There isn’t going to be a fruit report next season…the thing I got from Cummins had a bigger crook than Uncle Doffuses walking stick…
so I took the wood and grafted a couple trees for backups in case something happens to the original. Not sure if anyone else’s Triumph prefers to grow it’s ‘leader’ at a 90 degree angle or not… 
OfCourse, I could probably have gotten fruit faster by keeping the horizontal trunk!
I got to try Triumph fruit last fall, it was pre-released to the Maine Cooperative Extension Orchard at Highmoor Farm. The orchard manager loves it. Really impressive quality for fresh eating. I preferred the flavor over either parent, so good in fact that I ordered several trees as quick as I could! I hope it’s more grower friendly than HC, which is susceptible to bitter pit here
Good to know!
Liberty is very resistant to problems, so Triumph probably took after it in the plant health department (hopefully took more after Honeycrisp in the flavor department). My G11 isn’t going to bloom, nor is my backup graft of Triumph…I’ll have to be patient.
Where did everyone order their Triumph trees from? Im seeing Gurneys and burnt ridge have it… not the best places I’ve ordered from, at least burnt ridge is priced right.
Got mine from Cummins…it’s the most crooked tree I ever got in the mail…and it’s not nearly as disease resistant as the claims. I took and made a successful ‘backup’ graft of mine in April 2021.
@BlueBerry looks like they dont have any right now, but that doesn’t make me want one either. Have only bought 2 trees from them and they were above average I’d say. Sucks about the lack of disease resistance.
There is no value flooding the market with 500 new varieties that offer scant difference to what is there already. That one in a thousand (and often is a smaller number) actually contributes to the pool of great genetics. If somebody just wants new varieties they can just plant 1,000 and give each a different name.
One thing about Honeycrisp is that by all accounts it is one hell of a finicky apple variety. It is an all around harder to get it producing right and if it doesn’t like your weather and soil you end up with substandard apples that don’t come anywhere near the quality a top shelf Honeycrisp. I wonder if this son of a crisp took on the father’s side for that.
Having said that I did plant my own and now I’m patiently waiting to see what it wants to do.
Honeycrisp here on MM111 barely grows and refuses to flower. It doesn’t do well with our warm winters even though we get maybe 700 chill hours.
I’d try Triumph if it’s better with low chill conditions.
Some apples do fine with our weather. Others are two months late on starting to grow. At that point even if they flower fruit set can be poor. My Ginger Gold has many seedless fruit as a result. They’re 25% of normal size but actually better apples with a much longer harvest window before turning to mush.
I sort of agree…there’s already too many ‘new’ commercial apples.
On the other hand, most of the genes are from 5 apples.
And, we have SkillCult here on this forum that has raised only a few hundred seedlings, but has people bidding 3 figures just for a little piece of scionwood.
Somebody thinks a lot more than .1% are valuable.
Are you talking late leaf out or the apples growing late in the season?
If you need them to leaf out sooner you may want to try spraying the naked tree in the early spring with either nitrogen or magnesium. Basically it will get the signaling that nutrients are being pumped up by the roots and it is time to leaf out. It should be done two weeks prior to the date you want the tree to wake up.
Obviously you do not want to do that before the weather gets warm enough.
They leaf out two months late and bloom is very spread out. Ginger Gold blooms until July. Goldrush on the other hand blooms in April.
Honey Crisp never did bloom in 5 years.
Then it is definitely a candidate for what should amount to a tree caffeine pill.
It is difficult to overcome genetic chill hour requirements. I’ve read in the past that treatment with carbon dioxide can help.
I’m not addressing chill hour requirements. If as described, these just take longer to wake up after the weather has warmed up and there are no more chill hours to be had anyways.
Next year I plan on spraying grape vines which are the absolutely last thing to leaf out here, well past the time where there is a risk for frost. They most certainly get enough chill hours (It is mid October and they are already going dormant) but has a tendency to wake up too late.
A perennial plant that does not “wake up” properly in the spring often is caused by not meeting chilling hour requirements. Leafing is delayed, flowering is delayed, and fruit production is usually disrupted. These plants can sometimes be triggered into normal bearing by treatment with auxins and sometimes nitrogen stimulation. This is a major problem when a plant has been carried too far south from its normal climate range. Peaches and apples have varying levels of problems with chill hour requirements.
I’m really curious to hear folks experiences with Triumph as it starts to fruit for them. As others stated “disease resistant” or even specifically scab resistance doesn’t necessarily make it an easy apple to grow. It sounds like an apple I’d really like, but not sure I want to attempt to grow it after my experience with Honeycrisp. I’ve been disappointed with Honeycrisp in Michigan’s east upper peninsula with bitter pit, sensitivity to cold damage to the fruit prior to harvest in our short season and who knows what. I got other apples that are much better in my limited space! I grew Honeycrisp in incredibly hot, humid summers in Missouri where I thought it should be too hot for it, and it was a wonderful apple where I planted it with a bit of afternoon shade. Only problems was the birds and japanese beetles also preferred it to my other apples. I think the heavier clay soil in Missouri helped with this finicky apple compared to the low nutrient sand I’m constantly trying to improve here in Michigan.
My Triumph tree from Cummins on G-11 rootstock, and a budded limb that came out at about an 80 degree angle.
I cut it real hard and grafted to a couple G890 roots…they have not grown fast at all.
And the original is alive, but a basket case.
So, maybe 3 years I’ll get an apple?
I’ve not heard of this before, but it sounds like something I’m definitely going to try out on some of my more cantankerously late leafers- ironically for me Honeycrisp on MM102 grows very vigorously, but Baumanns Red Reinette is always last to break buds, making it a necessity to hand pollinate, but if I can get it to wake up even a few weeks earlier it’d at least get some crossover with the other late bloomers!
Are you able to run me through what product/s you buy, and mixed in what ratios with water, as well as if it’s lightly misted on the branches/trunk, or if it’s more like “drench the branches” amounts applied?
I’m not familiar … MM102?