Hybrid Persimmons Future Look Great

I don’t know the genetics of Szukis so this is pure speculation. Any persimmon that produces both fruit and pollen stamens most likely uses the same mechanism shown in the article above. This suggests the Y chromosome segment floats around with between 1 and 3 copies in any plant that is monoecious. I’m guessing that a plant with 4 or more copies of the Y chromosome will be strongly biased to produce only male flowers. Similarly, a plant with 0 copies should produce only female flowers.

The part about 2 variants of the Y chromosome is highly suggestive that one of them is partially disabled and/or only effective in the presence of a fully enabled Y chromosome. This leads to a speculation that the Y chromosome present in American persimmon will diverge from the Y chromosome in D. Kaki. I’m guessing the D. Virginiana will have only a single variant of the Y chromosome and that it is the fully enabled version.

From this background, it makes a lot of sense to determine the Y chromosome status of some important known monoecious varieties. I remember reading that Early Golden produces male flowers from time to time. I would speculate that it has 2 copies of the Y chromosome. This suggests a good cross to make would be Early Golden pollen on Taishu female flowers. I’m just using this as an example, not saying that it will be particularly likely to work.

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Here are some JT-02 fruitlets I hand pollinated. They’re over an inch wide now. Hopefully, they’ll hold and I get some seeds.

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Andrew. Remember to save the seeds.

Tony

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There are 4 fruit still holding, 2 pollinated by Cheong Pyong, and 2 pollinated by Nishimura Wase. I wanted both males for different goals in the separate offspring.

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JT-02 crossed with Cheong Pyong should be real hardy. Strong work!

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@Susu
I went out to check my Nikita’s Gift today. All the fruit have dropped. This tree is 7 years old. It has dropped most, if not all, its fruit for the past 4 years.
Fertilizing -fruit drop
Watering - fruit drop
Too much rain - fruit drop
No rain- fruit drop

I don’t really have a “just right” condition for NG where I am. My NG will be gone by next spring.

My JT-2 in pot, grafted in 2020 producing 11 fruit this year. It is a lot less fussy and a lot easier to please.

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What a difference climate makes. And we don’t even know what exactly it is.

The good thing is that You can graft any Asian, American or hybrid to it. Maybe put Jt-02 on it.

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So far JT-02, Kasandra and Nikita’s gift are holding fruit for me this year. It will be interesting to try them side by side.

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Have you tried adding a male pollinator? Sometimes that drastically reduces fruit drop. My Giboshi unpollinated holds 1/5 the crop of a pollinated Giboshi I once had.

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Have you tried not fertilizing and not watering it for a year. That’s what I did. I don’t know if it’s the neglect or something else. But something is working and it’s holding on to 20 something fruit so far. Hopefully will hold to maturity.

Not that easy.

I cannot graft any Asian to it. We are in zone 6a and it can very cold at times.

I also am puzzled by grafting result and grafting incompatibility.
Grafted
Prok. The graft grew and last for 3 years (fruited for two years). It died this year.
Tam Kam - took and grew for two years (flowered last year). Died this year.
Grafted Inchon - did not take
Miss Kim - did not take
Chuchupakka - has survived for a second year now
JT-02 - same as Chuchupakka

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I have not fertilized this tree for 3 years. The soil is decent, not poor. It gets water when it rains.
Last year, it rained too much, mist fruit dropped (only 3 left).
This year, almost no rain. All fruit dropped.
2020, got 10 fruit. Just pure luck, I think.

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The tree shows a decline in vigor. A couple of good size branches just died this year. New shoots are coming up from a lower part of the trunk (but still above the graft union).

My NG is on D. Virginiana.

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Not sure if I have patience to graft a male and wait to see if it’ll help. That will be at least 2 -3 more years.

My tree is on DV too so it cannot be rootstock. I have other trees on DV and some on lotus and all are equally vigorous. I have no pollinators until this year when my Maru started to produce male flowers.

Very strange.

It can, Ramv. We still don’t know much about the compatibility (or not) of persimmon grafting.

When Tam Kam died this spring, I cut the branch off. I saw the dreaded black streak in the wood, sign of incompatibility. I should have taken pictures.

@Barkslip and @SMC_zone6 probably have experienced with persimmon grafting compatibility as well. It is not straight forward like other fruit.

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I haven’t seen anything swollen yet (unions swollen) but I’ve seen scions come in with streaking and the pith has little, tiny, black dots too. So far everything on virginiana has worked for me.

I was told Fuyu is imcompatible to virginiana.

I’ve tried a good 8 or 10 or 12 hybrids now and the only difference is the time they wake up and their prolificness. I found an old email the other day I wrote from my phone to myself stating:

very precocious:
Dr. Kazas
Yates
Sosnovskaja
Pamjat Pasenkova

and I’ve seen a lot of flowers on Gora Roman Kosh and something else I believe that I didn’t take time to document. It’s either Kassandra or Kandy Korn. That I recall.

I’ve also seen Sudden Death Syndrome on grafts I’ve done that I either field planted or they died in their pots.

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What frustrating for me is that the graft grew well or a year, two years and even three years before they did not wake up again.

Losing grafts that grew so well for a year or two was very disappointing. This past winter was relatively mild so it should not be winter kill.

I lost 2 trees grafted to southern DV. they both had the black spots/streaking. Even the rootstock died.

One was a Rojo Brillante and another was a chuchupaka I purchased that was supposedly grafted to a southern DV.

So far I haven’t lost other trees. Knock on wood.

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I lost several more grafts of Prok, Rojo Brillante, H-118, to name a few grafted to persimmon seedlings dug up from my friend’s yard.

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