This year I have been rooting with the 2 liter bottles and more recently I have added several vines into one pot as illustrated in the pictures below. The 2 liter bottles have worked well with hazels, muscadines, and looks promising with plums. I only need a few plants so these methods meets and exceeds my needs. Some years I give my extras to interest people.
Muscadine setup
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I usually just use plastic bags for airlayers on smaller diameter stuff but last year i decided to use these containers that berries are sold in and had good results.
They have the drain holes so it allowed for some air-prunining on the roots.
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What time of year do you do air layering?
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I tried my first air layer this year, and I let it dry out too much. But it has some roots and I’ve taken steps now, so I’ll see in a few weeks. I used a 1 quart yogurt container sliced lengthwise, and then taped up. I was afraid to disturb it to check the water. Next time I’ll know better.
As for the when I thought I should do it in the spring so that it could have a long season to root, with the ideal that I would take it after it went dormant.
Today I chip budded several apricot pieces to it. I’m hopeful that the temps will cooperate and some of them at least will take. Chips are the only thing I’ve had any success with on apricot, so fingers crossed.
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I usually like to girdle and wrap in sphagnum moss.
This one is a fig called I-258. It will be a huge (4foot tall ) ready made tree when it is removed.
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I’ve been wondering where the best spot to girdle in relation to the potting soil. I was thinking all the way at the bottom, so when you cut it off there is not a section below the girdle that is just going to die and maybe cause rot. But if the roots form just above the girdle, then they will not have much room and grow upwards, which isn’t all that good either.
I’ve never read specifics, and don’t really airlayer anymore but still wonder if anyone has ever tried it different ways…
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I have never girdled fig air layers and all worked. I did two this year. I prefer to do them early in the growing season. Both this year were removed three weeks ago and doing great. One grew figs.
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Later in the season I think it helps, and for older branches.
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Figs will root easily even without girdling and with just some scraping on older branches
BUT
If you want super fast and vigorous rooting, it is best to girdle and to scrape off all cambium. The difference is like walking vs driving a car. Both will get you there but one will get you there in a hurry.
I usually girdle just under the node so it roots at the node. Also scrape the node slightly and apply rooting hormone there.
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I loaded my hazels about two weeks before they leafed out. My muscadines had grown about a month before I set up the air layer. I’m pretty sure figs and muscadine could be rooted throughout most of the summer but you might get less root developement.
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I set up two 4-5’ hazels air layers just to see if I could get enough roots to support a larger tree.
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