if everything is done correctly from the beginning)

  • The cherry tree is a fruit variety, which hates excessive watering, so it will be watered just and necessary (in humid soils it is essential to choose a rootstock resistant to root suffocation and waterlogging, for example Rootpac-R)

  • The cherry tree is a fruit variety that does not need fruit thinning.

  • The cherry tree, is a variety, which has practically no fungal disease (in warm lands), in humid lands, it is enough to choose varieties of cherries resistant to monilia and other fungal diseases.

  • The cherry tree is a fruit variety , which has practically no pests , the cherry tree fly " Drosophila suzukii " , of which there is no presence in my region and few other bugs .

  • Once the cherry tree has passed the period of formation of the structure (4 years), it will only require a high winter pruning, simply so that we can harvest all the cherries by hand, without the need for stairs

That said , if everything is done right from the beginning , the cherry tree is a fruit variety that " practically grows itself " .

There are several techniques to perform the two grafts needed in a single year, today we will focus on one of them, which is the Chip Budding system.

Let’s go with the photos:

In this first photograph, we see a sprouted Chip Budding graft, which at first glance doesn’t look like anything special (but has science behind ).

If we move the photograph away a bit , we will see it with a better perspective .

Now we see the Royal Lafayette variety grafted by chip budding system , and we’ll take a look at the whole thing.

Marked with a red arrow, we see the rootstock itself. In my case, since my land is very arid, and with a high Ph, I need a hybrid almond x peach rootstock, since it resists drought very well, and the high Ph .

In Europe we have two varieties of this type of rootstock:

  • GF-677
  • GxN 15 Garnem
    In the United States you have the rootstock “Titan”, with the same characteristics
    This type of rootstoocks, is for arid and calcareous soils, for another type of terrain, you can ask me which is the appropriate rootstock.

In January 2023 I bought the rootstocks, and they were planted in pots (that is, they are 6 months old in my hands).

Now let’s see the arrow marked in black.
It is a Monrepos plum cutting (Adara is also valid), to make the GxN 15 Garnem rootstock compatible with cherry, and it was grafted using the whip and tongue technique at the beginning of March .

And now we look at the arrow marked with a blue line, and it is easily identifiable.
It is a graft made using the Chip Budding technique of the variety of cherry Royal Lafayette , carried out in mid-May (it is about 20 days old).

That is to say that the whole process has taken a time of only 5 months, and at the end of summer, the stem will measure at least 50 centimeters, it will be planted in the ground in winter, and when in spring it reaches 60-70 centimeters, I will decapitate it by cutting it at a height of 40 cm.

This is a very effective method, but somewhat slow hahahahahaha.
Tomorrow I will explain another technique " INFINITELY FASTER " .

Regards
Jose

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FYI.

Burchell nursery is a commercial wholesale business.

So us home growers are still stuck with finding a retail source for things like Adara or finding a nursery that will place an order from Burchell as the middle man.

Tomorrow I will send an email to Burchell nursery, explaining the problem for the North American amateurs fruit growing , to be able to buy rootstock resistant to root suffocation and waterlogging, and if there is a possibility that they will make an exception and sell you Rootpac-R rootstock, even if it is in one purchase unified.

It’s not the first time I’ve dealt with this type of situation with nurseries (they are generally very closed minded), but there are times when you find a good person who understands the problem and agrees to sell to the hobbyists.
It is also possible that they inform us in which retail nursery you can buy the Rootpac-R rootstock.

If they answer me affirmatively, it is as easy as opening a new post so that those interested can join a joint purchase.

Let’s see what they answer me.

Regards
Jose

P.S. : I hope my English is understandable, because Google’s translator is a botch

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Wow @Jose-Albacete. That would be incredible. Good luck for all of us.

When I called I was asking for the Adara and did not ask about the rootpac-r…though I’d imagine the answer would have been the same.

The lady I spoke with was nice enough. I called a few retail nurseries around the area and one I spoke to (Sunset or Sunrise nursery?) said that perhaps an order could be placed in the fall for next year, but he wasn’t sure.

I understand of course the commercial nurseries are running a business and selling a few trees or rootstock to home growers is not how they’d best be spending their time, but I of course hope there is a way around it.

Thanks for your input and help. If a few folks are able to obtain rootpac-r or Adara (for instance) I’m sure we would be more than happy to provide cuttings for others through this forum.

I can’t even order one Brooks from one online nursery, it has to be 5. I think home gardener has limited choices.

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Fast Growing Trees seems to have Brooks you can order only 1 from, but expensive ($139.95).

From what I can see Brooks was patented in 1984 so it should be decades clear of the expiration.

Wondering about scion for Brooks available somewhere…

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If I pay for 5 trees, that would be the equivalent amount including shipping, so thanks but no thanks . I will go to my local place and pick up one. Maybe they have it as bareroot, much cheaper. They quoted me $59 for 5xgallon, but they don’t have it at the moment.

You’re lucky to be able to do so living where you do.

Maybe folks will hit you up for scion late winter coming.

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I think I did some googling and Gurney’s have it for $39, but it’s out of stock right now. But the picture doesn’t look like a Brooks, its supposed to be deeper color according to DWN.

https://www.wheretobuy.davewilson.com/product-information/product/brooks-cherry

I think I saw 3 different looking photos for Brooks when I looked so I’d imagine some web pages are using generic stock cherry photos which doesn’t lead to much confidence.

Read it’s highly susceptible to cracking so as attractive as it might be as a self fertile variety (with a wide range of published chill hours which is also disconcerting) would be a no go for me with 60+ inches of rain a year.

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I have not a lot of rain here except last year, but I trust DWN number than Gurneys on chill hours.

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Tremendous duo, SoCal and Phil.

Do not pay, more than $15 for a bare root cherry tree.

Look:

  • Brooks cherry tree bare roots in winter, with a good rootstock for €8 (8.7 US dollars)

A couple things :

  • The Brooks variety has a medium grade of resistance to cracking, but this year I have had quite a few rains right at the end of Brooks’ ripening period (at which time its sensitivity is highest), and not even a 2% of the harvest had cracking.

So I would give this variety a resistance to cracking “medium-high”

  • Secondly, I would not buy a Brooks cherry tree from a nursery that is not specialized in cherry trees, since I do not trust a reseller nursery for buy the legitimate Brooks variety.

My advice :

I am sure that you both know how to graft, so I consider that the most appropriate, and best, is the following.

Both buy some Colt rootstocks in winter (this rootstock is available in American nurseries).
You request some scions from the U.C. Davis of the Brooks variety (and maybe some more variety ).

https://fps.ucdavis.edu//treedetails.cfm?v=312

And the U.C. Davis, will send you scions of the Brooks variety 100% legitimate .
And you simply carry out the grafts using the whip and tongue system , just after the winter frosts ( with the rootstock still in a state of dormancy ) .
The cherry tree is the fruit variety that is grafted first.

That simple.

How many chill houres do you have?

It is for find a suitable pollinator for Brooks in your climate.

Regards
Jose

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Thanks @Jose-Albacete, I think I have about 400-500. I think I’m going to order Brooks, Early Burlat, Coral Champagne. I already ordered a Stella that I can graft these scions to, rootstock is Krymsk.

I have a apricot Bleinheim which has 400 chill hours according to UCDavis site.

I have been thinking of colt and a simple single graft as well since we’ve already encountered the issue with other water tolerant rootstock and interstem availability issues for the backyard, retail market herein the US.

For me the chill hours locally are quite variant. Even knowing how to calculate it isn’t simple because with the proper chill range temps we also have many hours above 60, 70 degrees F between cold spells, which some systems start subtracting hours for. I’m listed at zone 9a here which is printed as 300-500 hrs. This is from the state university Ag department. I’ve certainly had winters above 500 but also have some on the low end.

Again a reminder that not having fruit set for a warm winter year is not the end of the world for me…as long as the tree stays healthy I can wait for the next year. My area gets 60+ inches of rain a year (1524 mm), so a wet soil tolerant rootstock is a must…and whatever diseases are associated with it. Pruning can handle tree size, so dwarfing rootstock isn’t a must.

I already have (first year in the ground) lapins, Minnie Royal, Royal Lee, and Royal Crimson I can take scion wood from. I’ve read all the posts you’ve made about some of these varieties and, because I only have a few trees, I am more than happy to spend time thinning fruit. That seems to be your biggest issue with some of these low chill varieties available to us non-commercial growers.

So any other suggestions would be welcome. Hopefully I can find scions for some of these other varieties. I’d have a wish list for a lighter colored variety as well if it exists. Royal Rainier?

Thanks

Edit: the current cherry trees I just planted are on Mazzard, Maxma, and Krymsk5

I checked on UCDavis, minimum order is $150, thanks but no thanks.

Damn, that’s new.
I bought scions last winter for less than $150.
Well, then the most appropriate would be this.

Since Brooks is a variety that is marketed by the Dave Wilson nursery.

You have to call or send an email, so that they can tell you which is your closest retail nursery to your population that has the Brooks cherry variety in winter, to send it bare root and grafted on a suitable rootstock for you.

Regards
Jose

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SoCal, I already have a good solution.

In Willis orchard and Nursery are available two varieties, at a more or less reasonable price ($35), ideal for you and are also compatible in pollination:

  • Brooks
  • Tulare

Regards
José

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Gurney’s nursery. It also has both varieties.
Now they are out of stock, because they do not send trees in a vegetative state, but in winter they will be available.
In this nursery they are a little more expensive, but if the cherries they are grafted on Colt, it is worth spending a few more dollars.

Regards
Jose

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