Greetings all. I purchased M111 rootstocks from Fedco with the understanding that the diameters as stated in their catalog would be 3/16”-3/8”, so I spent my winter finding local orchards with unique heirloom varieties and cut scions in the range of 3/16”-3/8”.
Yesterday my rootstocks arrived and they are all about 1/8” bigger than their literature described (probably 3/8”-9/16”). I’m a first time grafter, and had practiced whip and tongue, thinking that this rootstock grafting would be the best application for it….I’m not so sure now.
Does anyone have advice for me? I’m frustrated that I put all this time and effort into getting the right size scion wood and now it doesn’t match the rootstock diameter. Will an offset whip and tongue work, or do I use some variation of a cleft graft? I just want strong vigorous trees in the end.
I’d use cleft grafting/V grafting, with that method you only have to line up one side of the scion wood, it’s also an easy grafting method, the root stock that I buy is never exactly the same diameter that the nursery says that it will be, and last year the roots of the pear rootstock were too narrow and short to graft to them, even for a single variety tree with one trunk. I don’t graft the same year anyway since I like to put on more than two varieties, of at least two scionwood per variety.
I understand the frustration, but you’ll be fine as others have stated. Grafting may seem like you need to be insanely precise, but you actually have a fair amount of wiggle room so long as you’re paying attention to the cambium. We’re not doing precision machining here, just wedging some sticks together (you should have seen some of the gappy unions I’ve gotten away with). These are all natural materials and the “product may vary.”
In addition to the above suggestions, you can also line up a W&T on just one side if that’s what you’re most comfortable with. It might not be the “right” way to do it, but it works so long as you make sure to line up the cambium and cover up all the exposed surfaces.
I’ve had pretty good luck with the offset whip and tongue. Just cut the scion diagonal cut first so you know how much to cut off on the rootstock. I really struggle with cleft grafts, but you can do an offset cleft graft too. Just make the downward cut on the rootstock a little closer to the edge.
I’d use a ‘side graft’ preferrably…or a cleft. Prefer cleft if scions are small enough to put one on each side of the cleft and match cambium on one side to one side of each scion.
For a mismatch in size I use a side whip and tongue graft or a cleft graft. For side whip and tongue, make the cut to the scion first, then make a cut to the rootstock that corresponds in shape half the cut on the scion.
Same here. Both M111 and B9 were huge. I did mostly cleft grafts. Not my favorite, but works. I’m starting to clone my own rootstocks. I had some M111 from my own stool beds and they matched my scions perfectly.
i also have some really thick and tough rootstocks this year. I’ve found doing a chip bud goes much faster and easier than trying to cut a W&T.
It takes a little bit of practice though. And on thick stock. Varying the depth of the receiving chip bud slot, even a little. Drastically increases the width of the cambium lines for grafting.
Is a post with 2 good video’s linked on learning to chip bud.
You could practice some. I really like it. Also for it’s ease of grafting with different calipers stock and scion.
It’s funny you said the bit about precision machining. I’ve worked my whole life (I’m almost 50) as a tool and die maker and mechanical engineering. My mindset is always that “thousandth’s” of an inch are crucial, and seeing 1/8” of variation in the diameters of these rootstocks/scions makes me cringe.
Ha! That is pretty funny. I’ve been trying to find parts for old tools lately and I’m quickly learning just how noticable a thousandth of an inch can be when you’re trying to fit two parts together. Fortunately trees can grow to fill in any gaps or smooth over any bumps.
I got about 18% of my rootstocks at 7/16 of an inch…so some of them I’ll pot and bud later probably…excellent roots.4 of them grafted so far. Some at 1/4, and most at 1/8. I prefer the 1/8 actually…mainly because so many scions are smallish…plus the scion is limber and easy to manipulate.
Check out those Z grafts. You have several “chances” to get some contact, and they work well with different sized wood. When I can’t bark graft, I use Z grafts. (And chip buds.)
I still like using 2 scions in cleft of larger rootstocks (provided they fit of course)…each of the scions lines up to one side of the root. Doubles the take rate, and also much improves the healing process of the cut in the rootstock. I remove one of the limbs in a year or so if both take.
Thanks. I’ve not pushed this to the limits…like trying to cleft graft a couple 1/16 inch scions into a tree three inches in diameter! Maybe somebody else can help.
Ideally, I’m using the cleft graft to put a couple 3/16 inch pieces of scion into a 1/4 inch rootstock…something that almost covers all the exposed surface of the benchgrafted rootstock.