T-budding tutorial

Did you have to tie those branches down or did they grow out like that.

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@Johnnysapples They grew like that. The pear rootstocks are incompatable with most pears. They fruited extremely fast like quince would do! The rootstocks grew identical to the pear tree. For whatever reason these seedling rootstocks have a lot more influence than normal over the pear scionwood.

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very informative thread. Reviving this to add my experience. I am grafting citrus now and tried both with and without the wood in the bud. Removing the wood for the latter is very hard and finicky with the thin budwoods from CCPP. Lets see how many will take.

Also, it is soooo much more easier to do the inverse T than the regular T on the rootstock. The starting point of the bud is the sharpest as I tend to start the cut from there. With inverted T, its easier to poke the separated bark with the sharp end of the bud and easily insert it.

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I have not had as much success with T budding cherry or peaches as I have with Chip budding. Cherries are so difficult to judge where cambium lies.

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Been getting pears for years now i grew using this tutorial. @fruitnut everyone appreciates you posting this!

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I finally looked at the pictures in this thread. It never occurred to me to leave the wood attached to the bud stick instead of trying to fish it out after cutting the bud free. Hopefully I’ll remember that.

Also, you say to cut fully through the bark but not into the wood. For T-buds and bark grafts, I make no effort to avoid cutting into the wood. I don’t see how it can do any harm. Of course it isn’t necessary to cut into it, and if the stock is juicy and slipping well, the knife clicks through the bark and naturally stops at the wood anyway.

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I don’t fish the wood out of a T bud scion. After undercutting the bud, loosen the bark at the top. Then twist the bud sideways with your thumb and it pops off the wood. Doing that there’s no need to avoid cutting into the wood.

But you’re saying things I don’t recall advocating.

I’m probably just not expressing myself well. My point is that I like your suggestion of leaving the scion wood behind on the budwood stick as you describe instead of trying to fish it out like I’d been doing in the past.

Also:

Make your two cuts, down and across. Cut fully thru the bark but not into the wood. It’s usually easy to tell as the bark is much softer than the wood

I’m suggesting that there is no harm in cutting into the wood of the host, just isn’t required or desired.

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On 7/15 I grafted three upright branches of a DV rootstock with Dar Sophia using Whip & Tongue grafts, then just below on one vertical I placed a chip bud as my insurance. I would have expected my 3 W&T grafts with apical dominance to take first, but to my surprise only the chip bud has taken! I am a bit mystified at the results.