Yes, please show some pictures of your HC apple tree.
. I was trying to post pics but I guess I do not see an easy way to post them here. No link to click to.
Not sure how I can post pics.
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I thought you want to see the leaves so I took pics of leaves, not the rree. Now it is too dark. I will take a pic if the whole tree tomorrow.
@scottfsmith posted how to post pic in another thread. I canāt remember which one.
@scottfsmith, could you please post that instruction here for Mike?
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It was on this threadā¦
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Yes, mine look like that. All the leaves are variegated like a house plant. Iād like to see more leaves if you could take more pictures. I thought my tree was mineral deficient. It was odd because no other tree in that area has leaves that look that poorly.
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I will try this and see if it works. Thank you!
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Scott,
Have I told you that I have poor memory? 
I just proved it!!!
Thank you.
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If you google Honeycrisp leaf yellowing, you will see articles from U of Michigan and U of MN discussing this genetic disorder.
If such leaf yellowing show up on other apples or other plants, there is a good chance of a nutrient deficiency issue.
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just chopped my 4 yr old lodi apple with a decent crop on it. has blight and i read its very susceptible to most diseases. too bad as it was growing well and had about 2 doz. apples developing. picked it up for cheap at tractor supply. i should have done more research on this cultivar before planting it. donāt want it to infect my other berries and trees that are nearby! going to replace it next spring with a princess that is a similar early apple but a lot more disease resistant. live and learn!
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A large mature apple (think its mcintosh)ā¦horrible spotā¦horrible production. Leaf issues/the works. Only reason i kept it around is its shading part of the house. Moniqui is going and so is my nectacotā¦bad spot///may bud them over to other trees in case i regret the decision laterā¦
Some black walnuts i let grew for some reasonā¦lazinesā¦they are huge now and i need to take them down before the become too large. Plus having a black walnut around full of walnuts is probably squirrel magnet material.
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The whole HC tree, about 9 ft tall( not counting those sticking up branches). On an unknown rootstock. Potted tree planted in 2008. The must be around 10-11 years old. Haphazardedly pruned to a modified central lead if one can call it that.
Biennial. Produced apples in 2013 (only a few apples),
2015 ( loaded)
2017 (loaded but I pruned off more than half of flower clusters)
The pic is a good example of what not to do. Do not plant trees too close to one another !!!
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Most of the squirrels I relocate are in the walnut trees.
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The HC tree looks great epecially hanging with fruit. I had about given up on the scions I grafted in but seeing this picture make me want to wait longer. I still think my main problem is that I donāt get enough chill hours for it to leaf and flower correctly. Oh well I think I will give it another two years. Bill
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Bill,
I think zone 7 is the limit. Zone 5-6 are probably the most suitable zone for HC. Too hot, it will has more issues.
If I were to do it again, I would grow HC on the same rootstock Appleseed/ Jeff does. His tree oroduces heavily every year.
The biennial issue is not a good thing as it is my largest apple tree in the orchard. I now have grafted almost 20 varieties on it. I canāt wait every other year to eat my own apples 
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I have a hard time giving up on a tree but I think my problem with HC is out of my control. Goldrush appears to be doing well here but I already have 2.5 trees converted to it. There is a nearby orchard that successfully grows HC but he told me that he sprays his with a chemical (unavailable to back yarders) that adds the same thing as extra chill hours to his.
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That is usually the case with trying to find sprays like the commercial orchards use. The products available are for their use only OR they are so expensive since you have to buy a 55 gallon drum of something that you only need maybe a quart of.
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about to remove one of my Dorsett Goldensā¦for some reason the tree never thrived. A couple months back I noticed something was going on with the top leaves. They looked like they were drying upā¦Then as the weather turned hotter it appeared it was dying from the top downā¦no sign of insect damage and the roots seem to be holding fast for now, but the section of the tree I cut away the sap wood was brown so something obviously killed itā¦this will be the 4th or 5th tree Iāve lostā¦while it still hurts, itās not as bad as the first one.
also have a meyer lemon Iāve been hanging on to for far too long thatās not doing wellā¦very little foliage, nothing like my other citrus, but it has fruit on it and is pushing new growth so I plan to see how it looks by the end of the summer and will decide if I want to invest any more time in itā¦
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Auburn: I read on orangepippin.com a note where someone recommended using MM106 as a root stock when you want to bump up the bloom time of a cultivar. It might work for your Honeycrisp to compensate for chill hours.
I cannot say if it works as the chill hours in WA are already extremely high (about 2100 hours in my zone 5/6 region. There has been no need to bump up bloom among my trees.)
BTW, Iām seeing a bit of yellowing on the Medaille dāOr - if it truly is that cv. Iāll give it plenty of compost and dolomite this fall to soak in over the winter for next season, mulch well and hope. Should take care of the mild yellowing.
What has me wondering about this tree are two factors: fruit is already larger than expected for debut sample crop (about 2 1/2 Inches both directions) and complete lack of russeting. They look like Granny Smith, but bloomed last, as expected. GS is listed as a mid-season bloomer and pretty disease resistant, and this one had the only fire blight strike Iāve found among my young trees. I donāt think it is Edward VII, which would match bloom time and smooth skin. Hmm.
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This evening, I took out my original Satsuma plum, planted in 2012. I planted it only 5 ft away from a Shiro plum and a Black Gold cherry. All of them have grown like crazy with branches crossing one another.
After looking at the mess, I had enough. Hubby helped sawing it off at the base. After the tree was taken out, the space between the rest of the trees is much better. I think it was a right decision. It was easier to make because I have another Satsuma nearby,
Since we had a saw in hands, many branches of plums and peaches came down as well. Anything that grew too big, out of proportion, wrong directions, too low, too high, etc. came off. Tomorrow itās applesā and pearsā turn.
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Thanks
I should probably be regularly updating here as I am always removing many things. Here are a few I plan to remove this winter.
American Summer Pearmain - a perfectly decent apple but its not setting very well after plenty of years, and its not all that interesting. In general I donāt eat many summer apples so only the very best get to stay.
Jefferis - this is a very nice late summer apple, but its quite prone to going mealy. Again, Iām super picky on apples of this season so its gone. Ginger Gold for example is a similar season but it will keep and never has gone mealy on me.
Steeleās Red - A decent but not great apple, similar to Wagener in being mild and fruity but not comparable to Wagener.
De lāestre - a huge yellow apple, boring flavor cooker only and probably not so good for that.
Reinette du Mans - has a nice savory flavor but an extreme rotter, Iām sick of it rotting every year.
Calville Blanc dāHiver - I will probably keep this a bit longer but its also a heavy rotter in my orchard. The differences from variety to variety on rotting can be very large. One new apple which is not rotting at all for example is Fall Pippin. Its a somewhat boring apple, but the fruits are perfection. My Calville is not far from a loaded Shizuka tree which has very little rot. Also Calville is really only a cooker so that is another strike on it as there are many great dual-purpose apples. Another heavy rotter like Calville is Reinette Clochard, but Clochard is MUCH more flavorful than Calville, its a āwowā.
Shui Mi Tao honey peach - this peach is extremely prone to bugs and rot, I may give it one more year or maybe not. It also loves to drop fruits. I got a few really good ones last year but this year all were mediocre.
Pearl plum - another extreme bug magnet and I didnāt get any that were particularly tasty.
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