So i collected seed from a beautiful red leafed crabapple down the street. Its done well up here at high elevation for years. What a variety of seedlings. There are two regular apples in my neighbors yard and 3 more named varieties directly across the street.
These first four have red leaves similar to the parent tree. But there are all slightly different in shading.
(Nagami?) Kumquat started from seeds from the store.
Citrus seeds grow way better when you know not to dry them out first. 
Yeah looks nagami to me with the elongated leaf, my other kumquats leaves are more stubby, only the Nagami has that long slender leaf
Nice variety of leaf shapes too. I caught myself thinking how to graft my rainbow apple tree. Do I geaftvfor a vertical or horizontal gradient from green to red? If vertical, red on top or bottom (red apples taste better with more sun)? Random? Green to yellow tree and another blush to red? Does it really matter how the fruit turns out?
I think my Oberländer Himbeerapfel is already shaking at the roots as it is a candidate for grafting over with the seedlings unless it keeps st least 20 apples to harvest this year…
Amelanchier seedlings. I guess in a few weeks I’ll be able to tell if they’re alnifolia or lamarckii - marker turned our to be not quite permanent.
I did everything wrong and put them in sand&peat moss last year and left them outside to get stratified by the elements. Something has been sprouting in that planter for some time and rotting from the root, so I keep picking them out by the cotyledons and transplanting into fresh potting mix.
I decided to wing it after last time when they sprouted in the fridge at the worst possible time, no clean/ non-frozen potting mix around + everything outside was freezing and melting until end of May.
Yes. They look like saskatoons. I suspect mine are lamarckii. The saskatoons have likely sprouted and failed a month ago…
Are you planning to graft onto them? I’ve heard apple pear and quince might be compatible.
No. I want more bushes and have trouble with rooting cuttings. There is no real advantage for me to graft anything onto them. I like my apples and pears vigorou. Even pyrodwarf drives me nuts and I regraft the varieties I can only buy on this. If I have something that is a monster variety, I graft them onto vigorous quince to get normal size. But I’d like my pear trees to stay here for a couple centuries and they do that on pear seedling rootstock. I know of some people who graft medlar onto amelanchier, but again I have plenty of volunteer hawthorn for that.
I’ve heard of using hawthorne but never done it. Not even quite sure what it looks like. Wonder where i grows wild on the west coast? Or in great lakes area?
There are so many sub species it boggles the mind. They are spread around the whole of Nothern hemisphere and particularly good at colonising forest edges and rocks The ones around here like alkaline soils and belong to pioneer species that last very long unless overshadowed completely…
My apple seedlings have taken a 3-week break but they are pushing new leaves again. I guess we just have to accept that a tree is not a tomato. Some other tree seedlings are even worse above ground. I think they are juggling the weather changes and apples sadly also fungal pressure.
About the same. 3 weeks and now some starting again. Apricots too … many of them. A couple though have taken off and outgrown others by inches because they skipped the break.
9 ingas would be quite a problem 
Haha well at least they are putting some nitrogen in the soil, I’ll cross that bridge if I get to it though haha
Yup, there’s always the nitrogen lol. Very cool to see them survive. How cold does it get in your area?
This last winter had a low of 24, and 27 with no full days below freezing. Half a dozen or a dozen frosts I don’t recall. The winter prior had that Christmas freeze in the upper teens though which ruined most of my nagami kumquats as they weren’t ripe yet. It’s hit or miss but I’d say the average low is 20ish
