Lets see if this help. Also fish fertilizer is great but not as strong figs may need. I used to put two scope Osmocote plus per five gallon container and more for bigger before every spring plus 20-20-20 water soluble every two week for first three months of growing season. In five gallons container I used to get 20 to 40 figs and more in bigger container. Since main crop only forms on new growth so you want good vegetative growth too. I am sharing what was working for me. I do not grow many figs in container anymore due to time limit just couple one year figs in container.
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Last year was my first year with it. To me they were very good and close to Ronde De Bordeaux with less berry favor.
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I’m planning to fertilize again this week- it is very hot now and there are figs on all plants. still high N do you think for the containers? or go to npk with higher K?
I don’t want them to drop the fruit. I’ll need to be watering daily and deep.
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I think you can use balanced fertilizer which should help everything.
In July and Earlier part of August I used to put plant Saucer under container which hold some water and keep providing some moisture but remove it if we have a big rain.
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I’m keeping the ones in fabric pots in water daily, the others I flood the soil from top of pot. I’m still most worried for florea as it’s still a bit drooping but it is very hot. they are now in more bit of shade than before
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I agree that balanced fertilizer is good. You don’t need high nitrogen at this point.
Florea tends to be one of my thirstier varieties, which I’ve heard from others as well. I put mine in a larger pot this year, which has definitely helped with that issue compared to last year.
It’s not quite as bad as LSU Tiger though, which is my thirstiest fig of the ~35 varieties I have. I have to keep a close eye on that one. Other particularly thirsty figs include: RdB, Moscatel Preto, Smith, and Celeste. The LSU figs seem to have higher water needs in general though, as my LSU Champagne and Purple dry out faster than most others sometimes too.
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Very nice showing. I would love to learn if there is any trick for tight node space as showing in first picture.
Slower growth results in tight node spacing. So a bit less water and fertilizer. An older plant that isn’t pruned can result in very tight node spacing.
What results in long nodes is heavy pruning to give a high root/top ratio followed by lots of water and fertilizer.
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First main crop fig of the season. Salem Dark unprotected in ground very good and delicious turned color overnight . That was the only one which ripe while others are still looking green but can change color anytime.
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Here are a few figs this morning from my potted trees. We’ve got Ronde de Bordeaux, a couple Teramo, and a single Smith.
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It’s a simple, sugary sweetness with some fig flavor. Maybe similar to Florea but doesn’t split as much in the rain. It’s not a fig that wows me, but having some early figs is nice.
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Figs are ripening fast now. If we can avoid major rain for next few days , we will get top quality figs. These pictures are from my in ground no protection figs taken today. Salem dark and Hardy Chicago.
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@Preston wow! did you give Dalmatie a headstart? im in zone 6b WV ive been considering adding Dalmatie
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@Fishinjunky
No headstart. We had a decent spring here and the trees avoided all the late freezes that are normal for my area. I wrapped the trees with tarps to protect it during Jan-feb and unwrapped them in March. The Stella tree had the least amount of die back. Practically none.
I think it was just better insulated than the others.
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