Peaches and pests

The Japanese beetle are not deterred by peach fuzz, they eat my peaches

Can you acidify the Captan soln with vinegar?

You can use vinegar to the lower the pH of your spray water. It will take a larger volume of vinegar to do this than with citric acid. You will want to add the vinegar to the water first, mix, then check the pH with pH paper and then add the Captan. Don’t add the Captan first and adjust the pH.

For my local city water I can add 1/4 teaspoon of citric acid to 2 gallons of water and bring the pH down into the 5-6 range. The amount of vinegar or citric acid needed will vary depending on the starting pH of your water source.

I found Japanese beetles on my peaches too. It also eats my jujube. What pesticides I can use at this stage, about two weeks to harvest?

@wardog … I am in southern TN… and will not spray chemicals on my food either…

As you can see from most of the advice you are getting here… that seems to be the only way to get clean peaches… well they may look clean but if the fruit has been sprayed repeatedly with chemicals… is it really clean ???

I have my doubts on that… which is why I do not spray chemicals on my food. It is a decision that each grower has to make. Some choose not to spray… and others fight that battle every year over and over…

I have had the most success with no spray peaches… with my earliest ripening variety. Early elberta… mine ripens fruit mid june… and I actually get some nice clean fruit from it. Notice I said some… unfortunately many of them have oriential fruit moth larvae and the later ripening ones did suffer from brown rot this year. Out of 200 or more peaches… I got something like 30 or 40 clean usable fruit.

My other peach tree ripens in early July and the BR wiped out 300 or more peaches from it. I might have found 10 usable peaches on it. So sad.

If you are determined to grow no spray peaches… I think you might have a little better luck with a early ripening variety. I have.

Good luck to you.

TNHunter

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4 days since I cleaned up trees. Brutal :weary:

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I may try some elberta trees. And thin out the more brown rot susceptible seedling trees I have. I think I saw some elberta trees at Lowe’s or stark bro

@TN-Apple … note… thar my elberta is a early elberta… got it from starks around 2002.

It ripens peaches early in TN… mid June.

I think a regular elberta may be more of a mid season tree… like red haven … but not sure of that.

I think the best bet for no or low spray peaches might be a variety that is very resistent to brown rot… and in the early ripe ing group.

TNHunter

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I was looking at the three “better brown rot” peaches. (elberta, baby gold 5, and glohaven)

Elberta is listed as a September ripening. Other two are August. I may order one of each and see how they do

Once the rot starts up in there, the fruit is doomed

You are in TN. Check out Vaughn nursery. They have agood reputation with ton of peaches at very reasonable price.

https://vaughnnursery.com/peach/

I would buy fron them instead of a big box store. You can ask if they would recommend any varieties.

Brown rot resistant does not offer much help if your weather is conducive to brown rot fungus to thrive.

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Thanks for the info, everyone. I guess i have to decide how much time I want to spend on spraying. Life is busy, so I don’t really have time for it right now. But maybe in a year or 2.

So even with my poor spraying I still get a few. A more thorough spray schedule may improve things

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What a shame to have peaches looking like that. A lot of ruined fruit for the year.

Certainly true. Many years I can clearly identify plums that have been entered because they are always the first to ripen. I’m not much an expert on wormy peaches because in my S NY region, peaches are easy to defend- two well timed insecticide sprays in spring usually provide insect free peaches. One season Indian Cling or Blood was infested with OFM, but it involved almost every peach. It was the only variety affected, even among my latest ripening.

Hi Guys.
Good grief what Monilia attacks on all those peach trees.
I give you some advice, since I see that most of you use Captan as a fungicide and it is not the most suitable for the fungus “Monilinia spp” which is the fungus that causes the Monilia Laxa disease of the peach tree, or as you call it " Brown rot "

I will start by saying that there are two very different fighting methods.

  • Preventive (mandatory winter treatment in fruit trees for all hobbyist fruit orchards).

  • Curative and eradicating, which is carried out when the first symptoms of the disease appear, if we have not carried out the winter preventive treatment, and here we must use very specific fungicides for this fungus, and that have curative and eradicating properties

I think there is a lot of information regarding the realization of the preventive winter treatment, but even so I will emphasize it, since if you want healthy crops this treatment is mandatory, since you will start the beginning of the fruit season without fungal problems, or insect larvae.

I am going to translate the winter treatment that I put for my colleagues in the Spanish Infojardin forum

Winter treatment:

The winter treatment is aimed at the prevention of cryptogamic diseases and the elimination of the eggs deposited by pests so that the fruit trees start the new campaign as healthy as possible and using the most ecological products possible.

There are three “INITIALLY” treatments, and it is recommended to do them after frost.
I say “INITIALLY”, because the first year three applications are made, and in subsequent years, it is reduced to two applications, and in areas with low incidence even only one treatment per winter will be necessary.

This will be seen by you, depending on the needs of your orchards.

Products for winter treatment:

  • Copper oxychloride in powder to 50% (400 grams / hectoliter)
  • Liquid paraffin oil to 83% (1 liter / hectoliter)
  • Insecticide with ovicidal properties (I recommend Acetamiprid 20%) and its dose is 35 grams of insecticide per hectoliter of water

This for large orchards where you do the treatment with a fumigation wheelbarrow of 100 liters or more.

For small orchards where you do the treatment with a 10-liter fumigation backpack, this would be the dose of the products:

  • Copper oxychloride in powder to 50% (would be 40 grams for a backpack of 10 liters of water)
  • Liquid paraffin oil to 83% (would be 100 cc / ml for a backpack of 10 liters of water)
  • Acetamiprid 20% (3.5 grams for a backpack of 10 liters of water)

When and how to perform the treatments:
The application is recommended to start after the winter frosts (paraffin oil forms a layer that kills by suffocation, if there are frosts this layer cracks and the product loses effectiveness).
Logically they are done on clear days without wind

  • First treatment (let’s say the end of February)
  • Second treatment 15 days after the application of the first
  • Third treatment “AND MORE IMPORTANT”, is performed in a pink button state.

This is the pink button state

boton rosa

As I said, the first year it is advisable to do all three treatments, in later years two or even just one treatment in a pink button state is enough.

Now we are going to talk about curative and eradicating treatments, when winter treatment has not been carried out, and very specific fungicides have to be used:
As the European Union is very restrictive with fungicides, currently of the authorized products these are the best.
I’m talking about active principles, and each of these products is marketed under various trademarks.

They are specific for the fungus Monilina spp (Brown rot of the peach), and have healing and eradicating properties

  • Fempirazamine 50% (I do not give you doses because you can find it in granulated powder or liquid suspension format, so it is better to follow the dosage of each manufacturer)

  • Fludioxonil 23% (I do not give you doses because you can find it in granulated powder or liquid suspension format, so it is better to follow the dosage of each manufacturer)

  • Cyproconazole 10% (I do not give you doses because you can find it in granulated powder or liquid suspension format, so it is better to follow the dosage of each manufacturer)

  • Chlorthalonil 50% (I do not give you doses because you can find it in granulated powder or liquid suspension format, so it is better to follow the dosage of each manufacturer)

The fungicide Captan, and his brother Tiram only have preventive action against this fungus, for this reason all of you , not obtain good results.

The three fungicides that I have mentioned are really effective against monilia of the peach (especially Fludioxonil 23% and Fempirazamine 50% ), but please follow my advice and do a good winter treatment and you will see how you notice a difference as the night to day.

I give you the document of Prolectus , the new anti-Monilia fungicide (Anti-Brown rot of peach).
Its active principle is Fempirazamine 50%, it is marketed under the name Prolectus and is from the manufacturer Kenogard.
This product is a revolution against the Brown rot of stone fruits.

Prolectus

Regards
Jose

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How many inches of rain a month do you get during the growing season?

I don’t believe the fungicides you mention are labeled for brown rot control in the U.S. The best chemical for it available here, to my knowledge, is fenbuconazole or Indar. The problem for home growers is that it is only packaged in a very large quantity for home use. Sure Captan is only a preventative but it helps reduce the chance of resistance development. A home grower can also spray after every heavy rain if it is the only material they are using.

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Hi Alan.
INDAR is the trademark of the active ingredient Fembuconazole, manufactured in the United States by Dow AgroSciences USA

It has a little action against the fungus Monilia spp, but in peach and nectarine trees its most indicated field of action is botrytis (caused by the fungus Botrytis Cinerea).

It has preventive and curative (non-eradicating) properties.

It is not the most suitable against the Brown Rot in peach tree.

It really is a " pain " that in the United States, the amateurs do not have adequate fungicides available (it makes me very angry and sad).

My region is not very humid during the summer, but for example in the Extremadura region where the fungicide Prolectus is used with great success against Brown Rot, it is very effective, so in your country it should give very good results.

I am truly devastated by the enormous problems you have with fungal diseases.

Regards
Jose

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Alan, my town is relatively small (24 thousand inhabitants) and it is an eminently agricultural population, there is little industry and a lot of agriculture.
We have several stores dedicated to phytosanitary products for the field, which is where professional farmers buy, but since there are so many people who have their small family orchard (of vegetables or fruit trees).
When the people of my town have problems with a plague or a disease they carry some leaves or a fruit of the affected plant, the engineer agronomist of the store identifies the problem, tells the clerk the appropriate products and depending on the backpack or the fumigation wheelbarrow that are going to use , the store has very small, empty and sterile containers, so that they measure the quantities of phytosanitary products of the professional bottle and put in the small bottle the appropriate amount on it to carry out the treatments.

And my little town is a shitty town lost in the ass of Spain.

That you have this situation in the United States, it really saddens me.

Regards
Jose

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Here in the northeastern U.S. our nemesis is Monilinia fructicola and when we speak of brown rot attacking stone fruit, that is the fungus we are talking about. I believe that is generally the case in the U.S.

Current research here suggests that unless it has developed resistance to it, the most affective fungicide against what we call brown rot is Indar.

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Since we are talking about Monilinia, here’s the detail.

Monilinia (brown rot of stone fruit) - Bugwoodwiki.

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