I will have to post them here in a couple of days. Thanks for asking. Some are very young. I had two of them mowed down by a drunk driver this May. They were very productive.
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All of my Geneva 969 apples survived a nasty wind storm this Summer. It right-angled my Giombo persimmon and nearly uprooted one of my Porterâs Perfection on G 969 that I planted bare-root last year. None of my apples were supported, but the one Porterâs Perfection is supported now. The wind was whipping them around so violently that I thought for sure that they would all be lost.
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I have whip and tongue grafted 8 this spring on G890. The graft unions look all well healed. Cummins recommend staking the G890 grafted trees with sturdy T-posts, and three attachment points, for the first 5 or more years. I wonder if people are doing this and if it makes a difference? Did anybody have a mature tree snap on the union?
I am not completely sure but I thought I remembered someone stating their more mature G890 (not a newly planted tree)broke off at the union after a storm. Perhaps I am mistaken about this.
I have two I bought just to try out because they did not have the rootstock I actually wanted and did want to wait yet another year to get the apple variety in the ground. We will see but I know I am going to stake these two for at least 3-4 years.
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Stupid question from the new fruit grower- when you stake with a T post, do you just leave it there forever because ripping it out would cause too much damage to the roots? When people talk about removing stakes, are those just wooden?
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I have asked myself the same. I was also worried chopping off some roots, when putting the post in (I think Cummins says to put the T post 6 inches away from the trunk), so I put mine in at time of planting, when I could see where the roots were. Main reason I tried G890 is that I have tons of issues with burr knots on MM111 in northern FL. G890 is supposed to be less prone to this.
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I have 43 trees in the orchard on G.890. I havenât staked any of them for the purpose of supporting the graft union, but I have staked some of them, as needed, to straighten them. I also removed 4-5 trees this spring for fire blight issues, but theyâll be replaced next spring on the same root stock.
@Eme I have a couple methods for staking trees, one with a stake close to the trunk and one with the stake away from the trunk. Staking away from the trunk and securing with Arbortie may require more than one stake. Staking close to the trunk and tieing at multiple points should only require one stake. I havenât noted any issues with the plate on the T-Post causing issues with the roots. I had several B.118 trees that needed temporary staking to keep them upright until they got established. I noted no issues with disturbing the roots when pulling the stakes (I only use T-Posts). To miniminze severed roots you can set the flange on the T-Post so itâs running toward the center of the trunk (like the hands of a clock) parallel to the outward growth of the roots.
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