Ok then thanks! I will wait them to start to crack. 
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@Luisport
In mild climates, some cultivars do not develop cracks until they are rotting in cool Fall temperatures. This is because those cultivars require more degree days than the climate can provide. For example, in my location “Eversweet” and “Soft Seeded Pink” always ripen but “Parfianca” is not reliable.
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There are any color that i can see to pick or not? Like a bit clear green to don’t pick or just all skin turned red?
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In my experience color is a poor indicator of ripeness in many tree fruits, including Pomegranate.
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Hello Richard,
I see that you’ve got quite a collection. What variety would you recommend for zone 9B (SF Bay area/not coastal)? I already have Parfianka and Ariana. I’m looking into Bala Miursal, Azadi, Sirenevyi, Desertnyi, and Medovyi Vahsha. I’d prefer a variety that doesn’t ripe at the same time with the pomegranates that I have. Thank you for your help!
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@opelecky
For pomegranates with a different flavor, consider Gissarskii Alyi and White Flower.
These require medium to high temperatures summer into fall, free of marine layer to ripen properly and develop full flavor. If you have that and a pomegranate juicer, I recommend trying Hotuni Zigar.
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Thank you, Richard! I just looked at the summer temperatures in Kara Kala city (where Dr. Gregory Levin was working) and they look close enough. It doesn’t get that unbearably hot here in the summer but I don’t think this should be an issue.
I am reading about the varieties that you mentioned. Do they ripe later or earlier than Parfianka and Ariana? Thanks again, Olga
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Well it’s true that Levin had his repository there, just as the USDA has theirs in Winters CA. Neither has anything to do with suitability for ripening - which a large number of collectors and agriculturists have been testing for two decades here in the U.S.
The ripening order and time will be driven by your climate and cultivation methods. For example, different orderings have been observed for Winters, Livermore, Gilroy, Modesto, and Exeter.
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Are you saying that the order of ripening is not always consistent? Very interesting. WOuld it be possible to take a look at this data? Thanks
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Ripening times of pears can be and frequently are different from one year to next at my location. It is all dependant on the weather. Pears are not pomegranate but fruits can switch ripening dates. If spring is cold and my trees bloom late the early crop is greatly delayed. If it warms up early the crop gets ripe much sooner. Pears that are normally a month apart can ripen together.
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It definitely varies by location, and as Clark points out - it can vary year to year.
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After observing this plant in my location for a number of years I’ve decided to try a different approach to pruning. Being a shrub, it had several basal shoots, now 3" to 4" diameter and easily 15’ high. There was one though somewhat central and vertical. So I removed all the others along with seedling shoots in the planter bed.
I pruned the central trunk up to a 6’ crotch and then topped those short scaffolds at 7’. This year I’m expecting no fruit but instead a dozen or two 5’ to 8’ whips above the crotch. I’ll also have growth start along the trunk but rub them out from now on. The topside whips will bloom next year and the weight of the fruit will lower most of them to around 4’. If next year the plant also grows new above-crotch whips then after harvest I’ll thin out the old whips, otherwise just shorten the existing whips a bit.
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This plant would rather be a bush, of course. After taking these photos I pulled all the suckers I could manage and gave the trunk a rub-down to remove the sprouts.
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Interesting if it weeps like that, good idea. Curious what you’re alluding to on the intent of the pruning method change. Is this likely to be easier for you to manage or is there some other benefit?
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With so many new branches forming off the trunk to choose from, and its weeping habit, I wonder if it would make a good espalier.
Mature pomegranate plants in my environment put out 4 to 7 foot whips each year, and the fruit is borne in the last 1/4 length of the whips. I can’t imagine an espalier that would be suitable for this.
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All the cuttings that you generously sent rooted for me, and most of those plants were given out to friends & family. I have one planted in the ground and another kept in a pot in case the inground one doesn’t survive our winter outdoor in 7A. I think I like the clean single trunk look and will train the inground tree that way if it survives.
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