So you must be using both sides of the knife with a single bevel, am I correct? You’d be rolling the knife over and using a different side of the single bevel for the finished product. I’ve wondered with a single bevel which side of the bevel you should use to get the flat plane on the stock you intend to use for the graft. Or doesn’t it matter? I’m not expressing what I’m thinking very well.
It is a tough question to write, Andy.
I’ll get back to you on that with visual representations.
Dax
I had to laugh, in a good way. I still have my Cub Scout knife as well. Now I’ll have to drag mine out for old time sake. My knife is so old I probably need to get it carbon dated. 
Great knife though.
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When I did a cleft the other day, the knife did want to collapse when I was pulling it out after making the cut. I had to be careful but not overly so. It is a sharp knife after all and care is needed.
It was well over an inch and half and I had no difficulty making the cleft. I would have struggled with a much smaller knife.
Right after that I cut some grafts in really thin scionwood and it was smooth as butter. I really love this knife.
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I turned this cheap Chicago Cutlery kitchen knife into a single bevel grafting knife yesterday as I was on the mend from the flu. 
I need a strop to get it really sharp, but my Lansky sharpening system worked pretty well after I took it back with a file. A strop and compound are on the way from Amazon.
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The answer is no I don’t have a problem cutting on the non-bevel side of the blade. When I rotate the scion away from my body to freshen up a long bark cut where thin and often curling layers of wood are being removed… it doesn’t make a difference. Now if I were going to graft full time as a lefty, I’d need the bevel on the other side.
Dax
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I have that knife in my kitchen. All my kitchen silverware are second hand.
Dax