Dax
Thanks for the tour! That’s a nice setup.
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Super, Dax. I love seeing your set ups!
Thanks, guys. I do believe I have nothing else to show after these photographs. I’ve encompassed all that I’ve learned with the following. There’s a reason for whip and tongue and it’s not dangerous at all. If you think it’s dangerous, you’re doing everything wrong. If you simply are not confident, never push your limits.
Best regards, Dax.
Because my wax got too thin I had to reload. I had double dipped it in a mixture that left water instead of wax on the scion so, I added wax and dipped it again knowing I was going to have way too much wax on it but also giving a unique opportunity to show what a candle looks like instead of a scion, truly.
For anyone wondering and those not interested, the reason for the exposed areas of a whip and tongue graft that I left intentionally - that I would call a wedge-cut, is for increased cambium as well as increased callousing area. If you are able to line up the green line of cambium, that’s a big old bonus.
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Great video of your setup 
Some great pics as well.
Watched your video and i had to laugh at the reaction you gave when you found out your cord wasn’t working. We are so alike. Great setup.
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Glad I’m not the only one!
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Great info and helpful information.
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I just cut the end off to length when I have that situation if there isn’t enough material left to redo the cut.
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Murky, try instead flipping the scion 180-degrees to the back side with bark yet and making the tiniest of wedge cuts to ensure your scion comes to a point and not a block. It’s gotta be a point. You can get away with “blocky ends” on pears or apples but not when you’re grafting more difficult hardwoods.
Best regards,
Dax
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What are the white containers the trees are in?
It’s the D60 heavyweight. They had or might still have a few thousand in white for the same price when I bought 400 of them last year.
Dak sent me this related to a different question (Puente rootstock), and he encouraged me to get a Tina knife (ouch, expensive) and to stop using the omega tool to graft. I had decent results on it for cherries and apples, but not apricots, and peaches were around 50% success rate.
After investing a few minutes learning how he does a whip and tongue graft, I made my first attempts. I was not very accurate at aligning the whips and scions, and my tongue cuts were pretty pathetic.
Somehow the success rate was WAY better than I have ever had before. At least 80% so far, and rising every couple of days. The only probable failures were on bad or dry scion. I did make the base more like a chip graft, and I lifted the stock a bit to cover the base.
I was surprised by this. Thank you Dak, for the advice! I always do more than one graft so this year I have 100% of my varieties taking somewhere. I have never had that before.
James
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Two links to keep all my gathered information flowing from one thread to another:
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