Tips for summer budding Mulberry?

Hello everyone.
I have a few Mulberry volunteers in the garden, and one small tree (maybe 2’ tall) that came up from the root under my Pakistan. I also have a neighbor with the best tasting black mulberry, who has said we could take cuttings. After tasting those last year, I have seriously been spoiled for any other.
Is Mulberry something you can summer bud?
I have never really tried budding, but as I understand it, you can use growing stock, and growing bud sticks. I’m not the most patient person, so not having to wait until next year to do something really appeals to me. I believe it’s best done later, maybe July? but was hoping someone could give me a better idea of the time, and process involved.
Thanks in advance!

I’d hate to summer bud Mulberries. They bleed sap like crazy even when you just pull a leaf off the branch. Like figs. I’d dormant graft only.

Do folks notch mulberry grafts to ease the ooze? I grafted my first mulberries last weekend and when I saw the sap I decided to put some sap-bleeding notches below the grafts. But, unlike with grapes I have not seen much sap come out of the notches I made.

If you notch below the graft, how would it get the cambium juices to get the graft to take? Sorry don’t know the terminology!

Notching is used to bleed off excess, the idea is there is still plenty of sap left. It is a standard procedure in many types of grafts but not in fruit trees.

I would assume it you cut the notch as a flap, pulling it back for during the graft, you could even wrap it back in place after grafting and keep some level of the flow you obstructed, given a day or three for the notch to heal as well…

The notch is just a slit, they will be all healed in a year.

My guess is there is no reason to notch mulberries as the slits quickly fill up with latex which dries and they don’t keep flowing. Grapes and kiwis get some really major flow out of the slits.

Thanks for all the input.
Stuff I would never have considered.
I may just let these grow out, and graft when they’re dormant, since it sounds like patients may be less hassle in the long run.
Another factor limiting me right now, is a nine month project I’m just three months into.
Right now I’m missing my trees, as bed rest is the order of the day. At least I can see the apple orchard from where I am.
I’m counting my blessings, and this forum and it’s many contributing members are certainly among them.

Thanks for all the great info!

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I top worked some large mulberrys this spring, the sap sure made things slippery but as you said it dried up quickly. I hope to see some buds pushing soon.

Hey hey, I’m at the fag end of a similar project. I play a small role though! :grin:


Congratulations to you too!
Dads play a major supporting roll, that is not to be underestimated!
I hope all goes well in getting your “project” on to the next stage. :slight_smile:

Bumping this one back up…
I summer-budded a couple of Ill. Everbearing onto seedling M.alba close to 20 years ago. No problems.

What I’m looking at now, is (true) M.nigra… yeah, I know, they’re not supposed to work here, but I’m determined to give them the old college try for my wife, who loves them… bought 3 different selections from Lucille Whitman last year… only one survived the winter, but it’s growing well. I’m looking to bud from it onto the re-growing M.alba rootstocks from the other two plants, as well as some potted M.rubra/M.rubraXalba seedlings I have in my nursery area.
Looking for recommendation on best timing for bud placement… and… should I force growth on the successful bud-takes - and when - or leave them parked until next spring?