Drippin' Honey Asian Pear

Thanks for sharing. Seems like given their verticality, you don’t keep many branches. How many should I aim to keep, and aim for traditional 6" spacing?

If I could stay lower in the container, it is probably better. Still best to whack off those existing branches and aim for 36+" container-to-first-branch?

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That graft turned out real nice

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It is the one in the middle. There is another pear on each side. Those are on ohxf333 rootstock. They are magness, korean giant, and lazy j pear on the sides. On 333 those trees are at about 12 -15 feet full grown in clay. They can stay at 10 feet easily if i want. You will want room in your container to handle it. Let it get its height first. It will fruit in 4-6 years. On ohxf87 if you get it taller first, it will likely fruit closer to the 4 years. The wood the fruit sets on is 2 -3 years old. That means this year you want it to gain a lot of height. Thank you for your compliment on the graft. That new tree is on callery so it will be more like 20 feet. Drippin honey are as big as grapefruit if kept thinned out.

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Ok, thanks - that is very helpful. It sounds like I should trim everything below 3’, and let it go vertical. It looks like you did get some spreading on some of the grafted tree’s branches for better crotch angle, so it seems that is an OK thing to do. Based on the full grown tree pics I’ve seen around, seems like only 2-4 of those branches will ultimately be kept (in addition to the leader).

A bit of threadjacking here, since I have the pearmaster :slight_smile: I also have these two Harrow Sweet’s on OHxF87. The one in-ground, I just topped because some sort of blight had attacked it. If keeping these two to similar heights (8-9’ in-ground, 7-8’ in-container), should I also be whacking the stubs below 36", then train to central or modified leader?

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I can’t wait!

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@rossn

Harrow sweet will try to runt out on you and produce fruit too fast. Definitely keep it at as a central leader a while. Some trees around here i prune later than intended.

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@scottfsmith or anyone else… have you found an effective solution to the squirrel problem?

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AKA Clark is lazy.

Keeping a pear tree under 16 feet tall is difficult. It might be possible on dwarf rootstock using heavy yearly pruning. It won’t be easy. I worked years ago for a local farmer. We harvested potatoes from a field that had an 80 foot tall pear tree. No idea what variety, but it was loaded with fruit… all the way up.

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I usually get them under control, see the various squirrel threads here. I am now using three types of traps: tube, Kania, and Squirrelinator. I have a dozen traps and am trapping from March to September.

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@Fusion_power

Have never been accused of being lazy before though it made me smile when you put it that way.

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It was intended as humor. Growing fruit trees and being lazy tend to be mutually exclusive.

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@Fusion_power

Now i’m really smiling bigger thinking of how true that statement is.

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For those with drippin honey, is it completely self-infertile from your experience? It seems like the design is for self-fertilization. That is, the flowers bloom with the stigma in contact with and has pollen from the anthers already.

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@clarkinks does it seem like dripping honey can be pollinated with euro pears? I read generally asian and Euro pears can cross pollinate as long as they’re blooming simultaneously.

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@tubig

There has been no problem on pollination even when i had no other asian pears. European pears work fine.

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@clarkinks how many days from bloom to harvest for dripping honey? What is the biggest piece diameterwise tops?

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@tubig

Drippin Honey have been grapefruit sized for me. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 3/4 - to 1 pound no larger. They bloom in March ripen in August but other factors related to your location and weather come in to play.

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@clarkinks How can you tell when it’s time to harvest dripping honey?

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@tubig

They should be close now. Tilt them up and if they break off in your hand when the stem gets to 45 degrees they are ripe. The sugar content can get very high prior to ripening. If you want them for storage pick them with more green on them. If you want them to be more like a european pear they should be very yellow in color. Many pear thiefs will move in the higher the sugar content goes. They should be ripe for many people now or very soon.

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@clarkinks Do you have photos of how they typically look like when ripe? Do they change color from green?

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