Rubus Breeding

I bought a 5 pack of Joan J from Burpee this year. It is my first time growing raspberry. Can anyone confirm this is a good color for the foliage? They are planted in 1/2 GH Coco-tek, 1/3 peat, 1/6 landscaping sand. They were fed 10-5-14 hydroponic nutrient at a rate of 1 dry tsp per gallon; 1-2 tsp/gallon is the standard rate. Should I give them a heavier dose, or ride it out? I don’t know how dark the leaves should be at this age.


The bottles are there for color comparison.

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they look good. rasp. new growth is light colored. they will darken when they get older.

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That’s normal young growth and I would probably fertilize them again once they have dried out 2x or so. Raspberries probably want you to give em some iron and Epsom salts next watering

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Would the normal amount of iron and magnesium in the hydroponic solution be enough? I will probably be buying iron based moss killer soon, would that be a solution?

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It would be fine but more would help I think. I would add some worm castings or a little fishbone meal to supplement.

I would not use the chelated iron weed killer products as that iron is too available which is how it kills seedlings by too much iron uptake

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Despite what others are saying no that is not a good color the roots are in trouble. The mix is too dense, it needs DE or perlite or pine bark so it is not as compact. Everything you’re using is of a very fine grade. Yes new growth can look like that but all of the plants, every bit of them is that color, that is concerning. If the roots cannot breath no amount of nutrient will be absorbed. I would be very light on feeding young plants. At most 1/3 of a regular dose of fertilizer. I would wait though to feed, they need a better mix that is the problem. The color is a nutrient deficiency caused by the roots being unable to get enough oxygen to function properly. A quick fix is to water with 2/3 water 1/3 H2O2 (Hydrogen peroxide). If not corrected root rot will take hold.

I don’t have any good rubus examples, but let’s look at this fig I rooted in pure DE recently. I’m about to up pot it to soil. The new growth is lighter, but look how green older growth is? Nothing is that old. This plant rooted 5 weeks ago it’s in it’s 2nd month of growth. Anyway this is what you want to see. The only way to add nutrients to my fig is by watering as the growing medium has no nutrients.

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I have used perlite many times, but I wanted to use sand. I will be planting these in the ground. My concern is how long they take to green up. I don’t think there is a lack of root oxygen.

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Healthy Joan J sucker grown in far worse soil. Plant made over 20 suckers 1st year in #3 pot. Mine are a little darker, not much at all.

Go very light on fertilizer when young or none, then ramp up. Plant color depends on light in addition to other factors. More light = lighter color until red and burning set in.

Sand works fine for drainage although 1/6th is a bit small. Anything you intend to plant in native soil should have 30-50% native soil in its starting mix for fastest acclimation.

I would not recommend H202 in absence of clear issue (missing here) as it kills beneficial biologicals which from the description of your mix you are already lacking.

Whats your soil Ph for that mix? Nutrient uptake is a function of Ph and your mix is low on Ca and Mg.

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Yes, I could be wrong, you seem to know what you’re doing. Usually nutrient deficiencies is directly proportional to root health. It’s rare to see an actual deficiency as even soilless mixes has some nutrients.
I just showed you a fig growing in pure fossilized rock. I guess as mentioned it’s lack of light.

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The 50% Coco-tek coir has comparable drainage to perlite. Adding 5% perlite to Coco-tek makes it a perfect hydroponic medium, with an optimal air/moisture balance. It is not the waterlogged pithy crap they sell at big box stores. I have not added any organics to the mix because coir is never the same after you do. It becomes more moisture sensitive. Once the medium dries with all that microbial goo in the pores, it loses its miracle quality.

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Yeah I plant in pure coir with no perlite and my plants do absolutely fine and have ample amounts of root oxygen. You are correct and definitely needed to add nutrients to coco and are on the right path in general.

I do understand what you are talking about with the coir acidifying and breaking down but have had great success using organic amendments but also add beneficial fungi and bacteria.

I usually could get them 4’ and flowering by mid April and think you will have good success

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i like growing my seedlings in coir because its naturally anti bacterial so no dampening off. i like 2/3 coir and 1/3rd. coase D.E and they grow good and strong with a addition of some fish/ kelp emulsion later on for nutrients. i use the same mix to root cuttings.

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No. Autumn Fruiting Raspberries: keeping up with the Joans - Joan Morgan's Fruit Forum

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If you ever find a successful Salmonberry hybrid
Rubus spectablis
let me know.

I have a very good selection in my backyard of the Orange Salmonberry.

Any advice on good candidate for Salmonberry pollen?

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I wouldn’t call it advice, but I would try Rubus idaeus or Tayberry.

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Read about a couple of crosses made in the '90’s, dead ends as far as I can tell.

Raspberry Salmonberry ‘Olympic Double’ and ‘Pacific Rose’ - YouTube

re candidate: If you are looking for additional generations breading, diploids (x 6n is long shot, per DM), otherwise try the Joan J. It is an early, thornless, primocane tetraploid so these traits will be dominent. You should be able to make this cross this year and see fruit in next 2-3. :slight_smile:

Salmonberries are said to be very early. When do yours fruit?

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Yes interesting video
but
they are just Salmonberry
I’d like to get a hybrid from Salmonberry
crossed with a Raspberry.
My Salmonberry is starting to bloom now
I will freeze some pollen.

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im anxious to see how your orange salmonberry does here. i have one i got from rolling river 2 years ago. its got white blooms on it but the few i got didnt develop fruit. do you prune out floricanes after they fruit like what we do with raspberries?

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I really don’t bother to prune Salmonberry
most of the plants are in the wild.
I think the fruiting canes live for several years .

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I checked outside while I was spraying, and my Rubus ursinus have clusters of buds. Freedomberries are not far behind. I think there will be overlap in the bloom period. Only one Joan J is showing signs of flower buds, so I will put them on a heat mat at night to see if it speeds them up. I have a Tayberry on order, and I don’t know what state it will be in when it arrives.
Freedom


Rubus ursinus

The chlorothalonil should clear them up, but I have copper spray too.
I thought I might have a couple of ursinus x armeniacus hybrids, but now I am thinking they are Rubus ulmifolius, or ulmifolius x armeniacus. I did not photograph them.

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