I saw a 3-4 year old, G-41 apple tree snapped off with a clean break at the graft this week. Apparently our area had a wind storm, but it wasn’t much. I had the same thing happen last year to a G-890 graft. I’m trying G-969 this year. I had 34/35 takes.
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I hate hearing that. I am trying the G890 rootstock for the first time on two trees. I had not heard they snapped off like that so easily. Ugg
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Supposedly they require cleft graft rather than budding. (At least g.41.)
I’m pretty pleased with my g.41 tree. What they say about “yield efficiency” (high ratio of fruit to canopy) is true, as is the precocious characteristic.
It is leaning a little once I removed its stake.
You had darn well better thin it completely and then merely ruthlessly until it grows to a reasonable size. Stunting out would be a huge problem with this tree.
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G41 has known, and published, issues with some varieties. Honeycrisp comes to mind 1st. Graft union weakness is why it is reccomended to stake, support, or trellis G41. All my G969 and G41 are trellised. My G890 i have as free standing trees, with no issues yet.
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Wind usually doesn’t impact my fruit trees much, they’re bordered by mature forest which serves as a windbreak (and blocks more sun than I’d prefer, ahem). Occasionally the wind will “dip” or come from a different direction though, and they’ll get tossed around quite a bit. That happened a few days ago, I had 3 (2 to 3yr old) trees where their stakes came loose or broke. They were bent at a fairly hard angle, basically laying flat on the ground. I stood them back up and re-staked them and assume they’ll be fine. Not the first time this has happened, my staking tends to be a bit hap-hazard (a tree limb, a half-rotten piece of bamboo, etc…). I’m hopeful the staking will be temporary is why I don’t use t-posts and rope/waterhose or similar. I’m only using a 12" to 14" piece of G.41 as an interstem (M-111 beneath) with hopes of both free-standing and dwarf size. Probably related to vigor and other aspects of the cultivar but some of them I’ve never staked at all. They are all still moderately young and not large caliper yet, so most have at least a little bit of staking. I’ve probably had 7 or 8 blow over so far and place a fairly heavy amount of force (harsh bend radius) close to the (top) graft union. So far so good, no graft failures. Most are W&T grafted, sometimes no tongue if the scion was small. 50+ trees mostly all heirloom cultivars.
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Far later than I usually graft (granted, as a novice) and the first time I’ve done any on G-41. I found it to be significantly “harder” than most apple wood. That alone leaves me unsurprised at the amount of failures that would occur at the graft union. The wood was also fairly quick to shard when I was trying to do cleft grafts and readily cut with the pruners with a similar feel as snapping. (i.e. hard at first bite, but quick and clean once started; much like cuting glass.)
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I have no personal experience with the G-41. But I saw the tree and the tag on it, and thought i would make public mention of it. Perhaps it was related to the variety.
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G41 is the only one with evidence of weak graft unions.
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I have keepsake on g41. Was surprised it lived, it arrived with only tiny hairs for roots. Its not been a strong grower at all. It will remain staked for life - glad i did stake it reading about the graft issues.
@Masbustelo
Me too. G-969
It is my first try with that rootstock - but it sounded great for my needs. I don’t hear about it too much, however . . . and I wonder why?
I’ve lost one of my favorite trees to the same problem. Snapped off in a storm. It was a G-41 I believe.
I should have staked it better. I like M-7 very much, except for the suckers.
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I think the big thing to remember here is that the Geneva series was developed for the commercial market. Tall spindle and trellised. These trees, especially the smaller G41, G30, G11 sized trees were developed for small stature and resistance to FB and replant disease. That comes with drawbacks, and one being that the probably need support in most every case. Malling or M rootstocks were developed for size in a traditional, free standing orchard system. Thats not Geneva.
Not knocking any rootstocks here, I have Geneva, Bud and Mallings, but if I’m growing a tree on something, I should probably research it to know support needs. Not properly utilizing a rootstock, then blaming it later for my lack of research isnt the rootstocks fault. JMO
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I only have a half dozen, and mostly just to see what I get with my own eyes, but this is exactly it. I bought my G41 knowing full well that they would be forever staked and that the stakes likely would penetrate deeper than the tree ever goes.
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So, what is the consensus on how to best support G-41? I have all mine on Tree-Mate-O, but wondering who hasn’t had issues and how they may be supporting the trees?
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This is a Wealthy on Bud9.
This is a Winesap on G41.
This is Dabinett on M26.
Each gets as many stakes and wires as it takes to support the tree. Most of the rest of my G41 are on 12.5 Gauge high tensile trellis. 4 wires, one at 2 feet, 4 feet, 6 feet and 8 feet from the ground.
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Does any of your M-7 trees lean? Seems like that is the only rootstock I have that leans. I had one that fell completely over and I had to bring it back upright and prop it up with a wooden stake. The other rootstocks are M111.
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I have a granny smith on m7 and its rhe 1st tree i had to wire up for support. It had a very light crop load, but we got an early snow storm and it tipped right over. After it was supported, it hasnt had any more issues.
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No. But, after losing my first tree to “Not Staking Adequately” . . . I staked them to the heavy metal posts.
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Great idea. Saves headaches later on when they are a lot bigger.