Looking around, I can find a few documentations about this rootstock. Apparently they trialed it in Illinois, which you can read about here:
It seems very highly susceptible to bacterial canker according to them, which would negate its positives. A Royal Crimson cherry I planted last year is absolutely inundated with bacterial cankers, and would therefore try to avoid this (the only tree in my entire orchard so far thankfully).
I addressed this issue in a different thread https://growingfruit.org/t/sap-leakage-on-royal-crimson-cherry/
MockY.
Adara and Monrepos are two selected rootstocks of Mirabolan plum (prunus cerasifera), with excellent qualities of adaptability to all types of terrain and compatible in grafting with cherry.
What happens is that both Adesoto and Adara have been selected at the Aula Dei experimental station in Zaragoza.
We will talk about these two rootstocks in a post that I am going to open, dedicated entirely to the cherry tree.
In the United States the Adara rootstock is well know , it is very vigorous, very resistant to heavy and limestone soils and immune to root-knot nematodes (which spread Agrobacterium disease).
The bacterium Pseudomonas Syringae, which causes bacterial canker “are more big words”, and there is no rootstock resistant to this disease (that I know of), there are only preventive control methods.
I haven’t found this to be the case in my experience. I have lost several vigorous Pluots, pluerries and plums to crown gall…all in different areas around my yard and none replanted in areas other trees succumbed to crown gall.
I solarized the soil in those areas for a season by covering the soil in the summer with black plastic and have since replanted the areas with trees on Myro. All have been going strong so far…some for going on 5 years, so fingers crossed.
Thanks for sharing your orchard experiences. I don’t often get an opportunity to read about stonefruit growing practices around the Mediterranean.
When I read your comment about this I immediately suspected that Adesoto probably suckers like crazy. My suspicions were confirmed when I found this page from U. of California.
Here in the U.S. this would be a pretty big drawback for commercial growers. Most peach growing areas of the U.S. get substantial rainfall and therefore use herbicides to control weeds. With profuse suckering, not only does the orchardist have to control the suckers themselves with mowing, but in many cases suckering prevents the use of systemic herbicides in areas with significant rainfall.
For most backyard orchards in the U.S., suckering generally isn’t a big consideration.
I would be interested to hear if you have to use any pesticides at all, in your orchard?
Hi Mark.
Before answering you, I will tell you that I have been reading about you , on the growingfruit forum for many years and we both have a predilection for the same fruit varieties .
It always caught my attention (and I had a bit of bad envy hahahahaha), for the Lady Nancy peach variety:
But it is a variety of peach with acidity (I hate the acidity in the peaches ).
I love the peach varieties, both with white and yellow flesh with these characteristics
Large caliber
High exterior coloration for red skin peaches
Total yellow coloration for the cling peaches (for this type of peaches, I hate the red color on the insolated part)
High brix of sugars
Powerful flavor
With very low acidity
And exactly the same for flat peaches and nectarines.
Regarding Adesoto rootstock, it is used when the ground conditions are so suffocating or salinized , that there is no other choice.
Yes, it does have a tendency to emit suckers , especially in its juvenile state, which is corrected and practically stop to emit suckers when the tree is adult.
This rootstock, independently to its great resistance to soil problems, has two added advantages:
Anticipate the harvest dates
It greatly improves the size of the fruits
but it has the disadvantage of emitting sprouts in its youthful state .
At the amateur level, when soil conditions are really bad, this rootstock solves the problems.
Now let’s talk about my orchard.
Due to the climatic conditions of my region, very cold winters, extremely hot summers, and practically no humidity throughout the year due to the lack of rain, I have no problems with fungal diseases.
I only perform the winter treatment (two applications) by fumigation
First application after the winter frosts
Second application when the flower is in a pink button state
This floral state
The products that I apply are:
Copper Oxychloride (will soon be restricted by the European Union, and Calcium Polysulfide will be used instead)
Paraffin oil
For the Mediterranean fruit fly (Ceratitis Capitata), I do massive trapping with plastic bottles, using Diammonium Phosphate as an attractant, dissolved in water, and with a little food coloring, which provides a yellow color that is also attractant.
I don’t have many weed problems in my orchard due to the arid conditions, so using the brush cutter is sufficient
MockY, the Adara and Morepos rootstocks, have the same utility, both are plums with very vigorous growth, compatible in graft with cherries.
It is not very correct to use the Spanish word “Puente” to describe the Adara plum tree.
The Spanish word Puente In English is bridge, and this is specific for when the Adara plum is used as an intermediary graft between a rootstock suitable for the conditions of the terrain, to make it compatible with cherries.
Puente is the Spanish term “colloquial” , intermediary this is the appropriate term.
In the case of the Adara rootstock, it is used in Europe as an intermediary on two rootstocks:
Mariana 2624 (resulting in the Marilan rootstock)
GxN 15 Garnem (rootstock many more vigorous than Mariana)
I personally prefer to use Monrepos plum directly as rootstock, it is a real beast.
But do not be in a hurry hahahahahaha, I am preparing a monograph on cherry trees, but it requires a long time to translate documents, now in my country it is the coldest month, and now i’m collecting graft cuttings for my friends (a very hard job, which it takes a lot of time ) .
Don’t worry, we’ll talk extensively about the cherry tree.
Hi Bradybb.
Yes effectively .
Paraffin oil is an oil of mineral origin, highly refined suitable for organic farming, and is used in fruit growing as an insecticide since it produces a film that suffocates both larvae and eggs deposited on trees by aphids and other harmful insects.
Its use is always carried out in a state of winter dormancy once the frosts have passed.
Very beautiful fruits Jose! I only which I could grow such beautiful lush fruits with no sprays!
Glad to have you aboard the forum. I hope you keep posting of your horticultural fruit growing practices. It’s been really interesting reading about your hort practices. Again, your pics are beautiful.
I feel like we have to fight like mad here to get a decent fuzzy peach. Getting a decent quantity of good looking nectarines is like winning the lottery. I’ve given up on them as a commercially viable crop. Other, more favorable U.S. climates have an easier road growing commercial nectarines.
Mark, your region is very suitable for growing all kinds of stone fruit.
Your winter is fantastic with sub-zero temperatures similar to mine, the problem you have is that your summers are not excessively hot.
From what I see in meteotube, and climatedata fews days in summer you exceed temperatures above 99 º F, compared to the summer in my region that from mid-June to mid-September, temperatures greatly exceed 104ºF (July and August between 110º, and 112º F), I also see that you have rains during the summer (in my region not a drop of water falls all summer).
So having average temperatures in spring and summer, and a certain level of humidity, are the appropriate conditions for cryptogamic diseases (fungal diseases), and trying to maintain stone fruit varieties in an ecological way in your conditions is quite complicated.
In my case, the fruit from my orchard is for family consumption, providing quality fruit in my restaurant, and giving fruit to friends in my town.
Since I, my wife and my two daughters are going to eat the fruit, I avoid treatment with chemical pesticides.
By doing some good winter treatments ( in your case three treatments ) with copper oxychloride and paraffin oil, you will have the war practically won.
Hahahahaha, the fruits that I have put, are a small example, and they are not my best varieties (it is not logical to arrive as a new member to this magnificent forum, and try to be pretentious), all in due time, step by step when I have more time in the forum, you will see really wonderful varieties.
I just finished collecting cuttings from my orchard a moment ago, and now I am preparing them for sending to friends and keeping them refrigerated in optimal conditions.
I am not sure, if you use the system that I use in the United States, and maybe I should open a post to explain this simple and effective method so that the cuttings remain as freshly cut, at the time of grafting (even halfway summer ) .
With a single request of interest, I open a post and I comment on the method.
Ok, Steven.
If you request it , that I have been reading you for many years in this forum, and you are a source of inspiration for me.
It will be a real pleasure to explain how I carry out the conservation of cuttings.
It is simple, but it is very useful.
I’ll get hands to work
Zephyr nectarine has a very large caliper, is very sweet and flavorful, low acid white nectarine developed in France; have you tried it? What do you think of it?
Ahmad, the nectarine variety Zéphyr Monphir, bred by René Monteux-Caillet, and whose publisher for Europe is Starfruits, is a good nectarine, but it is not a “Top Ten” variety.
There are countless better European varieties of nectarine than the Zéphyr variety.
Steven, I have practically all the information on the subject of the conservation of cuttings, but it is very late in my country (2.30 in the morning) and I must rest for a while.
Tomorrow i finish it
I look forward to that commentary; nectarines are my favorite stone fruits. We don’t have many European nectarines in USA, only a handful, of which I can think of Zephyr, Emeraude, Jade and Ambre. Zephyr is the best among them in my opinion.
Ahmad I attached you the catalogs of only three European breeders (two Spanish companies and one French), and there are many more.
I think you’re going to get bored of nectarines hahahahahahaha
I will get bored of them when I have access to them! Right now I am interested to know your top ten varieties of every fruit type you grow, but I suggest you start a thread for that, since we have completely hijacked @Stan post, and I know his patience has limits …
Right now I am interested to know your top ten varieties of every fruit type you grow, but I suggest you start a thread for that, since we have completely hijacked