This question has arisen before. My guess is that some vendor had too little space on their tags for “Winter”.
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TY. I was looking at buying one for next season. I have seen them listed both ways. The descriptions sometimes are lacking as well.
A dozen or so per crop. I’m expecting 2 crops this year and a third that ripens in Jan.-Feb.
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Thank you, I need to do some thinning on a young gold rush tree and that helps me understand how much to thin.
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Looks great. I have two slots left for placing trees. I keep debating on what ones to pick. You are talking me into buying a WWP tree.
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I got 2 or 3 ‘takes’ on WWP last year…haven’t planted any in my orchard yet, though.
(My hope is to use it as a mother or father for some experimental crosses.)
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I was hastily running through inventory today checking on things…and snipping a little scionwood of those that are threatening to break dormancy. Have at least two little grafted trees, either on G30 or B9 of the White Winter Pearmain. Never tried one…but looking forward to it someday.
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Maybe you have mentioned this before but I will ask you again. What rootstcock(s) are you using?
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Love seeing all of these progression pictures of all of your trees 
I have looked at severalnof your different threads and each one is very great! Thanks for all of these 
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It’s M-111.
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TY. It looks very compact.That is why I asked. I would like to keep a few of mine in that shape and size. So much easier to handle.
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In my experience apple trees slow down a lot when the central leader is cut and scaffolding is forced by repeated selective pruning of side branches. After 3-5 years of getting the desired shape they’ll be a few years of little required maintenance. Then the scaffolds will start sending whips skyward!
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Great info. TY for your advice. I will give a few of mine a try like that.
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