What’s going on with my Peaches/Nectarines?

Hello everyone! I discovered some weird bumps/lumps on some of my Peach & Nectarine trees. All my trees are low chill, so I am wondering if it is damage from the warm temperatures, deep freeze, then back to warm temps? Here are some pictures. I did attempt to scratch some of the bumps off to see if they were any type of scale, but they are not. I don’t spray my trees with anything as I like to keep everything organic and I have butterfly gardens intertwined with my food forest. Plus many fruit trees double as butterfly host plants. Any thoughts and/or suggestions are appreciated.





Has anyone seen anything like this on their trees? My hope is that is only something cosmetic.

Thanks,
Danny

that’s at least scab.

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Is there anything I can do about it, or do I need to trim every infected twig back to 2nd year growth?

There looks like common bacterial nonsense + scab to me. You need to alleviate the scab is how I see it. I’ve never sprayed anything Prunus so my answer is “I don’t know what I would do.”

Dax

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Yes, this does look like peach scab. You can google it to compare photos. If you live in a humid area, the scab-causing fungus is there, no pruning will change that. You can either spray heavily (not very effective) or switch to scab-resistant varieties. @Olpea in his peach reviews, pays a lot of attention to which varieties are scab-resistant.

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Hi Danny,
Sorry to see this news. I have zero scab experience but have often found that my local Ag extension agent is best when it comes to diagnosis, recognition and treating diseases in their areas. Fortunately you are in one of the best states and A&M has a good reputation.
Suggest you get advice from your local Ag Extension agent thru:
Rick Avery, Ph.D., Director

Agriculture and Life Sciences Building
600 John Kimbrough Boulevard, Suite 509
College Station, TX 77843-7101
979-314-8202
Dennis
Kent, wa

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Actually Stan, I think you may be confusing my reviews with bacterial spot. Bacterial spot is very difficult to treat, unless an antibiotic is used, or copper, which is less effective and causes some phytotoxic leaf issues. Because of that, we only plant peach varieties which have some resistance to bacterial spot.

Peach scab is highly treatable, so I don’t pay much attention to varieties resistant to peach scab. Actually, I wouldn’t know the difference in varietal resistance to peach scab by experience, since we spray for it.

I agree, the lesions on the pics look like peach scab to me. I also agree no pruning will change anything. Sometimes the amount of rain will have an impact. Years with heavy rain will increase scab pressure, whereas drier years will decrease it.

Generally the damage on the fruit is what is undesirable. I don’t know that lesions on the shoots affect the trees too much. I’ve seen unmanaged peach trees with scab lesions which seem to plod along. I’m sure the trees would do somewhat better without scab pressure, but I don’t know how much better. Imo, scab probably isn’t much of a threat to most peach trees.

We spray for it because of the damage to the fruit, which can be substantial. If one chooses to spray for it, a fungicide spray (like Captan) at shuck split followed by cover sprays every 10 to 14 days until pit hardening should take care of it, in all but the most stubborn situations. Probably less sprays would be necessary in TX because it’s relatively dry there.

Or it may not even be worth spraying in a home orchard in TX because I wouldn’t expect it to show up every year.

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I never worry about peach scab here in the northeast because if it is present, so is brown rot and if you treat brown rot, you also treat scab. I do manage unsprayed trees in my nursery and never had any issue with scab affecting growth nor have I read anything about needing to protect peach foliage from scab or ever seen scab on foliage. I’m thinking your scab is probably doing no harm to the bark and I’m impressed that you even observed it there.

If I was trying to control scab on peaches and didn’t need to control brown rot, I would probably try myclobutanil instead of Captan because two sprays might eliminate it altogether. It seems very doubtful that your scab has any resistance to this compound that has the power to not only protect but also to kick back and eliminate existing scab. It also won’t wash off from rain the way Captan does.

Myclo isn’t terribly affective in combating brown rot, but it’s likely quite affective against peach scab. Cornell recommends it for that pest.

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Yes, you’re right, of course. I did confuse scab and bacterial spot, my bad. As you said, bacterial spot is the disease difficult to control with sprays, and not scab. Thank you for correction!

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Hmm, I don’t think that’s right Alan. I think you may be confusing peach scab with apple scab. Myclobutanil isn’t labeled for peach scab. It may work, but I’d be surprised if Cornell would recommend it off-label. The Midwest Tree Fruit Spray Guide doesn’t recommend it.

I think peach scab is quite a bit different from apple scab. I couldn’t find any DMI fungicides labeled for peach scab, including (Indar, Rubigan, Rally (myclo), Topguard, Tilt (propiconazole), Procure) even though (except Tilt) they are effective against apple scab, assuming no resistance. They may be effective against peach scab, despite not being labeled for it, but I suspect there are probably better choices.

I’m sure no one would be interested in it for a home orchard, but for the few commercial growers who use the forum, if one really wants to hammer peach scab, supposedly Miravis will annihilate it. It’s also supposed to offer excellent brown rot protection. It’s very pricey because it’s new ($50 per acre). I’ll probably just stick with Captan.

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You are correct- I was reading from dated material and misread it entirely, confusing the division between brown rot and scab which in the manual were one on top of the other. However, that is where my confusion came from- I didn’t assume peach and apple scab would respond to the same materials the same way.

Here’s what Rutgers has to say about peach scab now. Lots more commercial stonefruit production in Jersey than NY, I think.

TREE FRUIT PESTS AND CONTROLS
93
Scab
The fungus Fusicladosporium carpophilum causes peach scab. The pathogen overwinters in lesions produced on current season‘s fruiting shoots. In New Jersey, spore production on these lesions begins during bloom and ends early- to mid-July. The spores are not readily released into the air until they become wetted. The period between infection and visual symptoms of the disease on the fruit is very long, from 40 to 70 days. Because of this long period, early maturing cultivars may be harvested before the fruit spots are visible to the naked eye. Infections can occur on the fruit, green twigs, and leaves. Infections occur most readily at temperatures between 65 and 75°F, when rainfall is abundant. Infections can occur at temperatures as low as 40 -45°F and as high as 90-95°F.

Lesions formed on current season twigs are light brown, diffuse, and small initially (0.0625 to 0.125 inches in diameter). As they increase in size, they become circular with a darker brown color. A slightly raised bark callus surrounds the margin of the lesion. In the spring, velvety-textured, olive-colored spots appear within the lesion.

On fruit, tiny spots appear around third cover (early July in southern counties) when the fruit are about one-half their final size. The spots develop quickly into very dark, olive-colored, circular spots. Later the spots appear almost black in color. The spots do not “break” the skin as do the fruit spots caused by bacterial spot. However, the skin frequently cracks open in the areas where numerous infected spots occur, and the Brown Rot or Rhizopus Rot fungus then attacks the flesh of the fruit. The spots are usually more numerous on the stem end of the fruit.

Topsin M (0.5 lb/100 gal), when applied at petal fall, has resulted in “burn out” of many of the overwintering lesions on the twigs. Thus, disease pressure can be measurably reduced as a result of a lower inoculum level. Fruit infections are most common from shuck-split through third cover. Foliar sprays are effective in protecting the fruit from infection, and a single fungicide spray applied around first cover will provide reasonably good control of twig infections in nonbearing blocks.

The disease is troublesome in commercial blocks when the trees did not receive a regular spray program in the preceding year. This occurs when the block was “frozen-out” the previous year and when a new block is first coming into production. The disease can be troublesome during periods of drought, since only 3 hours of 100% RH is necessary for sporulation to occur. Where disease is troublesome, apply Gem, Topsin M + Captan, Bravo, Abound, or Quadris Top; use higher rates and shorter spray intervals if frequent rains occur. In addition to protectant activity, Gem and Abound also act as antisporulants, thereby reducing inoculum production on twig lesions. Sprays should be applied until 40 days before harvest.

Rutgers is one of the few sources for free information about commercial production recs. Here’s the link to download their manual. file:///C:/Users/aland/Downloads/e002.pdf

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