@mamuang – how many years did it take your KG to fruit? Mine is in its second season and starting to grow at a nice clip! Yumbo!
You may want to try Shinseiki. It normally ripened here in Omaha Z5 around the middle to late August. KG is too late for your Z4.
Tony
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It may flower by year three but should flower by year four if you planted it bear root.
I suggest you bend their branches to speed up flowering.
People don’t bend them as horizontal as I do. I just tend to go over board.
Here’s the close-up look if you could see the branches
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@clarkinks I got my KG on bet last year from burnt ridge. I called and asked specifically for bet otherwise they send you whichever they grab.
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I love KG pear. I grafted 2 last year and 2 more this year. I planned to gave them to both my brothers but only 1 of them wants it. now I have 4 KG total. I am spending too much time thinning. Does anyone has an effective method?
Below are the picture of my asian pears. I gave up on pulling down the branches.
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Mickster,
I hope you have another pear tree that blooms about the same time to cross pollinate with your KG. It needs cross pollination.
Gorgeous tree!
Thank you. I should not have planted my trees this close together. They spread out more than going up.
Your shorter spread out trees makes it easy to take care of and harvest. I always wanted my trees to get tall so the deer wouldn’t destroy them. That makes for a hard tree to spray!
Yes. We have had a few deer but I did not see them last year or this year (yet).
No heavy deer pressure area. More issues with squirrels.
Easier To Pick!
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What do you use to wrap your trunks with? You did a nice job.
If you meant the off white color on the trunk, that is not wrapping. It is my off whot/egg shell trunk paint. I do use making tape wrapping those trunks yesterday. It is the same egg shell color.
I had a problem differentiating the trunks from the masking tape which made smearing Tangle Foot on the tape harder.
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The easiest way is to cut off the flower buds before they open. I use hand pruning shears and do it at the tight cluster stage. That’s when the buds are clustered together about 1-2 weeks before your pictures. Whack off all the buds on half to 90% of the clusters. Or just leave one fruit per cluster on some spurs. You get the idea, whack out most of the flowers while they are easily seen and close together.
KG isn’t as hard to thin as most Asian pears. This method works even better on varieties where there is more flowers and more leaves. On some varieties the fruit soon gets hidden among all the leaves making thinning very tedious.
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Yup. My 20th Century sets almost 10 fruit per cluster. KG sets only about 5-6 per cluster.
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Here is some interesting information about Korean Giant, that I just found https://npgsweb.ars-grin.gov/gringlobal/accessiondetail.aspx?id=1575470, It’s a cross between Chojuro x Cheongsilri.
This one says a cross between Chojuro x Chungsil https://npgsweb.ars-grin.gov/gringlobal/accessiondetail.aspx?id=1436898
PS: It seems like “Chojuro x Chungsil” is what the cross really is.
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Could just be translation issue
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I let my Korean Giant’s stay on the tree a bit too long last year and they lost some of their crunchy texture. The flavor was still very good, but we decided to slice and dehydrate them. Excellent!
Ichiban, Kosui, Hosui, Yoinashi, and Korean Giant have done well for me here in Oregon. I never seem to catch the Chojuro fruit at their best, and Tsu Li likes to abort the fruit at an early stage.
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That may be the most beautiful pear tree I’ve ever seen.
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Pear branches tend to go straight up. I like to bend branches to stimulate early fruiting. In doing so, the tree look fuller and nicer. Thank you for your compliment.
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