Dereck at Hocking Hills has it categorized as a red flesh. The color is supposed to be kind of peachy inside. I’ve only seen and eaten one, but I understand the color is variable - some are more pink or yellow. The outside is red with orange.
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My new Dar Sofiyivky graft started sending out flower buds straight away (I’ll remove them in case they set)
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One of my favorite things to do is converting volunteer pear trees left over from the bartlett bosc orchard that used to exist here. I have half a dozen or so small ones , with the larger one converted earlier this year. 1st pic is a tree I saw flowering and grafted a bunch of shinli onto it. I aim at putting a daisuili and or a mishirazu in 27.
The second tree, along a fenceline took mishirazu and Paili quite well, and I aim at moving fence. Since the deer around here dont mess with ohx, callery or bet, Iplan on waiting to graft until they are larger, and a above 4.5’
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https://growingfruit.org/t/persimmons-2026/78377/775?u=wethinkyoushouldgrow
I forgot that there was a grafting thread that this should have been on, in case some looks for it in the future, I will post it here too.
Original tree is cherry crush with m111 roots, graft union buried. We have several of these trees and it was imbalanced so I used it to correct the imbalance and collect some good cultivars for Kentucky: Winesap, and black limbertwig. Also added Clarks crab, golden russet, amberoso, and muscat de venus. It’s amazing how much a graft can grow on an established tree. Grafts made in mid april.
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I have no idea what scion this is, because I lost the tag and it hasn’t flowered or fruited yet to give me any clues. I grafted it in 2020 or 2021 and moved it twice, from an in-ground nursery that was kind of a failure because it got overgrown with weeds, to a different in ground spot, to the hill orchard 3 years ago. It hardly grew the last 2 years, but this year it’s put on about 8-10” of new growth. The tree behind it with all the fruit on it (Liberty) was treated the same way. Unknown is on Bud9 and Liberty is M7. I don’t really think it’s the rootstock’s fault because other Bud 9s are still relatively small, too, from the same weedy nursery row, but all but 1 other have set at least a half dozen fruit by now. Whatever this scion is, it’s not “vigorous!”.
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The most vigorous B9 tree had the following caliper measurements just above graft union.
Swiss Limbertwig
Graft year end of season. .385
End of 1st leaf. .82"
Near end of second leaf. Currently 1.25"
The ones below are a tad slower but still doing well. B9s as well.
Williams Pride
4 years, 1.35"
Victoria Limbertwig
End of graft year. .385
Current first leaf. .75. It’s growing one apple.
The Honeycrisp refuses to grow at my place. I grafted one on my GD and the scion/new growth is only 10" and it’s the second season.
The Virginia Sweet wins the award for the most reluctant grower. 3 inches of growth after grafting on a G41.
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Checking my greenwood grafts from a month ago I got a pleasant surprise today. 3 trees (pear and plum grafts) had started to wake up that I’d almost given up hope on. Most of my June/July greenwood grafts sprung to life really quickly, but for some reason these ones were much slower out of the gate.
I’ve done lots of bud grafting of late, today I did a bunch of T-budding (which I usually don’t do very often).
Today I did the smallest bud graft I’ve ever attempted. I’ve been pretty lucky with bud grafting with wood as thin as a round toothpick. Today I attempted a novel method with a piece of wood probably half the diameter of a round toothpick. I used it because it was the only wood that was available off a very small tree. I racked my brain for a method to make a graft work with this tiny scion. What I came up with was to cut off a section of wood an inch or so long with the bud in the center. I then cut this inch+ section of scion in half, (removing the wood from backside of the bud).
I then scraped the thin layer of bark off this tiny piece of wood exposing the cambium. Then I cut a slice long enough for the piece of scion to fit in the bark of the rootstock. I then put the T cut at the top, and also added the same cross cut at the bottom. I slightly pried the flaps of bark apart on the rootstock and placed the tiny piece of wood into the gap. I then sealed the wound with parafim.
I’ve done some crazy grafts before, that I never figured would work (and they did), so you just never know. It sure would be cool if I actually could successfully graft wood this tiny.
Time will tell I guess, but I actually have a good feeling about this one.
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I’ve done this many times, but not with pieces so small.
Sometimes I do it like a bark graft, or like a T-bud, but I usually cut a little chunk of the rootstock’s bark out so that the bud is sticking through the groove and the bark flaps can be squeezed down, not on top of the bud.
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!!!
Wow! What kind of plant?
Plums mostly, as they are my favorite trees. As long as your hands are steady, it only requires a really sharp thin blade to be successful.
And here I thought I was being original. Guess it just goes to prove, that there’s really nothing new under the sun. 
That’s a great idea, I never thought of that trick, makes total sense. 
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Honestly I’m not sure if any of my small ones actually survived. So it’s encouraging to hear that you did it! I always cut into the wood, maybe that’s a mistake, with it so small the whole cambium on the outside of the wood could be preserved.
As for the sharp knife, I should find my razor (artists knife) from my art class.
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Both dolgo crabs grafted to on mm.111 and dolgo seedling stalled out. i removed suckers from the m.111 for weeks but finally gave up
enterprise is doing well on both mm.111(below) and dolgo rootstock. weird to me how dolgo on dolgo stalled out but enterprise on dolgo didnt.
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I have a seedling out of seeds that I grew out from a Jonagold apple last year. It is about 5ft tall now and about 1/2 inch in diameter. I am planning on grafting an very good apple on the main leader about 3ft up from the base of the tree. I assume since the scion is from a mature tree the scion will fruit in a couple of years. I thought that I read on here that the scion would also cause the rest of the tree to fruit quicker. I am leaving 2 branches below the graft to see what the apples are like on the seedling. If they aren’t any good, I would rather prune the branches off when it is still a young tree. If my information is wrong don’t hesitate to let me know. The one thing that I am concerned about is grafting that high up on the leader.
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There was a discussion about this sometime back, but I can’t find it either. I later found some journal articles dealing with avocado and citrus which showed the rootstock has changed hormones but not that it translated into the rootstock flowering or bearing fruit.
There are lots of experiments showing you can speed up the production of a new seedling. You can graft wood from your seedling onto mature or dwarfing rootstocks. The experiment I saw had them fruiting an average of 1.25 years sooner once grafted. However, the seedlings were taking a lonnnnnggg time to fruit, “11.9% had fruited by their 8th year from seed or earlier… the odd seedling initially fruited in its 5th year from seed and by the 11th year, 82% of all seedlings had borne fruits or flowers.” ( Way, Hastening the Fruiting of Apple Seedlings)
You can girdle or use hormones or bending - but it appears that it doesn’t speed things up all that much. Again, maybe by a year or two. It seems that trees have to pass through some juvenile phase.
Why are you concerned about this? I graft high a lot because I’m avoiding deer. It works fine.
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Thank you for the information. I have grafted some scions off of other seedling to Mature trees so that is probably what I will do. When grafting that high on the central leader and leaving some branches below I had plums starve the grafts while they pushed the original branches. I am happy to know it works so I am going to put a scion on it. Thanks again.
Here’s that goumi graft cleaned up. There’s plenty of contact between the two sides, so I think it will turn out fine.
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I’m really pleased with the way this plum tree is turning out, open center green gage on its third leaf with bluebyrd grafted last spring.
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My first citrus graft. Appears to have taken. Label disappeared, but likely an Owari or Brown Select. Grafted onto Troyer. An experiment.
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This summer, I changed the variety of several vines. The procedure I followed: in februari cut the vines, leaving only about 50 cm of the trunk. On the new shoots dormant scions will be grafted (kept cool at 2 to 5 °C until they are needed. The best period to do this is during bloom. Dependant on the variety this will be somewhere between the end of may and the end of june. This method is called wood-on-green.
Normally I use the whip & tongue graft. However, a lot of the new shoots were to thick to do it this way. That’s why I tried another method, I didn’t see before: I placed dormant budchips on these green shoots. The picture below shows this procedure (the picture shows a green budchip, but the dormant buds were placed the same way).
Most of the buds I placed the way were successfull. Here you can see one of them. Because of the well established root system, the grafts grow very fast.
These buds were grafted end june, picture is taken today. This shoot is now about 1 m. Next year it will already give about 50% of the normal production.
The next picture shows a “normal” whip & tongue graft, In this case, also a dormant (wooden) scion was grafted onto a green shoot. You can see the green shoot is already hardening.
The same graft (picture taken end of july). Note the cut trunk at the left.
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