That should be fine. I have taken it out completely when doing chipbuds. A russian youtuber I watched said it can cause rejection in chipbuds. I haven’t really tracked it, though.
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You would need either Adara plum or Cherry plum as your interstem to graft cherry to other stonefruits or vice versa.
Dennis
Kent, Wa
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Has anyone seen mulberry rootstock still available?
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You definitely want to keep mulberries from flooding the graft.
Do not water the tree. Usually I like to leave several lower branches around if I was grafting to avoid the flood.
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I posted in another thread but didn’t get any responses…I want to top-work this 4 year old plum into other varieties:
Should I thin to 4 primary scaffolds?
Leave a nurse branch or two and prune off later once the grafts take?
What graft would you use?
Can you graft two sticks to different sides of a 1-2" scaffold?
Is it worth considering pruning grafting scaffolds in spring and chip grafting to suckers in summer?
Thanks.
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I just buy the 1 gallon dwarf everbearing or Illinois everbearing that i see for cheap. Using them as rootstock because why not?
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That’s going to be determined by how big the branches are vs scions. By the photo I’m guessing they are going to have to be bark grafts or cleft with one side aligned.
This is completely going to be up to you, determine how many varieties you’re going to want on the tree. I have 4 stone fruit trees and I want more scaffolding so I can add maximum varieties.
I personally wouldn’t do this, unless you still want the variety it is, but I wouldn’t prune it later, however having one tall branch will make your grafts grow slower.
I have never done this so I’ll let someone else touch on this.
Good luck, but there is “more than one way to skin a cat” so no right or wrong in this I’d say. Just whatever fits your wants/needs
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Since dwarf everbearing roots easily I plan on using the cuttings as rootstock.
Seems like there was a decent amount on figbid last I checked.
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Uh… is that good?
Should be? The graft is still very much alive and the buds have a little bit of energy so it may be taking
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Dapple Dandy
Flavor King
Methley
The unknown peach on plum rootstock is starting to show a tiny bit of green! I attempted to get a picture, but it wouldn’t show.
I also have a few questions.
First, should I leave both growths on the Methley, or should I cut the lower growth off?
Second, when it comes time to plant, do I need to slowly introduce them outside or can I plant them straight into the ground? The reason I ask is because we have a new puppy and she will destroy them if I set them out. I have no protected place to harden them off where she can’t get them.
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Hi everyone, I’m new to grafting and looking for some help with a tree I inherited. After some research, I have learned that this tree is D lotus (date plum) rootstock which was likely grafted to an Asian persimmon scion that failed. I can clearly see where the union was near the base of the tree. I don’t care for the date plum fruit and would ideally like to graft Asian persimmon varieties.
My question to the experts: would you 1) graft to the existing scaffolds or 2) top work this tree and start anew?
One note, the central leader was damaged over the winter and had to be cut off. The bark near the wound seems to be either infected or dying.
Any help is much appreciated. Thank you!
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It says 10a, so being lotus rootstock I assume thats California; because everything out East is in D Virginiana.
I’d say you can either graft over the scaffolding, or just rip it out and put in a cultivar you’d like. Because there could be some issue with the rootstock causing the graft to fail. It doesn’t look to be too big of a tree, so this comes down to either having fun grafting, or getting fruit sooner.
I’d likely graft it over but if those grafts fail I’d probably get a tree from a nursery and start from scratch in the same season.
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Hi @Gkight, thank you for the insight. I am leaning towards grafting to the existing scaffolds to retain the structure of the tree. To your point, if worse comes to worse, I can replace it with the a new tree. My main concern with that approach is the damage to the bark where the central leader was cut. Do you think this will heal over in time? Otherwise, top working might be my only option. Thanks again!
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I would graft on those existing limbs if it were me.
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Today while reviewing my plum trees I decided this SM Plumcot seems to be setting a number of first time blossoms. In the first pic the rather weak fork near the bottom can be seen. Since this will be the first opportunity to grow and test this fruit, I decided to keep all branches to retain all the fruit buds this season, but to support the weak fork, I performed a union graft with the two longest branches. Once the graft heals the connected branches will brace the weak union below. In future years as the tree gains height, I can either keep both branches beyond the union or prune the weaker one off to have a central leader. Either way I can postpone further shaping until we have determined if this variety is a keeper.
Weak fork near the bottom:
Union graft to support the weak fork:
Dennis
Kent, Wa
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Lucky to have that. That’s what mines grafted onto also. If you need scions Ram just posted this earlier. He also has Jiro available. Great deals. https://growingfruit.org/t/persimmon-scionwood-for-trade/70713