I think the rootstock is 2 years old. It was potted up as a bareroot last year and overwintered outside. KSBS seems like a more vigorous variety too but I’m sure an older rootstock helps. It will get stored indoors on particularly cold nights this year to avoid winter damage and will be planted in the ground next spring. My trees grafted onto 1 year rootstocks last year are only marginally larger or the same size depending on variety.
I’d kinda forgotten about this until I was examining my trees today. Here’s how one of those flaps healed up on JT-02. This one grew about 1 1/2 ft, so I don’t think the flap hurt anything.
I chip budded 23 apple rootstocks last night, 2 chips per stock, for a total of 46 grafts in about 3 hours. I grafted on Cox Orange Pippin, Winesap, WineCrisp, Prairie Spy and Crispin, all on G41. Tonight im going to graft my G890 rootstocks, they will be Honeycrisp, Granny Smith, Golden Delicious, Golden Russett and Fuji. Ill post some pictures of the nursery bed when im done.
G41 rootstocks have pink tags. G890 have green. Rootstocks planted in a nursery bed 6 inches apart in rows, 1 foot between rows. Green poultry netting up 3 feet to keep deer pressure off the grafts. I used parafilm to wrap the grafts tightly. I did a few with rubber bands and parafilm, but that took way too long. I usually have good luck with just parafilm anyways so i did most of the grafts without rubber bands.
I would like to hear comments on this video I just watched: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5CbGNNHcWQ
I was always told that grafting is done in the spring with dormant scions of the previous years growth. Those are the rules I always followed. This violate those rules.
The video is in Russsian but is very self explanatory. It amazes me that he is grafting with green wood (bud sticks) in the middle of summer with good results. He grafted on July 22 of this year and had 4 leafed out branches a week later. It looks like he cut back the rootstock and did not leave any nurse branches. Perhaps the sap had no place to go but up.
I would like to give that a try. No doubt removing leaves and tenting reduces desiccation.
I am wondering if comparable results could be had by cutting off one branch of a more mature tree and grafting to it, or would the fact that there are other paths for the sap make a difference?
I bought summer peach wood last year, and grafted it mid August. Right around this time of year. It leafed out, but did not grow that year. It has grown 18" this year, on Prunus americana rootstock.
Fall 2019 I waited till the last two weeks of temps at or above 70 F / 21 C to see if chip budding would work that late in the year. It had to of been in Sept. Maybe the 2nd to 3rd week appx.
I did all persimmons which are super easy. Not a one connected. I did it as an experiment to know if I or anyone else would be able to do another round you may say before winter comes along.
You can chip/t-bud all the time thru summer so long as your green wood is rigid and has pronounced buds. It’s getting late now of course.
July is a great month for bud grafts. Probably the best month.
I learned a big lesson the hard way this week…my beautiful Adams Pearmain graft clearly got too much wind or an aggressive bird…could/should have used a splint. These trees continue to humble me.
Thanks. I did not intend for them to be bushy, and I will have to prune away much of the growth in the Winter. The deer were pretty savage this year. Most of the stuff in the yard got deer pruned. I think the cold spring left them with a food deficit.
Maybe “management” of the deer herds by the state is the issue …
(lack of sufficient deer hunting…due to cost, due to environmental messaging…)…too many deer in any case.
Montrose apricot bench graft. It is a happy young tree. My question is about pruning. As you can see (hopefully), there is a dominant leader, a branch that is a strong second, and a twig right above the graft. My understanding is that I should have pruned all but the dominant at an earlier stage. Is this correct? Should I remove them now? I apologize for the clutter in the backyard. It’s dark outside, and that’s just how it is in the barn.
@Cloud8064 Intuition tells me to allow (1) bud to set on any new greenwood it may (may not either) grow and then prune that new green shoot 1/4" above that bud and walk away except to be sure the graft union is taped solid with electrical tape and the entire scion and 6" below the scion are fastened with a stake in place. Use electrical tape for the stake, too. Get it at least 6" below the graft union so you got a strong “branch” in place now for winter’s upcoming. What’s fortunate is that no matter if semi-greenwood or hardwood, as long as the tissue is hardened before temps at or below 28 hit it, then it’s completely as hardy as it ever could be. Stopping the initiation of growth and again that’s guessing those leaves in place now become anything else (50/50 shot) at a quarter-inch above a bud that set will tell the tissue along with the current temps it had better become rigid. It already appears before describing what I’m describing that there is at least one plump hardwood bud visible beneath the leaves. I apoligize as that may be a bud that opened to initiate those leaves. You’d need to say otherwise. So, all is looking okay. Maybe you got more buds on the current scion that didn’t pop that will initiate your branch/tree, next year. Hopefully so…
@BeeDee You understand it all correctly. And I might add that getting your trees above deer browse are essential for some people and if not that you still need to get your tree started at the height you wish it to begin branching. But what I’m looking at is still too early to begin branching (is likely) in many cases let’s say. You may as well save the wood on the tree for scionwood to offer for free or to trade, etc. Cut it when somebody needs it for grafting.
There is a benefit to my laziness of not removing dried up grafts the last bud decided to pop out. This is Pala d’Oro avocado. Now, would this survive the upcoming end of Sep 100F heat wave? I’ll try to help it out a bit.
the last bud decided to pop out. This is Pala d’Oro avocado. Now, would this survive the upcoming end of Sep 100F heat wave? I’ll try to help it out a bit.