What are you ordering, 2018


#162

I have so many waiting to prove their worth in this region: Court Pendu Rose, Keepsake, GoldRush, Connell Red, Wynoochee Early, Claygate Pearmain, Orléans Rienette, Margil & Airlie Red Flesh (thanks, Chikn, for the bud-graft scions; looks like most callused,) that I may just order root stocks to play with next season. Just a few Bud118 for low and medium vigor apples and Gen30 for Hunt Russet.
Tasting and liking the rose component in Hunt Russet’s flavors, I am so curious to see how Court Pendu Rose plays out.


#163

Good choices and good luck with them. I will say that the 8 pecan trees I got from Plantmegreen have since gone to the the great pecan grove in the sky. I believe all of the scions have bit the dust, but on some of them, the rootstock (Caddo?) has sprouted up.

Even if all of them did eventually turn into a big mature tree, I wouldn’t get any nuts, as pecans need pollination from another type tree. A Caddo is type 1, so I would need a type 2 tree for pollination. So looks like I’m outta luck there.

I posted my travails with my pecan trees in another thread if you want to read about it. We were talking about the difficulty in getting bare root pecans to successfully transplant and survive. But, it could also be that I was pushing my luck in trying get what are known as southern pecans to grow here.

@tennessean, I believe, had some interesting info about his trees.


#164

I’ve tried planting two Northern pecans and two replacements. Of them all, one has survived. The plants were from Woodstock Nursery and hardly had any side roots. The surviving one has weathered two winters, so may actually survive, but not sure I want to bother trying to plant another for pollination at that rate.


#165

Many nurseries suggest that bare root plants result in a superior tree. I’ve found this totally false in my climate. Pecan trees suffer extreme transplant shock when planted bare root. Conversely, potted pecans do extremely well. Actually, all species do poorly for me when planted bare root.


#166

Yes, @BambooMan, that’s what some folks mentioned in the thread I linked. Pecan bare root trees have a huge tap root, but not a lot, if any, smaller feeder roots.

Of my 8 trees, many of the scions detached from the rootstock. Did they do that because the scion died, or was it a suspect graft union to begin with? From what I’ve read from people much more experienced in the matter, (@Lucky_P and @Barkslip, can you comment?), these types of grafts can be difficult to take.


#167

I’ve bought pecan trees from every major online nursery including PMG. The bare roots stink, they are usually “carrot sticks.” Like you said no feeder roots, which means no sap to the tree. This results in death of the scion, graft union and possibly lower. The plant wants to live so it provides sap to the healthiest portion of the understock. For me, this is often below the soil line. I think the grafts would be fine if the trees were never uprooted. All my potted PMG pecans are robust and healthy. In fact, this past summer I purchased a 3 gallon pecan from PMG. I repotted it into a 30 gallon pot upon delivery. This past weekend I field planted this same tree. It’s root ball completely filled the 30 gallon pot, and it developed a new tap root. It would have been fine to field plant it upon delivery, but I don’t like field watering during the summer.


#168

Has anyone in zone 3 or 4 of WI or MN ever actually harvested any pecans?


#169

Hi Bob,

In short, a good root system will transplant excellently as bare root. A friend has grafted bareroot and taken them directly to the field and has gotten 90% success long term. 100’s of grafts at a community college.

No feeder roots though and those are likely going to die. That’s pretty well the same as you say for all trees.

A well knitted graft on a good/great root-system is not going to perish unless it’s neglected of water. Anyone should be able to graft on bareroot in spring and a few months later go plant those grafts as bareroots to the field.

Dax


#170

Zone 4 yes. Zone 3 the growing season is too short.

A grafted tree on Northern rootstock such as native Missouri or Illinois root systems are completely hardy in zone 4. You’d need find a cultivar with the least amount of days to mature their nuts. Somewhere on here we’ve talked about which two cultivars should mature in zone 4. I’m sure it’s on the pecan thread if you were to search and do some reading. ‘Warren 346’ was one, but, I forget the other.

Ok here it is: Pecan

Dax


#171

Barkslip, Thanks. I have seen several recommendations by various nurseries and by posters here for hardy pecans, but what I want to know is if anyone up here near Minneapolis has ever actually harvested any nuts from them.


#172

I think Dax is spot on about bare root, but the problem is the inconsistency in the quality of root systems with many nurseries. I like to always add the caveat, “in my climate and soil,” a plant that is potted and not root bound will always outperform bare root. My soil is extremely heavy clay, and my winters go directly to summer with wild swings in between. If you plant too early a late frost kills the small leaves and zaps the life out of the newly grafted plant. If you plant too late the brutal summer temperatures and unrelenting sun can fry your plant to a crisp, despite adequate water and proper pruning. For me, my favorite time to plant is during the fall. Apples and pears are another story, they can be planted just about anytime for me. However, my potted apples and pears will be four times the size of the bare root in three years time. This is just my experience, I’m sure people in different climates have totally different results.


#173

Small revision, im feeling like experimenting so im trying out Splendour on G969

Blazingstar - ACN
Prelude/Bristol black - Nourse
Violette DeBordeaux fig
Juliet


#174

Anyone delaying there 2018 orders in hopes of a black Friday coupon?

I felt so burned. right after my last order arrived the vendor started putting out 20% and free shipping coupons.


#175

Albemarle Ciderworks just reopened its tree sales division today after a long hiatus from disease quarantine.

They are not doing peaches this year.

They have apples, pears, plums, and a cherry. Website has beautiful photos of the fruit as grown at their Virginia site, with interesting descriptions.

Info on their rootstocks.

https://www.albemarleciderworks.com/faq/orchard/rootstock

They also sell scionwood.

https://www.albemarleciderworks.com/scionwood


#176

well, i received my 3ft. juliet cherry last week, when i was supposed to only get it next spring. grounds not frozen hard yet but i decided to plant it in a good sized pot till’ spring. i sure hope it makes it. i hate planting anything this late in the season.


#177

Put the pot in a dark garage or shed. Keep it out of the cold winds.


#178

I am alerting Steven @skillcult about this post seeing as he is a great collector of crabapples and redfleshes.

This fall, Albemarle Ciderworks is selling trees of:
-Hyslop
-Dolgo
-Geneva
-Nelson
-Wickson
-Redfield
-and Hewe’s

In case you’re missing any of these in your collection:


#179

thanks for the advice! will do.should i water it occasionally? usually just put established potted plants outside in a protected spot for the winter.


#180

Yes-- Water it about once a month over the winter.

No-- Don’t leave the pot outside in Zone 3. That’s too chilly willy. Those Seskatchewan cherries are very cold hardy, but that’s when the roots are planted and protected in-ground. Unknown to me whether they would survive in a pot unprotected outdoors in northern Maine. I wouldn’t chance it. The cold winds might desicate the exposed roots.


#181

ok . thats what i thought also. i have the top of soil mulched with wet newspaper to help retain moisture. we get deep snow most winters but ill still err on the side of caution.