I actually got 5 takes out of ten (I didn’t notice some of the buds at first). Starting from a lifetime score of about ‘zero’, I’m thrilled.
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Wanted to add the final results to this thread after more than 6 months.
Here are 2 out of my he several successful grafts with this tool. They were done on figs.
As you can see, the graft line is
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Hey fantastic. Looks like you did one with the V pointed up on the rootstock and the other with the V cut out of the rootstock. Doesn’t matter of course.
Dax
Yes Dax, I wanted to experiment both ways. I think I found that the saddle graft (upside down cleft) was easier for me to hold in place without the scion getting knocked off wrapping with grafting rubber.
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Perfect.
Dax
It looks like scion is thicker than the rootstock?was it that way when you grafted it?
It’s my phone camera and how I’m holding it. They are the same width.
Any updates people care to share? 
I just did 120 grafts with my new zenport V-cut tool and couldn’t be more happier. This probably isn’t the right choice of tool for everyone, and it sounds like Olpea and a few others got faulty tools which is very unfortunate. This tool does make very clean cuts though once you get it all dialed in. It took me about 40 minutes to line everything up and get the screws screwed in so it would make a perfect cut. It won’t take me near that long when I replace the blades the next time now that I know what I’m doing. Thanks @Barkslip!
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I think the design is a bit weak on all the knock-off brands. The size of wood it will cut before breaking depends on how good the crimp was made, so I think it’s sort of “pot luck” with these things.
That said, I fixed mine and used it last year with excellent results. It produces perfectly matched cuts which heal like ramv’s photo above. So far I’m much more satisfied with the fit and success than grafts I’ve done with a knife or double blade pruners.
There is a parallel thread about this tool where I showed how I repaired mine. Mine was a fairly extensive repair I explain toward the end of the thread, but @danchappell had an much easier home fix repair in post number 28.
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I bought this tool and it worked quite well on apples and pears. Not so well with mulberries that could just be me.
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=AS_20200316045518&SearchText=grafting+tool
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I use my Zenport on persimmons where I can match caliper size. Jujubes are still getting cleft grafts because of so much difference in scion and rootstock size. I love it for the persimmons and the union site heals really well. I adjusted mine minimally and it works fine. I do try to make a quick firm push on the cut and it works better than just a slow cut though.
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What beautiful grafts! Mine are not nearly as nice.
If I was just starting out, I think a Zenport tool would be great. As it is, I’ll continue using a knife. I mostly do whip and tongue.
What I like about these Zenport grafts is they dont leave exposed cut wood. I like that about whip and tongue as well.
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Well, it sort of worked. My batting average was probably only .250, but then, I’m a klutz. I have two nice small trees in the backyard.
The main problem is trying to compensate when the mismatched scionwood arrives.
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I’ve been very successful using the zen port tool to graft moderately mismatched scion. The trick is to make the V-cuts, and then shape it a little with the grafting knife. The “female” V cut has the two whip-tail ends, that are usually very flexible towards the ends. The male cut, I shave back the ends to expose more cambium further down and prepare a surface for the longer female “tails” to match to. Works great for me.
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Are you using this as more of saddle (V on scion) or cleft (V on root)? I got the tool last week and am going to sit down with my grafts soon. The tool should be fine to use for most, but it’s the first time I’ve done anything besides basic whip-and-tongue.
You cut a big saddle out of the rootstock.
Do modify the tool this way with a round rasp and get it all lined up and you can’t miss. You’ll learn the pressure needed for every cut after a few years I suppose. The strength of the wood you’re cutting into or thru as needed and how to “chop” thru it.
Dax
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I usually cut so that the wounds are aimed downward, just to make sure they can’t catch water and turn into soggy spots later. In dry, sunny California it probably makes no difference…
I got my “knock off” in the mail last week, but I my son didn’t have time to alter it yet. It is SO much lighter than the Fieldcraft, that thing is a beast. I hope it works just as good.
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It will.
Dax…
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