Great thread i have plenty of experience and suggestions. Came up with a method that works well for me most of the time which is garden tape and parafilm over that. Use it on clefts, whip and tonque etc… use the other methods mentioned less frequently since our weather changed in Kansas somewhat. Used pruning seal and grafting wax for years but then we started having warmer springs and i began having grafting fails. The wax or seal melted sonetimes between the scion and rootstock and caused me problems. The method is great but my climate hasn’t been for a few years. This is what im doing now and i use modeling clay if i need it because it does not melt like others but still works. It is more expensive Grafting large Callery and BET pear rootstocks in 2022
When I use wax for cuttings or grafting I’ve been mixing the toilet ring wax. I use about 50/50% toilet and beeswax/parrafin. That hardens the toilet wax but softens the other. That way it won’t flake off super easy but yet will come off.
One tip is to float the wax in a container with hot water. That way you don’t need a large amount. I just fill an old saucepan with water and put the wax in that. Heat it up on the stove. The wax will float and you have a lot more depth to dip it.
It is absolutely amazing stuff for what I do at work. That said, I’d personally avoid it for the chance of petrochemical damage.
Edit to clarify - I am not against the use of petroleum products from an organic growing perspective, but more concerned about actual damage to the graft union as has been documented when using toilet bowl wax for example.
I use parafilm tape and doc farwells for the small stuff and linerless splicing tape, caulk to seal the top gap, and coat with doc farwells for cleft grafting. Used to be able to buy doc farwells by the quart but now it seems to only come by the gallon.